[charlestm]

I've been having some relatively good success shooting soccer games with my k3, except for one issue. When shooting continuous, although all photos in each sequence are in focus, and although the first photo is properly exposed, the other shots in the burst sequence appear over-exposed. If not over-exposed, then perhaps the white balance is wrong.

Regardless, the first photo in the sequence is usually sharp and properly exposed, and the remainder of the sequence is sharp but far too bright.

I have taken the AF off of the shutter button and I'm using the AF back button. My metering is Multi-segment, and my white balance is Auto.

I have tried setting Continuous to "medium speed" thinking that would give the processor more time to recover, but that doesn't help.

Any ideas!

[crewl1]

Perhaps as the player is moving in and out of shadows the overall scene is changing too much.
Perhaps try spot metering if you plan to keep the player centered in the field of view.

When shooting continuous, although all photos in each sequence are in focus, and although the first photo is properly exposed, the other shots in the burst sequence appear over-exposed. If not over-exposed, then perhaps the white balance is wrong.

Another thought - what mode are you shooting in? I use TAv and the changes in ISO to compensate seem to keep up just fine with the changes in scene.

[jbinpg]

If you are having white balance issues using Auto WB, just lock it on Daylight WB if the games are outside. If they are lit by big lights, try one of the artificial light WB presets.

Jack

[hcc]

What you describe is not normal, unless as suggested by crewl1 the scene changes a lot. I always use Hi continuous shooting and I have not experienced any such problem. I use typically the P mode and Tv mode, using spot metering.

My 5 cents....

[Adam]

Can you post some examples with exif? Also, what metering mode are you in?

[pearsaab]

I've been having some relatively good success shooting soccer games with my k3, except for one issue. When shooting continuous, although all photos in each sequence are in focus, and although the first photo is properly exposed, the other shots in the burst sequence appear over-exposed. If not over-exposed, then perhaps the white balance is wrong.

Regardless, the first photo in the sequence is usually sharp and properly exposed, and the remainder of the sequence is sharp but far too bright.

I have taken the AF off of the shutter button and I'm using the AF back button. My metering is Multi-segment, and my white balance is Auto.

I have tried setting Continuous to "medium speed" thinking that would give the processor more time to recover, but that doesn't help.

Any ideas!

i have experienced the same issue...mine was tav mode, high continueous mode, spot meter...light metering was the middle one (can't remember what it is called, don't have my camera with me)...auto white balance..in my case 1 picture would be screwed up..not all...and i was shooting a person who was staying in the same position outside so there was no reason for the lighting to have changed...my example someone sitting on a water tube as it roled upside down....would click the entire sequence and 1 in the sequence would be really light...i probably deleted the picture but saw it on multiple occasions and again it was just one in the series...out of curiosity have you had any issues with mirror flop

[charlestm]

Perhaps as the player is moving in and out of shadows the overall scene is changing too much.
Perhaps try spot metering if you plan to keep the player centered in the field of view.



Another thought - what mode are you shooting in? I use TAv and the changes in ISO to compensate seem to keep up just fine with the changes in scene.

At 8 FPS, the scene isn't changing much over the course of one continuous burst. And I am shooting using TAV mode. But I will try switching to spot metering and see if that helps. Thanks.

---------- Post added 09-17-2014 at 05:59 AM ----------

If you are having white balance issues using Auto WB, just lock it on Daylight WB if the games are outside. If they are lit by big lights, try one of the artificial light WB presets.

Jack

I actually started out with daylight selected for white balance and wasn't liking the result, so I switched to Auto.

---------- Post added 09-17-2014 at 06:00 AM ----------

Can you post some examples with exif? Also, what metering mode are you in?

I will post some examples here in a bit. Thanks.

---------- Post added 09-17-2014 at 06:01 AM ----------

i have experienced the same issue...mine was tav mode, high continueous mode, spot meter...light metering was the middle one (can't remember what it is called, don't have my camera with me)...auto white balance..in my case 1 picture would be screwed up..not all...and i was shooting a person who was staying in the same position outside so there was no reason for the lighting to have changed...my example someone sitting on a water tube as it roled upside down....would click the entire sequence and 1 in the sequence would be really light...i probably deleted the picture but saw it on multiple occasions and again it was just one in the series...out of curiosity have you had any issues with mirror flop

I have had no issues with mirror flop.

When using TAv one has to understand that if the speed, f-stop and ISO-combo goes thru the bottom, i.e ISO100, the image will be overexposed.
I prefer Av with auto ISO and use the three levels of ISO-control to set the minimum shutter speed to use before rising the ISO. With the DA*300 that is 1/200 Slow, 1/400 Normal and 1/800 Fast.

[charlestm]

Here are three photos from one continuous shot. The first as you can see is acceptable in terms of color and exposure and white balance, but the two that follow are not. These are JPGs straight out of the camera (large files) ... no post-processing.







---------- Post added 09-17-2014 at 06:35 AM ----------

I've been having some relatively good success shooting soccer games with my k3, except for one issue. When shooting continuous, although all photos in each sequence are in focus, and although the first photo is properly exposed, the other shots in the burst sequence appear over-exposed. If not over-exposed, then perhaps the white balance is wrong.

Regardless, the first photo in the sequence is usually sharp and properly exposed, and the remainder of the sequence is sharp but far too bright.

I have taken the AF off of the shutter button and I'm using the AF back button. My metering is Multi-segment, and my white balance is Auto.

I have tried setting Continuous to "medium speed" thinking that would give the processor more time to recover, but that doesn't help.

Any ideas!

Here are three thumbmails that demonstrate the issue.

---------- Post added 09-17-2014 at 06:41 AM ----------

When using TAv one has to understand that if the speed, f-stop and ISO-combo goes thru the bottom, i.e ISO100, the image will be overexposed.
I prefer Av with auto ISO and use the three levels of ISO-control to set the minimum shutter speed to use before rising the ISO. With the DA*300 that is 1/200 Slow, 1/400 Normal and 1/800 Fast.

The three photos I submitted have an ISO of 640. Here are some thumbnails of demonstrating the issue.

---------- Post added 09-17-2014 at 06:43 AM ----------

For some reason I can't seem to post the three thumbnails, so here is a link to them:

http://www.dataimprints.com/burstissue/burst.JPG

The problem you have is that the lens does not stop down. Check your lens to see if the aperture is stuck for a moment before closing. Is the lever moving as supposed?

You see that the DOF is less in the second and third images, the aperture is more open than the first even if it says 7.1

[charlestm]

The problem you have is that the lens does not stop down. Check your lens to see if the aperture is stuck for a moment before closing. Is the lever moving as supposed?

You see that the DOF is less in the second and third images, the aperture is more open than the first even if it says 7.1

The lens is a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 HSM .... as you noted, it was set to 7.1 for all three photos in the sequence.

I'm not sure how to check the lens to see if the aperture is stuck for a moment. With an HSM lens, all of the mechanics are inside the lens, so you don't see anything move, correct? Can you provide more guidance on checking to see if the aperature is stuck?

I have used this lens for years now only quite recently with a K-7, and I don't have this issue with that camera body.

Is there a setting that will lock the aperature during a continuous burst?

thanks for replying.

[crewl1]

Yes I was thinking it may be a problem with the lens if all else seems OK.
For comparison here is a set I have from yesterday from lightroom where the shots look pretty much fine, even though the players were moving in and out of deep shadows and bright sunshine.
Lens is Sigma 50-500 OS. Settings were TAv, 1/1000, f8.
Histograms are all pretty well centered.

EDIT: I should state that I use focus priority so bursts are typically less than 8fps. Later today I can test using shutter priority and see if I get similar results to yours.

[rawr]

I will try switching to spot metering

Spot metering mode may cause more problems than it solves. The spot isn't dynamic, just fixed in the centre of the frame, and furthermore only represents about 2% of the frame. If the spot drifts over a dark or light area, then your overall exposure is going to be very skewed.

As the manual says: 'Useful only when the subject is small'.

I'd stick to Multi-segment metering, or if you want to experiment, centre-weighted.

Are you using a hood?

[crewl1]

I'm not sure how to check the lens to see if the aperture is stuck for a moment. With an HSM lens, all of the mechanics are inside the lens, so you don't see anything move, correct? Can you provide more guidance on checking to see if the aperature is stuck?

There is a lever at the rear of the lens that you can move along the edge of the mount. When you move it the aperture blades should open and snap back when you let it go. If they are sluggish it may be they are binding somewhere.

[TER-OR]

Yes, if spot, then it can choose the shorts or the shirt - and these are very different shades. I find this with the dogs - black coated huskies in the snow...

I should use center-weighted more than I do.

Check the ISO of each shot, that will tell you whether the camera is adjusting based on its metering rather than there being any mechanical issue.