Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
08-15-2014, 11:38 AM   #31
Site Supporter
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 27,445
QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
Maybe you should try Auto mode? Or Instagram?
Now that is just plain mean...


Steve

08-15-2014, 12:34 PM   #32
Veteran Member
kkoether's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huber Heights, OH, USA
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 576
QuoteOriginally posted by Khoff2 Quote
After a bit of testing, it looks like menu C.18 works as follows:
1: off = continuous AF
2: low = AF will hold focus for .5 sec, then will AF again
3: med = AF will hold focus for 1 sec, then will AF again
4: high = AF will hold focus for 1.5 sec, then AF again

---------- Post added 08-15-14 at 12:43 PM ----------



On second try, i got completely different results. Now I'm confused again

As long as off is continuous AF that's all that matters to me. Boats moving 100+ MPH don't need a focus hold.
08-15-2014, 01:12 PM   #33
Pentaxian




Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Nevada, USA
Posts: 485
QuoteOriginally posted by Khoff2 Quote
After a bit of testing, it looks like menu C.18 works as follows:
1: off = continuous AF
2: low = AF will hold focus for .5 sec, then will AF again
3: med = AF will hold focus for 1 sec, then will AF again
4: high = AF will hold focus for 1.5 sec, then AF again

---------- Post added 08-15-14 at 12:43 PM ----------



On second try, i got completely different results. Now I'm confused again
There is some additional detail on how the hold algorithm behaves in other posts here on PF. If I recall correctly, the hold time for each setting is not fixed, but depends on how long focus has been maintained before it's lost as well.

I think it was user DOSDAN who gave a comprehensive report of his findings. Maybe in the K-3 for sports thread.
08-15-2014, 02:28 PM   #34
Forum Member
Khoff2's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 84
Original Poster
"Maybe you should try Auto mode? Or Instagram? Just one button. I mean, we all know that photography depends completely on the gear and has nothing at all to do with experience and skill. And Instagram photos are always so nice and sharp, with good saturation. I mean, why would anyone even bother with complicated cameras"

I deal with huge egos everyday in my occupation, but some of these photographers are off the charts. What an a******!

08-15-2014, 02:51 PM   #35
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Ohio (formerly SF Bay Area)
Posts: 1,491
QuoteOriginally posted by kkoether Quote
As long as off is continuous AF that's all that matters to me. Boats moving 100+ MPH don't need a focus hold.
You might consider otherwise if you ever have to pan past an obstruction -- like a pole -- on the shoreline. Without a "hold" setting activated the camera will try to re-focus on something like that as you go by, even briefly.
08-15-2014, 03:37 PM   #36
Veteran Member
kkoether's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huber Heights, OH, USA
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 576
QuoteOriginally posted by Quicksand Quote
You might consider otherwise if you ever have to pan past an obstruction -- like a pole -- on the shoreline. Without a "hold" setting activated the camera will try to re-focus on something like that as you go by, even briefly.

That's the nice thing about pit area access and knowing people. I usually have water side access. A few weeks back I was sitting on a ledge on the shoreline with my feet in the water. I actually liked the perspective I got from that angle. May try it again.


08-15-2014, 04:00 PM   #37
Site Supporter
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 27,445
QuoteOriginally posted by Khoff2 Quote
I deal with huge egos everyday in my occupation, but some of these photographers are off the charts.
It comes with the territory to a certain extent. We are all experts, after all. Some of us have even been pointing a camera at something for 4-5 decades! That being said, I would characterize the comments on this thread overall as being generally constructive and helpful with some mild chiding thrown in regarding regarding reasonable expectations and standard photographic technique.

I am glad that you found the problem with your configuration and that the community in general was able to chew on the matter for a bit. I learned something anyway. I don't often use AF-C and was puzzled as to the best way to set up tracking. Despite using only the default settings, I have been fairly amazed at the K-3's ability to manage and track complex motion. I just wish that Ricoh would publish an extension to the user guide or even better something similar to the white papers that Canon has made available to their user base.

In regards to your runaway mirror problem, if it were me I would negotiate an exchange with the shop where you bought the camera before any more time elapses. From all reports, the fix for this issue involves sending the camera in for warranty service. You are best to simply exchange the camera with the dealer and let them send the thing back to Ricoh as defective.


Steve
08-15-2014, 04:36 PM   #38
Pentaxian
Na Horuk's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Slovenia, probably
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 10,864
QuoteOriginally posted by Khoff2 Quote
I deal with huge egos everyday in my occupation, but some of these photographers are off the charts. What an a******!
Oh come on
Its just that we get threads like this often. People often expect perfect results with their brand new gear, but there is always a learning curve. When the K-3 came out, lots of people complained about its quality. Now they take great photos with it.
But to answer the questions. Firmware should be updated, as the latest firmware is usually the best and most stable and can fix small bugs that might affect WB and AF. We don't know what exactly the firmware update does, apart from what Pentax says in the official release. There might be silent fixes, but its difficult to confirm them
Do Sigma lenses need fine tuning? Not necessarily, but I think more third party lenses need AF fine tuning than Pentax lenses. This is probably simply to do with the mount being reverse engineered and the camera having lens-specific profiles for the Pentax lenses. There are many threads about AF adjustment, using focus charts and other techniques to help find the best AF settings for your specific camera and lens (there is copy variation due to factory tolerances, which is why a lens can work great on one camera, but have FF/BF on another).
Should you return and get a Sony? This just sounds provocative. I mean, sure, go for it. Or don't. I just don't see why you would think the Sony would be inherently perfect. Getting the right focus is a big part of photography and has a lot to do with experience with that specific gear, so getting yet another different camera probably won't help. But if you think it will, please, go ahead. I don't want to detract you from getting the gear you want or need

Oh and AWB is usually bad indoors. You should select Tungsten in the WB menu. And I don't know about the K-3, but many Pentax cameras have a Menu option where you can select "Tungsten WB correction" to be strong or normal. Another thing you could do is use custom WB. Or like you said, shoot raw, choose WB in post

08-15-2014, 05:20 PM   #39
Veteran Member
bossa's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 4,546
Nikon recommends using a tightly packed group of focus points for continuous sports related AF. A single focus point cannot be expected to produce the desired outcome with a high rate of success where the target is constantly moving.
08-15-2014, 05:47 PM   #40
Veteran Member
kkoether's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huber Heights, OH, USA
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 576
I use Auto 9 and bias it to the area I want. Seems to work pretty well so far. Still developing my technique with the K-3 though. Quite a difference from my K200D.
08-16-2014, 10:35 AM   #41
Forum Member
Khoff2's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 84
Original Poster
Here are some comparison shots from the K3 with the DA*200 and the Sigma 70-200 EX, both F2.8. Trying to decide which to keep. Both are pretty fast on the K3. The keeper rate and focus speed is about the same, so I'm mostly looking at IQ and Bokeh. What do you think.

DA* 200mm F2.8

https://www.flickr.com/photos/68750816@N03/sets/72157646112164807/

Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 HSM

https://www.flickr.com/photos/68750816@N03/sets/72157646116326429/
08-16-2014, 04:28 PM   #42
Pentaxian




Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: GMT +10
Photos: Albums
Posts: 10,838
QuoteOriginally posted by Khoff2 Quote
I'm mostly looking at IQ and Bokeh
They both produce great looking images. If AF performance is the same, I'd probably go with the 70-200, just for the extra flexibility of the focal length. You won't always be shooting the same place and from the same position.
08-19-2014, 09:48 AM   #43
Pentaxian
Tjompen1968's Avatar

Join Date: May 2012
Location: Norrköping, Sweden
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 1,329
A note on the Auto White Balance, AWB.

There are many suggestions to put the White Balance on Tungsten when indoors. In Sweden, and EU as a whole I guess, the majority of light sources these days are no longer tungsten so test for your prefered setting. (You can't buy tungsten bulbs in Sweden anymore...)
08-19-2014, 01:31 PM - 1 Like   #44
Pentaxian
emalvick's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Davis, CA
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 1,475
This is probably contrary to the norm, but I usually just use AWB for almost all situations. If I have any potential concerns I will shoot a gray card. With tungsten lights, I usually just make my adjustments in PP. Most of the time the camera gets it decent and the gray card helps. I let my eyes guide the end result (I tend to like a warmer image anyway).
08-19-2014, 03:15 PM   #45
Site Supporter
Nick Siebers's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Madison, WI
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 2,152
QuoteOriginally posted by emalvick Quote
This is probably contrary to the norm, but I usually just use AWB for almost all situations. If I have any potential concerns I will shoot a gray card. With tungsten lights, I usually just make my adjustments in PP. Most of the time the camera gets it decent and the gray card helps. I let my eyes guide the end result (I tend to like a warmer image anyway).
I use Auto WB all the time too. And I use RAW + JPEG for when that was a mistake! If I have a few shots that chimp way off I will switch, but I almost always forget to switch back. Ah well.
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
70mm, af, af.c, batteries, battery, bit, camera, da*, dslr, focus, k-3, k-3 af.c, k3, k30, keeper, lens, menu, pentax, pentax k-3, rate, sec, sigma, test, time
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Just received my first Pentax camera!!! Courageous Faith General Talk 9 05-16-2014 11:04 AM
Received my K-3 today Franky2step Pentax K-3 97 11-06-2013 10:36 AM
Just received my first KX and have some concern on accessories it came with CarlitosReef Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 25 11-25-2011 09:42 AM
Just received my K-5 velvia Pentax K-5 3 12-30-2010 07:47 AM
Just received my K-r today. sklai Pentax K-r 7 11-30-2010 01:56 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:05 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top