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03-13-2014, 10:25 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rudy Quote
Center point spot AF only
First frame AF C - Focus Priority
Action AF C Cont - Focus Priority
Hold AF Status - 3 medium
If you are using Centre-point Spot AF, I think the "Hold AF Status" setting is irrelevant , as no subject tracking (moving the focus point from one AF point to another to maintain the subject focus-lock) is happening.

Dan.

03-14-2014, 12:19 AM   #17
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Agreed, Dan. My reading of the manual is that for tracking you need one of the SEL (L,M,H) AF modes and AFC enabled.

Jack
03-14-2014, 07:17 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
If you are using Centre-point Spot AF, I think the "Hold AF Status" setting is irrelevant , as no subject tracking (moving the focus point from one AF point to another to maintain the subject focus-lock) is happening.

Dan.
Not certain. It seems to hold focus on that distance if the subject strays off the center point.
03-14-2014, 02:11 PM - 1 Like   #19
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Manual focus

RAW

03-15-2014, 09:48 AM   #20
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Yesterday was the first day i tried to track with the K3. I was shooting seagulls on a windy day and some obstructions in the area like a building.

I was using the DA 300 lens, which was kind of ridiculous for the area :-) but hey, just trying stuff.

I seemed to have the most luck with:

9-point selected
AF C
Focus priority on c16 and c17
Focus Hold on medium (not sure this is best for reasons i'll explain)

Had a problem where if i initiated half-shutter focus with the lens blurred - it would stay blurred. As if the focus hold had identified blur as the subject :-)

So had to focus on something in the medium distance area (da-300) and then move it onto a bird once it was semi in focus.

I was impressed on a coupla occasions when the 9 points found a gull and stayed on the gull with bouncing focus indicators as i swung with its flight pattern.

Am wondering if the processing power is the limiting factor in tracking, in which case maybe i should shut down anything not needed for tracking - like lens corrections - etc Any thoughts on this?

In any case, an impressive camera.
03-16-2014, 09:06 AM   #21
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May I add a question?

I've used this configuration with my K-5 and cannot figure out how to set it up on the K-3 - it is even possible?

K-5, Button Customization:
- AF Button: Enable AF
- Shutter Button Half Press: Off (Live View only)

With these settings, I can use the shutter to focus when using the viewfinder, whereas in Live View, I only focus using the AF button and it won't try to refocus whenever I press the shutter button to take a picture.

(As I use Live View mainly with a tripod, I want to focus once and then keep the camera from refocussing every the time I take a picture. Currently, I have to turn off the AF for this every time after focussing, then re-enable AF if I need to re-focus, which is a bit of a pain. Someone else suggested to use one of the User modes for this, but that's also awkward. I much more prefer the permanent and ever-present setting I had with the K-5)

Can I achieve the same on the K-3?

Last edited by tempelorg; 03-16-2014 at 09:12 AM.
03-16-2014, 12:10 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by tempelorg Quote
May I add a question?

I've used this configuration with my K-5 and cannot figure out how to set it up on the K-3 - it is even possible?

K-5, Button Customization:
- AF Button: Enable AF
- Shutter Button Half Press: Off (Live View only)

With these settings, I can use the shutter to focus when using the viewfinder, whereas in Live View, I only focus using the AF button and it won't try to refocus whenever I press the shutter button to take a picture.

(As I use Live View mainly with a tripod, I want to focus once and then keep the camera from refocussing every the time I take a picture. Currently, I have to turn off the AF for this every time after focussing, then re-enable AF if I need to re-focus, which is a bit of a pain. Someone else suggested to use one of the User modes for this, but that's also awkward. I much more prefer the permanent and ever-present setting I had with the K-5)

Can I achieve the same on the K-3?
In the camera 4 menu, you can save up to 3 USER modes and give them names. You might be able to save these different settings in that way, but i haven't tried your choices - you could call one user mode "Live View" for example.
03-16-2014, 02:34 PM   #23
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Phil, as I wrote (and you even quoted it): "Someone else suggested to use one of the User modes for this, but that's also awkward.". So no, that option is exactly what I have already considered and don't want to use.

03-16-2014, 02:51 PM   #24
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Using AFC. Alternate between spot & 9 point, probably go back to spot more often than not. Using the rear AF button, as per some one elses recommendation on this forum....has made a significant difference with the shutter button half press dis-abled.

One word of warning though ( & appreciate people don't like airing their mistakes ....but I own it)....when shooting other things that are not as fast moving just remember that you have disabled the half press.
03-16-2014, 08:16 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by tempelorg Quote
May I add a question?

I've used this configuration with my K-5 and cannot figure out how to set it up on the K-3 - it is even possible?

K-5, Button Customization:
- AF Button: Enable AF
- Shutter Button Half Press: Off (Live View only)

With these settings, I can use the shutter to focus when using the viewfinder, whereas in Live View, I only focus using the AF button and it won't try to refocus whenever I press the shutter button to take a picture.

(As I use Live View mainly with a tripod, I want to focus once and then keep the camera from refocussing every the time I take a picture. Currently, I have to turn off the AF for this every time after focussing, then re-enable AF if I need to re-focus, which is a bit of a pain. Someone else suggested to use one of the User modes for this, but that's also awkward. I much more prefer the permanent and ever-present setting I had with the K-5)

Can I achieve the same on the K-3?
Don't think so. The button setting works for all modes.
06-19-2014, 09:22 AM - 1 Like   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by RedBoomer Quote
Thanks for starting the thread jpzk - I am most interested in learning how others are using the K3 AF settings.

I have used my trusty K5 over the past few years to shoot my kids playing junior basketball and while I have managed to get 100's of treasured shots but there have been many hundreds more that have been trashed due to focus not being right (or close to right). The K3 promised a significant upgrade in AF capability and, in summary, I am very pleased to find a big increase in "in-focus" shots. How much better? Subjectively, I guess that with my K5 (& DA*50-135mm) I would get about 25-50% acceptable focus whereas the K3 produces 75%+ acceptable and about half of these really sharp. The other noticeable improvement is that the "18. AF Hold status" also works a treat at basketball producing more potential "keepers".

With IQ, I initially thought the images were a lot grainier but I now think it is not so bad as I am cropping more heavily than previously and bringing out more grain. So probably there is a bit more noise than the K5. Overall though I am getting many more "keepers" and for my shooting the K3 is a definite step-up in technology over the K5.

I couldn't say if the DA*50-135 focusses more quickly on the K3 than the K5 - there are too many other AF variables that have also changed moving to the K3. The K3 tracking has no problem locking onto a player running towards the camera and holding the focus for the length of the court (and also having other players & the ref passing between the camera and the subject and keeping focus!). I read many comments on the forums that the DA*50-135 is the slowest focussing Pentax lens and not recommended for action/sports but I have found it performs quite well!!?? I purchased it specifically for basketball because it is F2.8 (basketball is fast action in usually poorly lit stadiums) and the zoom range ideal for sideline shooting (most shots I take would be around 70mm). I suspect that the long focus travel between 1m -infinity is slow but within the range it is very quick, ie if you are near to focus at the start it is very quick to lock on and can easily follow a player running full speed towards you. I think the inability of the K5 to track well has not helped the reputation of this lens. There are probably other lenses that are quicker but my view is that 50-135 can do a good job.

I photographed 7 matches at the Dandenong/Eltham junior basketball tournament over the Australia Day long weekend in January (this tournament is purportedly the worlds largest junior basketball tournament with over 1100 teams playing more than 7000 matches over the weekend!). I took about 1700 shots over the weekend and as my initial AF settings seemed to be working well, I did not change them much over the weekend.

My settings and comments are:
Exposure program - I use TAv - control the shutter and aperture to minimise the ISO - there is never too much light shooting basketball!
Aperture - F2.8 mostly to keep ISO as low as possible (increased to F3.5 if light was better but to be honest, with this lens I do not notice any difference in IQ)
Shutter - the boys are 15/16 years old and move pretty fast so 1/320 is a minimum, 1/250 works but you can expect some motion blur on hands & the ball
AFC
Use the AF back button
16. 1st Frame=3, in-focus priority (I think it is better to get the focus right at the start of the sequence and if it focuses on the wrong subject then you have the chance to repress the AF button/shutter)
17. Action in AFC = 1, Focus priority
18. Hold status = 3, Medium. This works really well - a major improvement in stopping the camera re-focussing on the wrong subject. I had a number of instances where the referee passes between the player and camera, obliterating 25% of the frame but the player remains in focus!
Expanded area Sel 3, with the initial focus point in the centre. This seemed to be working and I did not really try other settings. Maybe Sel 2 is worth a try??
Continuous shooting - High
All taken with firmware1.01 - v1.02 has reportedly further improved the AFC.

My general technique is to:
Target the player's chest (in portrait and showing feet, head, hands and usually the ring)
Hit the AF button and hold, the camera acknowledges focus point in the viewfinder (and ping).
Follow/track the player keeping the focus area centred in the viewfinder and take the shots when you think they will be best.
Repress AF is focus point is lost.
Crop image later to recompose.

Some examples from the tournament are posted below. All taken with K3 & DA*50-135F2.8 and have been PP'd in LR5 - cropping, exposure adjust, sharpening and NR.
I have included the first two to show the cropability of the images - the crop is about 100%
The last image shows a player running towards the camera - the focus is maintained through the sequence and this was the best composed shot of the 6 taken

Sorry to necro this thread, I just wanted to say this reply (and all of the others) have been amazingly helpful!
06-20-2014, 06:23 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by zode1 Quote
Sorry to necro this thread, I just wanted to say this reply (and all of the others) have been amazingly helpful!
That was the idea about starting this thread: getting helpful information !

JP
06-21-2014, 02:11 AM   #28
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I'll also be under utilising the features until I read the manual! I am currently spot focus and back button focusing but will be reading the manual shortly to make sure I'm getting the most of my K3.
12-04-2014, 11:12 PM   #29
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It's a very usefull thread. Thank you all! I will try some of these settings in my camera too
01-07-2015, 11:52 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by ai.exe Quote
It's a very usefull thread. Thank you all! I will try some of these settings in my camera too
Concur. Very useful. Picked up a K3 a few months ago and still trying to figure out the best focus settings for subject movement. Thanks
Tom
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