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02-01-2014, 11:01 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by jhux1972 Quote
Nice pic of the pup! I'd have about 4 cameras on hand and 4 on pre-order if I had the $! Actually I haven't bought a camera since my Sony DSC-H1 bridge camera in 2006 but when I pulled it out recently to take some Senior pictures of my son I knew it was time for an upgrade. Not that it didn't do an OK job, but when I did an impromptu shoot with my girls I really found myself wanting more performance. Plus my sister's wedding is coming up and I want to try my hand at getting some good shots which is the reason for the iso inquiries.
Here are some keepers I got with my old Sony:
CottonMill Edited - a set on Flickr
Great framing, Flat colors. (sorry for being blunt)

02-01-2014, 11:10 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Corto-PA Quote
Great framing, Flat colors. (sorry for being blunt)
Thanks. And agreed. I can deal with blunt
02-01-2014, 11:16 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Corto-PA Quote
Great framing, Flat colors. (sorry for being blunt)
Ok, since I've not got a clue about PP. Can't you tweak colors in software?
02-01-2014, 11:17 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by jhux1972 Quote
I'd like to think that the test shots they did with the K3 are slightly out of focus or the lens they used is a dud? Or is the fuji actually that incredible at high iso? Check out the 2 links and especially look at the little ELSEVIER logo at the top of the red Photoshop CS2 For Photographers book.
I downloaded the ISO 6400 RAW samples you mentioned. The best I can tell from the EXIF, the Pentax photos were taken with the DA18-55 kit lens. The Fuji photos definitely were taken with the 18-55/2.8-4 OIS lens. The Fuji lens is much better than Pentax kit lens. For goodness sake, it's a $700 lens! The Pentax is closer to a $100 lens (technically less, in it's current kit form). While the Pentax is better than most other competitor's kit lenses, it's no match for the best 18-55 lens I've ever seen.

If you're only going to use the lens that comes with the camera, the Fuji X-E2 (or even X-E1) will give you much better results, because Fuji's the only consumer-priced camera company that gives you the proper balance from the start (that is, the lens should usually cost roughly as much or more than the camera body).

If you go with Pentax, you need to look at the DA18-135 WR as the minimum starting point for the lens. You probably want to go better eventually, but pairing it with a K-50 or K-5 IIs is a reasonable place to start.


Last edited by DSims; 02-01-2014 at 11:30 PM.
02-01-2014, 11:27 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by dansamy Quote
Ok, since I've not got a clue about PP. Can't you tweak colors in software?
We all do it.

I suggest you google some, As I could otherwise talk about it for a year.

But...What PP software do you use?
02-01-2014, 11:44 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSims Quote
I downloaded the ISO 6400 RAW samples you mentioned. The best I can tell from the EXIF, the Pentax photos were taken with the DA18-55 kit lens. The Fuji photos definitely were taken with the 18-55/2.8-4 OIS lens. The Fuji lens is much better than Pentax kit lens. For goodness sake, it's a $700 lens! The Pentax is closer to a $100 lens (technically less, in it's current kit form). While the Pentax is better than most other competitor's kit lenses, it's no match for the best 18-55 lens I've ever seen.

If you're only going to use the lens that comes with the camera, the Fuji X-E2 (or even X-E1) will give you much better results, because Fuji's the only consumer-priced camera company that gives you the proper balance from the start (that is, the lens should usually cost roughly as much or more than the camera body).

If you go with Pentax, you need to look at the DA18-135 WR as the minimum starting point for the lens. You probably want to go better eventually, but pairing it with a K-50 or K-5 IIs is a reasonable place to start.
Yep I just downloaded it and opened it in Photoshop. It's showing the lens is the 18-135 and it was shot at 18mm.
02-01-2014, 11:45 PM   #22
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Honestly, at this point, I'm not really. I have downloaded the trial of LR5 & I'm trying to like it. I have the Pentax one. I have Gimp. I bought PSE, but I haven't installed it yet. My problem is, since I don't know much about these programs, I want a "simple" mode. One where the program asks me what I want to do to the picture and makes guided editing suggestions. Training wheels if you please.
02-02-2014, 12:02 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by dansamy Quote
Honestly, at this point, I'm not really. I have downloaded the trial of LR5 & I'm trying to like it. I have the Pentax one. I have Gimp. I bought PSE, but I haven't installed it yet. My problem is, since I don't know much about these programs, I want a "simple" mode. One where the program asks me what I want to do to the picture and makes guided editing suggestions. Training wheels if you please.
Download Capture One Pro (60 day trial) and try it.

Here's why I recommend it: Besides being (arguably) the top image editor, It has high quality camera profiles. And you can start right off without worrying about setting up a library. Just browse to the folder with the files in it.

Then you go to the Adjustments menu and select Auto Adjust. You have a good image to start with, and you can play with it from there.

Of course you'll still want to go through a normal learning process later, but you can get good results right away. I think it's the best product out there for most image editing (but neither it nor anything else replaces Photoshop for the most elaborate work).

02-02-2014, 12:11 AM   #24
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If you looking at noise at ISO 6400+, the lens doesn't make a difference.
02-02-2014, 12:18 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSims Quote
(but neither it nor anything else replaces Photoshop for the most elaborate work).
I think that's part of my problem. I don't WANT to do elaborate work. A couple quick and simple buttons to say adjust this. Help fix red eye. And be done with it.
02-02-2014, 12:51 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by dansamy Quote
I think that's part of my problem. I don't WANT to do elaborate work. A couple quick and simple buttons to say adjust this. Help fix red eye. And be done with it.
That's what I figured. It may be a little harder than the ideal, but you can come close.

The point with Capture One is you can just do the simplest adjustments, and if you're happy with it, save it and be done. That's why I originally chose it over Lightroom - you don't have to fine tune it just to get results as good or better than the original JPEG from the camera.


Any time you spend editing an image should go toward improving it, not simply getting it back to par!
02-02-2014, 04:14 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by dansamy Quote
Honestly, at this point, I'm not really. I have downloaded the trial of LR5 & I'm trying to like it. I have the Pentax one. I have Gimp. I bought PSE, but I haven't installed it yet. My problem is, since I don't know much about these programs, I want a "simple" mode. One where the program asks me what I want to do to the picture and makes guided editing suggestions. Training wheels if you please.
The big thing with lightroom is that you need to have "presets" that you like. If you have some, then you can get decent results with one or two clicks. I do recommend Scott Kelby's lightroom book for a pretty easy way to learn features that are in the program. Same actually with elements, although I only use elements if I need to do a big clone job.
02-02-2014, 04:20 AM   #28
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Somebody else made a really good point that I'm gonna try. I'm gonna start by editing the camera's jpeg files. And after I've learned more, move on to the RAW files.
02-02-2014, 07:09 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by dansamy Quote
Somebody else made a really good point that I'm gonna try. I'm gonna start by editing the camera's jpeg files. And after I've learned more, move on to the RAW files.

Is this advisable? There's more to work with using the RAW file. JPEGs are already altered, plus you're more likely to introduce JPEG artifacts. Working with RAW from the start seems like better advice.
02-02-2014, 07:11 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by EssJayEff Quote
Is this advisable? There's more to work with using the RAW file. JPEGs are already altered, plus you're more likely to introduce JPEG artifacts. Working with RAW from the start seems like better advice.
I agree, leave the JPG alone. Edit the RAW, use the camera JPG to compare your work as you learn. You will soon see the benefit of working with RAW.
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