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08-19-2017, 09:53 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Setting 18 is for when you can't get clean shots of your subject because other things get between it and the camera.
Yes, but that setting just works well, when your subject keeps the same distance to the camera.... ie moves left <-> right or up <-> down... if your subject moves closer to the camera or gets more distant, that function just blows up final results... most shots will be out of focus...

Let's say, a runner for instance... even in a situation with objects get between camera and a runner, if the runner will be running torwards camera, most of the shots will be out of focus... the AF status will be hold for too much time, and never can focus in the correct position of the runner... the focus will be always behind the runner in this case... even if we set the hold status to Low, i can't get nice results...

That's why i sair that for most cases, this setting should be turned off. I've done lot of experiences, and i can't just get nicer results... this setting is very useful in sports, because your subject/player can get behind other oponents, etc... but when the player start to get closer of further to the camera, this settings will mess up most of the shots...

Maybe i'm not getting the technique right... i don't know, but when searching the web, we can see too much people with same problem...

08-20-2017, 06:13 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by carlos.vieira Quote
Yes, but that setting just works well, when your subject keeps the same distance to the camera.... ie moves left <-> right or up <-> down... if your subject moves closer to the camera or gets more distant, that function just blows up final results...
Perhaps you should have reminded people in your original post, Carlos, that it works well when the subject is moving laterally, or is relatively stationary when other athletes move across the line of sight.

I can see there might be circumstances where the runner approaches so dramatically, the camera might be fooled into thinking that it's an intruder appearing in front of the subject, but I've not really noticed that on my K-1, which seems to have pretty much the same AF module as your K-3.
08-21-2017, 07:44 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Perhaps you should have reminded people in your original post, Carlos, that it works well when the subject is moving laterally, or is relatively stationary when other athletes move across the line of sight.

I can see there might be circumstances where the runner approaches so dramatically, the camera might be fooled into thinking that it's an intruder appearing in front of the subject, but I've not really noticed that on my K-1, which seems to have pretty much the same AF module as your K-3.
Yes, i think the AF module is the same on both K-3 and K-1... so, on your K-1, when you're shooting moving objects (tracking), do you often use "AF Hold Status" with success on approaching (or opposite) objects? Or you tend to use "AF Hold Status" on specific situations only?

Resuming, you are confident enough to use "AF Hold Status" for almost tracking situations, and you don't think much about it, since you can always get good results with that setting? You use what specific setting for "AF Hold Status" - Low, Medium or High?
08-21-2017, 04:58 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by carlos.vieira Quote
Yes, i think the AF module is the same on both K-3 and K-1... so, on your K-1, when you're shooting moving objects (tracking), do you often use "AF Hold Status" with success on approaching (or opposite) objects? Or you tend to use "AF Hold Status" on specific situations only?

Resuming, you are confident enough to use "AF Hold Status" for almost tracking situations, and you don't think much about it, since you can always get good results with that setting? You use what specific setting for "AF Hold Status" - Low, Medium or High?
Usually I have it on Hold, Medium, Carlos. The photo below is the sort of situation where it's handy either because of sudden obstacles, or the subject changes direction while you're panning, and you have to pan back to stay on them.

But if I'm shooting a subject where no other participants will cross in front, such as at an air show, it's turned off.



08-22-2017, 02:18 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Usually I have it on Hold, Medium, Carlos. The photo below is the sort of situation where it's handy either because of sudden obstacles, or the subject changes direction while you're panning, and you have to pan back to stay on them.

But if I'm shooting a subject where no other participants will cross in front, such as at an air show, it's turned off.
I think i have to practice a little harder to get the right technique i must be doing something wrong sometimes, when using Hold AF Status... or using the wrong settings on some scenes/subjects... thanks @clackers... let me have your thoughts about this also (see under please), if you don't mind

While using AF-C let me know your opinion about...:
- Shake reduction -> should be turned OFF while doing panning? If ON you see any negative impact on your action photos?
- If shooting JPEG on action shots, do you turn off Lens corrections, etc... to keep the camera less "busy", so that does not affect performance for AF-C?

Can really SR = On when panning, be the cause of some blur on shots... i've tried to conclude something about it, but still can't have a definitive conclusion (because the blur can have many other causes, of course)... my initial thoughts about this, is that using SR while panning isn't really causing blur... what's your thoughts about it, taking into account your experiences?

Btw, nice photo!

Last edited by carlos.vieira; 08-22-2017 at 03:38 AM.
08-22-2017, 04:49 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by carlos.vieira Quote
I think i have to practice a little harder to get the right technique i must be doing something wrong sometimes, when using Hold AF Status... or using the wrong settings on some scenes/subjects... thanks @clackers... let me have your thoughts about this also (see under please), if you don't mind

While using AF-C let me know your opinion about...:
- Shake reduction -> should be turned OFF while doing panning? If ON you see any negative impact on your action photos?
- If shooting JPEG on action shots, do you turn off Lens corrections, etc... to keep the camera less "busy", so that does not affect performance for AF-C?

Can really SR = On when panning, be the cause of some blur on shots... i've tried to conclude something about it, but still can't have a definitive conclusion (because the blur can have many other causes, of course)... my initial thoughts about this, is that using SR while panning isn't really causing blur... what's your thoughts about it, taking into account your experiences?

Btw, nice photo!
Well, practice of correct technique is all-important, Carlos!

I usually shoot sports on a monopod, not handheld, and of course, I'm always panning to keep the focus point on the subject.

My Sigma 150-500 has two settings for OIS, and I do bother to switch it to the mode where it doesn't act against the panning movement.

I must admit that when using my Tamron 70-200, I usually do *not* disable SR and haven't been troubled by the results, but I've never conducted a scientific comparison study either!

08-22-2017, 06:38 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
I must admit that when using my Tamron 70-200, I usually do *not* disable SR and haven't been troubled by the results, but I've never conducted a scientific comparison study either!
It is my understanding that the SR on K-3 and newer bodies is not prone to issues with panning. I don't worry about it any more.


Steve

08-23-2017, 12:24 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
It is my understanding that the SR on K-3 and newer bodies is not prone to issues with panning. I don't worry about it any more.


Steve
Well, that explains it, Steve ... thanks for the info!

08-23-2017, 01:50 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Well, practice of correct technique is all-important, Carlos!

I usually shoot sports on a monopod, not handheld, and of course, I'm always panning to keep the focus point on the subject.

My Sigma 150-500 has two settings for OIS, and I do bother to switch it to the mode where it doesn't act against the panning movement.

I must admit that when using my Tamron 70-200, I usually do *not* disable SR and haven't been troubled by the results, but I've never conducted a scientific comparison study either!
QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
It is my understanding that the SR on K-3 and newer bodies is not prone to issues with panning. I don't worry about it any more.


Steve
QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Well, that explains it, Steve ... thanks for the info!
Thanks for the valuable info @clackers & @stevebrot
08-23-2017, 01:47 PM - 1 Like   #40
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I have to thank everyone for all the replies. I just got my new K3ii last week and have been trying to learn everything that is in this camera. Moving up from my 1st D, 1st DS and 1st DL, I made a major leap here! But everyone's comments have been great in helping me understand what many of the menus do and greatly shorted my learning curve. So far only 125 shots, many with manual focus. It's hard to get my film days out of me as every shot was important to get correct........ the AF 360 FGZ flash works wonderful with this camera so far, the built in flash on my other cameras was hardly ever used as I prefer wildlife shots with longer lenses.
08-23-2017, 05:02 PM - 1 Like   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by stihlmania Quote
the AF 360 FGZ flash works wonderful with this camera so far, the built in flash on my other cameras was hardly ever used as I prefer wildlife shots with longer lenses.
Although, you can buy a Fresnel lens for inbuilt flashes as well as external ones. I have both.
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