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09-21-2014, 08:06 PM   #1
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green mode ...am I doing it wrong?

I always shoot manual, from my old pentax k1000 days, but today I was at an air show and thought I would just put it on green mode in case some planes went by I could take a quick shot while walking around. I was using the kit lens and most of my images are blurry due to low shutter speed for the lens, or it would not focus on the planes, it kept hunting for something to focus (which maybe I could understand that) but the low shutter speed seems odd for an auto setting. Is that typical or was there another setting I needed to set in another menu? Am I expecting too much from the auto mode? And I learned my lesson for sure, when I had time to take it off green and set to manual I did get great shots. This is just a question mainly for my curiosity at this point, I don't think I will use green mode again.

09-21-2014, 08:21 PM - 1 Like   #2
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If you want to shoot fast moving planes, at least use TV. full auto isn't going to know to use a shutter speed of 1/1600 or whatever. Its meant for general snapshot.


Personally my camera never leaves manual mode. I wish it didn't even have a mode dial...
09-21-2014, 08:44 PM   #3
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I'd use P mode for a general walkabout auto setting. And for an airshow I'd switch the Program Line setting under P to 'High Speed priority' to keep the shutter speed up, and make sure the auto ISO ceiling was set high.

Otherwise, I'd use Tv mode with a high auto ISO, and set a fast shutter of your choosing when the planes are your subject.
09-21-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
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Green mode makes lots of guesses about settings you might want but has no real clue about what you are trying to do. Especially in this case where you are shooting action and would want a faster shutter speed.
As the others have suggested switch to P (or Tv or Tav if you like) and change shutter speed to a higher setting.

09-21-2014, 10:20 PM   #5
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If you know about exposure and shutter speed, etc. letting the camera make decisions (other than the exposure--given you pick the shutter speed or f stop you want--or presumably iso where you pick both) is not a good idea.

Your intelligence/experience trumps any logic built into a camera.
09-21-2014, 10:43 PM   #6
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I checked your profile but I couldn't find any info - which model of camera are you using?
09-22-2014, 03:56 AM   #7
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K-3 is my camera. Like I mentioned I shot manual fine, so personally I don't use any settings other than that and probably never will now. This was more of me seeing what it could do because I never had the option in a camera before.

But what makes no sense to me is that it went below the shutter speed I could use for my focal length most of my pictures suffered from camera shake. It seems odd that it would go that low since it is automatic...but I guess that is where I am expecting too much, lol.

If I didn't delete all the out of focus ones I will post the difference.
09-22-2014, 04:34 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote
K-3 is my camera. Like I mentioned I shot manual fine, so personally I don't use any settings other than that and probably never will now. This was more of me seeing what it could do because I never had the option in a camera before.

But what makes no sense to me is that it went below the shutter speed I could use for my focal length most of my pictures suffered from camera shake. It seems odd that it would go that low since it is automatic...but I guess that is where I am expecting too much, lol.

If I didn't delete all the out of focus ones I will post the difference.
The camera doesn't know you're taking photos of fast moving things, so supposing it was a sunny day, it would be trying to get a reasonable balance of shutter speed, low ISO and small aperture. I don't know what focal length you were using, but I agree that it would make more sense if the green mode leaned toward shutter speed as the focal length increases. As others have suggested, the best automated mode for an airshow is probably program with a bias toward shutter speed; which is what I used on the weekend. Manual is great if you're up to the adjustments, but in the sunny and often back-lit conditions I had on the weekend, I'd have been adjusting the camera too much. Using program mode allowed me to concentrate on focus and framing. Anyway, that's me; use what works for you, of course!

09-22-2014, 07:45 AM   #9
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Personally, I like TAv when shooting something like airshows, or wildlife. Shutter speed is critical, and I don't always want the camera to default wide open, so pick your aperture and shutter speed and let the camera pick the iso. Low light performance in the newer dslr's is good enough that I don't worry overly about iso in decent light, and if you're going small enough/fast enough you really don't need to worry about overexposure even in strong light.
09-22-2014, 12:35 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by jrpower10 Quote
Personally, I like TAv when shooting something like airshows, or wildlife. Shutter speed is critical, and I don't always want the camera to default wide open, so pick your aperture and shutter speed and let the camera pick the iso. Low light performance in the newer dslr's is good enough that I don't worry overly about iso in decent light, and if you're going small enough/fast enough you really don't need to worry about overexposure even in strong light.
Using TAv makes a huge difference when you're photographing moving objects, don't want to be wide open, and the brightness is going to change between shots so you need the ISO to correct for it so you don't have to. Using it has made a huge improvement in the quality of photos I get at things like concerts.

At an air show, where you'd want the shutter fast enough that the plane is sharp but not so fast that the propeller is frozen, but the planes are going to be far away and the light is probably going to be good, I'd think Tv or M would probably be the best bet.

Some article on Nikon I'd bookmarked before going to an airshow (that I ended up not attending) says:
QuoteQuote:
"There are two exposure modes you want to use. For jets, aperture priority works best. I like to shoot at f/5.6 to f/8 and let the camera deal with shutter speed. For propeller planes, I like to use shutter priority with a speed of 1/25 second to 1/125 second so the props blur and the aircraft look like they're really flying, not hanging from a string."I set the camera for continuous high speed advance and closest-subject priority autofocus. Typically I'll underexpose using -1/3 to -1 exposure compensation to increase saturation of the image, and I've got my cameras set for vivid color mode.
"If this is your first time at an air show, think of your first day as practice. On the second and third day, you’ll likely see a huge increase in keepers as you get used to photographing the fast-moving planes. To have a great first day, practice before you head to the show by photographing your dog running in the yard or your kids riding their bikes. Just pan and shoot—it’s fun and it's productive.
I kinda wish there was a setting like "speed limiter" and "aperture limiter" like there is for the ISO. There are situations where I'd like to tell the camera something like "I want this shot between f/5.6 and f/11" or "use any shutter speed faster than 1/200"
09-22-2014, 12:41 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone
QuoteOriginally posted by RobG Quote
As others have suggested, the best automated mode for an airshow is probably program with a bias toward shutter speed; which is what I used on the weekend. Manual is great if you're up to the adjustments, but in the sunny and often back-lit conditions I had on the weekend, I'd have been adjusting the camera too much. Using program mode allowed me to concentrate on focus and framing. Anyway, that's me; use what works for you, of course!
Yes I will do that next time, it was a first time thing, and I thought since I was going back and forth between grounded planes and airshow - we could tour the planes so it was dark inside - I would make things easier for me. But yes, I forgot the capabilities in low light of the k-3, even though that is why I bought it! I should let the ISO adjust, I keep forgetting that is an option sometimes, with film you don't have that!

For example I had a shot at 88mm, and shutter speed was 1/60. It all looked like camera shake to me. There were focusing issues, but most shots looked more like camera shake. The 1/60 wasn't for the air show part, that was for inside shot of a toy plane in a building, but still seems low too me.

Another one is 135 mm at 1/200

Last edited by Murfy; 09-22-2014 at 12:47 PM.
09-22-2014, 12:45 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote
Thanks everyone


Yes I will do that next time, it was a first time thing, and I thought since I was going back and forth between grounded planes and airshow - we could tour the planes so it was dark inside - I would make things easier for me. But yes, I forgot the capabilities in low light of the k-3, even though that is why I bought it! I should let the ISO adjust, I keep forgetting that is an option sometimes, with film you don't have that!

For example I had a shot at 88mm, and shutter speed was 1/60. It all looked like camera shake to me. There were focusing issues, but most shots looked more like camera shake. The 1/60 wasn't for the air show part, that was for inside shot of a toy plane in a building, but still seems low too me.
In a situation like that, it might be worth setting up a couple of user modes to let you switch back and forth easily, especially with the K3 having 3 of them on the dial.
09-22-2014, 12:48 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by narual Quote
In a situation like that, it might be worth setting up a couple of user modes to let you switch back and forth easily, especially with the K3 having 3 of them on the dial.
Oh yeah - good idea! Again I am used to not having that option, the leap to digital has been a little hard for me
09-22-2014, 03:31 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by narual Quote
I kinda wish there was a setting like "speed limiter" and "aperture limiter" like there is for the ISO. There are situations where I'd like to tell the camera something like "I want this shot between f/5.6 and f/11" or "use any shutter speed faster than 1/200"
When the camera is in program mode you can also adjust the aperture and shutter speed wheels to force the bias in the direction you want.

---------- Post added 23-09-14 at 08:33 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote
For example I had a shot at 88mm, and shutter speed was 1/60. It all looked like camera shake to me. There were focusing issues, but most shots looked more like camera shake. The 1/60 wasn't for the air show part, that was for inside shot of a toy plane in a building, but still seems low too me.
I took quite a few shots indoors on the weekend at lower shutter speeds. Did you hold the shutter release half way until the IS indicator came up?
09-22-2014, 07:21 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobG Quote
When the camera is in program mode you can also adjust the aperture and shutter speed wheels to force the bias in the direction you want.

---------- Post added 23-09-14 at 08:33 AM ----------



I took quite a few shots indoors on the weekend at lower shutter speeds. Did you hold the shutter release half way until the IS indicator came up?
Yes it came up...so I guess it was just slightly out of focus because it couldn't find what to focus on. It looked more like camera shake to me but it could have been just the focus. I have some that are really out of focus. There is a setting to allow for shutter release when not in focus? I think I have that on ..oh well you live and learn. At least it was just all for fun and I wasn't getting paid.
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