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12-02-2014, 12:39 PM   #31
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Here are samples from my 18-135. The first is an airplane flying overhead that I wanted to see more detail on later. The snap wasn't intended as art but I like the out of focus leaves. The still water with reflections is from a recent hike in a nearby park the sun was to my left and behind and the shot was late afternoon. The bright yellow leaves were just to see what color rendition can be like on the lens. The singer is Matt Gerber and this was shot inside a small club at 32000 ISO - noisy but usable for what I wanted. The Toronto harbor shot was made from an Island in the Harbor and is overexposed - two days later my camera had a real hissy fit and started seriously failing to expose things properly and had to be serviced so forgive that please.

Do these help?

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Last edited by UncleVanya; 12-02-2014 at 12:48 PM.
12-02-2014, 12:58 PM   #32
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Here's another shot showing how bad flare can get... don't intentionally shot into the sun unless you want this effect. In this shot you can clearly see the effect of the 7 aperture blades but despite the report that they are rounded there is not much rounding to see in the picture.
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Last edited by UncleVanya; 12-02-2014 at 01:04 PM.
12-02-2014, 01:54 PM   #33
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Thanks for those photos! I am impressed with the results of the 18-135. I am taking a closer look at possibly getting a used DA* 16-50 or 50-135 lens. That would save me a chunk of cash.

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12-02-2014, 02:24 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Obin Robinson Quote
Thanks for those photos! I am impressed with the results of the 18-135. I am taking a closer look at possibly getting a used DA* 16-50 or 50-135 lens. That would save me a chunk of cash.

obin
It's a better lens than most give it credit for. I LOVE LOVE LOVE my 18-135 - there is something more to a lens than pure resolution and that lens has it, but so does the 16-50! The 16-50 is faster and that is a very good fit for any indoor shots you might want to make. The K3 will have plenty of pixels to survive a crop if you happen to have the 16-50 mounted when you need a longer focal length, just crop to get the shot to look like you used a longer focal length lens.

Personally I cannot stress enough that you should have some type of backup camera - even if not an SLR. However I would try to have another Pentax SLR with me to enjoy the lenses. Another option might be to have a Q series camera and one of the cheap K mount adapters (or the really nice Pentax version). This would give you crazy telephoto range from even something like the 16-50 (4-5+ crop factor depending on the specific Q camera). This means that the "75mm" view on the K3 would become up to "270mm" and a 50-135 would yield a "729mm" field of view. Just a thought to tempt you...

12-02-2014, 03:16 PM   #35
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I thoroughly believe in backups. There is a saying we have that goes "one is none and two is one" so one camera is effectively NO camera. I plan on bringing one of my point-and-shoots as well as getting something like a used K-7 or other weather sealed camera as a backup.

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12-02-2014, 03:27 PM   #36
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As nice as the 18-135 is for all around utility, I've never found its image quality that outstanding. You won't really be using a teleconverter on it either. It would make me think that something like the 16-50 or equivalent could be a better option or even a couple of the pancake type primes like the 21 mm and a 40 or 50 mm. Two of those would be smaller than the 18-135. The 60-250 would seem like a good option for your telephoto shots. I'm thinking of one to replace my 55-300, which is a decent lens but not the best. The 55-300 is nice for being compact, however. But if you get the 55-300, I'd probably just skip the teleconverter. I think you'd almost be better off cropping than using the TC with that lens.

From another perspective, you do have a few decent lenses already. You might browse some of the lens forums and sample pages and see what quality you'd like and whether anything you own might be usable and then buy one great lens where you think you need it most (e.g. wide end or telephoto end).

Last, my favorite zoom lens is still my Tamron 17-50. It's not weather sealed, but I've used it in some ominous conditions. As long as you don't zoom it in and out a lot and you make a modest effort at keeping it dry, it is a pretty good lens especially at its price point. It's a lot sharper than my 18-135.
12-02-2014, 04:08 PM - 1 Like   #37
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Here's a couple more from the 18-135 on my K3 from last week showing water. Lighting conditions sucked, but thankfully my equipment served me well!



12-02-2014, 04:44 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by VoiceOfReason Quote
Here's a couple more from the 18-135 on my K3 from last week showing water. Lighting conditions sucked, but thankfully my equipment served me well!


Excellent! Even from these smaller photos I can see more contrast and better colors than what I got with my little point-and-shoot. I'm thinking of getting that 18-135 lens. as my primary "all weather" lens but I'll keep a good prime handy as well. I might even ditch the teleconverter completely if a good crop will do.


QuoteOriginally posted by emalvick Quote

From another perspective, you do have a few decent lenses already. You might browse some of the lens forums and sample pages and see what quality you'd like and whether anything you own might be usable and then buy one great lens where you think you need it most (e.g. wide end or telephoto end).

Last, my favorite zoom lens is still my Tamron 17-50. It's not weather sealed, but I've used it in some ominous conditions. As long as you don't zoom it in and out a lot and you make a modest effort at keeping it dry, it is a pretty good lens especially at its price point. It's a lot sharper than my 18-135.


Hmm. That's a good call. I do have a few different ship photos but those were with my K-m. I haven't been back to the shipyard with my K-3 yet. It certainly wouldn't hurt. As far as the 17-50 goes that range would probably be used inside the ship or at a short range. I'll look into that option as well. Thanks!


---------- Post added 12-02-14 at 05:55 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by bradshea Quote
Here are samples from my 18-135.
Do these help?
Yes they do thanks! That last one is probably the most similar to the lighting conditions and contrast conditions I would encounter.


Here is a photo with my Optio M20 point-and-shoot. You can understand why I want something higher resolution the next time I go on a ship.



You see what I'm talking about? The Pacific Paradise name can hardly be resolved. The water, ship, and sky all mush together into a dull mess. I don't want to have to look back on a trip around the world and the ship photos come out looking like this again.

obin



Last edited by Obin Robinson; 12-02-2014 at 04:55 PM.
12-02-2014, 05:27 PM   #39
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Here's a link to a RAW file taken with the K3 and 18-135 in poor lighting from a car last week in Rotterdam. I thought the building looked cool, but this will show you what you can expect with using the combo. Mess around with it some and see if that pushes you one way or the other.

http://www.scottyspot.com/fullsize/IMGP0175.DNG

This is straight OOC with no processing applied at all.
12-02-2014, 06:41 PM   #40
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All of the photos I put in the thread were in camera jpg files with no processing other than in camera distortion and lateral ca corrections which I think were enabled.
12-02-2014, 07:23 PM   #41
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I'd reconsider taking only one lens. Pentax primes are known for being very compact, they shouldn't take up any space at all and having something like the DA 35 f/2.4 or even a Limited at hand might come in very handy to portray life on the ship. The image quality will just be better and they would be great in low light.
12-02-2014, 08:06 PM   #42
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Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. I am really blown away by the photos that have been posted. It's really giving me a good idea of what to expect from the weather sealed lenses. As the time comes closer then I'll have a better idea of how much gear I can bring along. If things work out in my favor then I'll have more space for lenses. I think I'll be keeping an eye on the classifieds after Christmas. Given the choice I'd rather pick up an excellent used DA* lens rather than a new DA lens. I'm really impressed with the DA* examples however that 18-135mm is no slouch either. The primes do indeed take up very little space. One option I am considering is just mailing home all of my memory cards as they are used. That would alleviate the need for worrying about multiple backup drives.


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12-02-2014, 09:12 PM   #43
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If you are willing, setup the dual sd cards so that you record to both then ship a copy home and keep a copy.
12-03-2014, 03:08 PM   #44
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That is a good suggestion. I was also thinking of maybe just buying a big stack of 16GB cards and mailing them home every week or so. While we're "out and about" the mail services are really inexpensive. I will retain a copy on a simple external hard drive. That way in case the mail is lost or the hard drive is lost at least not all my photos are lost.


I acquired a Promaster 70-300MM F/4-5.6 EDO LD Tele-Macro lens that I am going to try out. I have since thought about maybe buying something like the Sigma DP1 for the close-up shots in addition to the K-3 with a good closeup lens. I am going to be finding out how much space we have and if there's any indication that I'll have enough space to bring two cameras then I'm going for it!


This forum is the best! I'm so glad I registered!


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12-03-2014, 03:37 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tjompen1968 Quote
I tested this for backup. Just put the card in and let it sync. 16 GB takes 20-25 minutes and to make sure it worked you can connect to it via wifi.

My Passport Wireless | Wi-Fi Mobile Storage
I second the mobile HD backup method (if it has an SD card slot). Personally, I use a HyperDrive iUSBPort HD (long name, small box), which has an SD slot and does error-correction as it copies and has an LCD to confirm what was copied. Either one is better than a stack of SD cards getting mixed up and/or broken in the mail, IMHO.

QuoteOriginally posted by Kozlok Quote
Maybe PM Heie, he's bound to understand your specific situation more than us.
Nah, he's a dogface, not a squid. (Inside joke to the OP and Heie)
[EDIT: actually, I think Heie's a snake eater now]

Something to consider is that a K-3 has a lot more "dynamic range" than a point-n-shoot. This means that not only will the colors and resolution be better, but the low-light performance will be much better, even when shooting inside a birdfarm. The lenses on most point-n-shoots are slow and optimized for bright sun, so even the 18-135 will be good for you. Any teleconverter will work much better on a "faster" (larger max aperture) lens, like an f/2.8 or f/4, as opposed to the "slower" 18-135 or 55-200. By better, I mean it will actually autofocus! Just my .02.

Last edited by panoguy; 12-03-2014 at 04:09 PM.
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