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12-13-2014, 06:00 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by MyTZuS Quote
This morning I'm hopping between Green
If you want programmed exposure, use P mode instead of "green" and set the ISO to 400 or lower with exposure compensation set to 0 (none). For most general shooting you should never really need higher ISO and if you stay low, you should never have to worry about noise or or noise reduction.

I would suggest taking some time to learn the basics of your camera and not rush the process. The manual is helpful as might be the e-book linked in the second comment. The K-3 is a big step up from your K-x, but not really so different in actual operation. With the exception of the "green" and picture and scene modes, your K-3 supports all the same stuff as your K-x. If you had been using the "green", picture, and scene modes on the K-x, I guess there will be a learning curve.


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12-13-2014, 06:00 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by MyTZuS Quote
This morning I'm hopping between Green & Manual (indoors). Using the settings from the Green pic and applying to the Manual pic. Manual pic looks much worse with same settings. Not that I like the Green that much mind you. I've tried variable settings with the ISO as well.
Well, Green mode has no user controls, so when you shift to manual, are you using the same ISO?

With manual mode, the easiest way is to press the green button so that it automatically sets the Manual mode to what you want. It's basically like P-mode when used with a constant ISO. i.e. choose an ISO and then press green and the aperture and shutter speed will be selected to work. Indoors photography is challenging, especially if you don't use flash and if the lighting isn't great.

I would almost suggest that if you are shooting indoors, and you are dealing with fast action, you may be better off using Shutter Priority (Tv) and select a fast shutter speed (other threads on sports photography might help... i'd think you'd want 1/250-sec). Then let the camera choose the aperture and ISO (or fix the ISO and let it choose an aperture). That would solve some of your problems.

Noisy images are not the end of the world, and they even help things appear sharper. Plus noise always seems worse on our screens than what it is in print or if you scale an image down. Ultimately, it's better to have a sharp, noisy image than a blurry image with less noise but nothing in focus.
12-14-2014, 06:05 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by MyTZuS Quote

One, I don't have time to compose shots indoors, everything is happening way too fast. And the ISO it forces me to use slows down my shutter speed so I'm getting noise & blurred images.

Two, kinda related, the action indoors is much too fast for this camera. Whether its volleyball or basketball or my 3 year olds jumping off of couches next to a bay window in broad daylight.
The camera will not force you to use the ISO it wants you to use if you turn auto ISO off.

The action is not too fast for the K-3. The only way the K-3 is incapable of being used indoors is if the camera you have has one or more defects. However, you mentioned you only have two lenses, the 18-135 and the 55-300. Both of those are fine lenses, but they are slow, not really suitable for indoor shooting without cranking up the ISO to a level where the resulting noise is unacceptable for your purposes. You need faster glass.

You also need to post some images with exif data included. That will make it much easier to diagnose the problem.

One other thing, have you tried using Tav mode when shooting indoors?
12-14-2014, 09:47 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by MPrince Quote
The camera will not force you to use the ISO it wants you to use if you turn auto ISO off.
Green mode...

QuoteOriginally posted by MPrince Quote
One other thing, have you tried using Tav mode when shooting indoors?
Speaking of modes where the camera choses the ISO for you...sorry, could not resist...


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12-14-2014, 09:50 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by MPrince Quote
The action is not too fast for the K-3.
This may well be. The trick is to use AF-C with a full spread of auto focus points and use shutter bursts in high speed drive mode. Spray and pray and there may well be a keeper. The camera actually does a pretty good job of finding and tracking the subject.


Steve
12-14-2014, 10:25 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Green mode...



Speaking of modes where the camera choses the ISO for you...sorry, could not resist...


Steve
Yes, that's true, but only after you have chosen the aperture and shutter speed you want to use. One of the OP's complaints was that he was getting high ISO with slow shutter speeds (probably when in Green mode, but we don't know for sure since he hasn't posted any sample images). At least in Tav mode the camera picks an ISO only after you set aperture and shutter speed.

---------- Post added 12-14-14 at 12:30 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
This may well be. The trick is to use AF-C with a full spread of auto focus points and use shutter bursts in high speed drive mode. Spray and pray and there may well be a keeper. The camera actually does a pretty good job of finding and tracking the subject.


Steve
Somehow, photographers managed to shoot sports long before AF existed. Never underestimate the importance of skill.
12-14-2014, 12:02 PM   #37
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Well, thats it. Using the K-x you had to make a lot of adjustments that you don't have to make in the K3.

For example, I actually don't mind not having a red dot/reticle to show me where I'm aiming since I trained myself to keep a subject centered w/o one on the K-x.

I would go between M & Tv when shooting with my K-x. Never tried anything else. Most times I used AF but started doing quite well doing focus manually only.

Also, never used PEF since I have Adobe Creative Suite 5.5. If there's a plugin I'd like to know. Also, K3 photos are crashing my Adobe Bridge, so another headache (there are techniques in Bridge that are just as powerful as Lightroom which is why I don't use that).

Right now, I barely trust the Green mode and I've tried the TAv mode (with all NR turned off) with disappointing results. I'll see how Tv goes on this rig later today. And M mode is just a disaster unless I can take my time and compose.

Would be nice if LiveView correctly showed the result of a still but interestingly enough while filming in movie, I can adjust settings and get a clear & colorful setting since the LCD then shows the results in realtime. Nicely surprised by that.

Again, cannot post pics for legal reasons. Not allowed to post any images of these kids on any site. These are Foster kids. The State would shut me down if I did.

As an avid gamer & former technician of many things mechanical & electrical... I know how to figure out 'work arounds'. This camera makes me look like an imbecile.
12-14-2014, 12:12 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Homo_erectus Quote
For the first few weeks after I got my K5iis I was terrified that I had made a huge mistake because so many of my pictures were oof, shaky, just generally mal-exposed, mis-focused and terrible.

It was 99% user error.
One of my first posts here was very similar to the first post in this thread. I went from an advanced P&S to the K7 and couldn't get the hang of it. I blamed the equipment, when in fact the problem was 99% me (and 1% cheap CPL filter throwing off white balance).

12-14-2014, 05:16 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by MyTZuS Quote
Also, never used PEF since I have Adobe Creative Suite 5.5. If there's a plugin I'd like to know. Also, K3 photos are crashing my Adobe Bridge, so another headache (there are techniques in Bridge that are just as powerful as Lightroom which is why I don't use that).

I use PEF and DNG files from the K-3 with CS4, Lightroom and Bridge. No issues. If you are using it on a computer not up to stuff handling the much larger files, that may be the problem, but that's easy enough to identify by using the performance tab in Task Manager.

QuoteQuote:
Again, cannot post pics for legal reasons. Not allowed to post any images of these kids on any site. These are Foster kids. The State would shut me down if I did.

As an avid gamer & former technician of many things mechanical & electrical... I know how to figure out 'work arounds'. This camera makes me look like an imbecile.
So take some OTHER pictures and post those with the EXIF data. People are trying to help you here, but it's a shot in the dark without seeing what the problem(s) are that you are experiencing.


Unless by chance you have a defective unit, it's not the K-3. Moving from a K-x to a K-3 myself, my experience was that the improved quality from the K-3 magnified the deficiencies in both my lenses the operator behind the camera. Mostly the operator, though.
12-14-2014, 05:53 PM   #40
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Thank you again everyone but lets close this thread. Have to say, this is the most helpful forum I've ever been in, so believe me when I say Thank you!

Still on the fence as to whether I'll keep it. I got the Silver limited edition and it sure looks nice. And, if I had the money, I'd keep it for outdoor shooting and buy a Sony a7s for indoors (which is really all its good for, low light that is) . Also have to consider if my computer can keep up or my software... although I have an iMac 3Ghz i7 w/ 12gigs of RAM & Adobe CS5.5, I thought it wouldn't be a problem.

Anyways, not too heartbroken. My K-x has been wonderful & hope to get many more years out of it if I decide to send it back.

Thank you again.
12-16-2014, 10:13 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
Another thing to be aware of with the K-3 AF is to make sure you aren't randomly moving the AF point or AF group around. ...camera gives me the option to move that 9 point cluster around, rather than set it centered to start with."td; dr - there are a lot of powerful options with the K-3 AF. More room to make mistakes even for experienced users, unfortunately.
I've run in this issue myself. My favorite solution (and I do a lot of photography of indoor competitive cheer leading) is to use spot focus, and then I use the back focus button only (custom function: turn the primary focus on the shutter release off). The problem I have is that I'm looking at a line of fast moving people and I want to focus on a specific stunt or move that is sometimes centered on an individual.

I know the routine and what the girls are going to do next, I would never trust the camera to make that decision for me. I've tried some of the other focus modes, and also have had the focus group move around too much as I accidentally try to reset color balance.

I think what makes so many of the individual techniques usable in the K-3 is that they are so accessible without going through all of the menus, but I'd suggest just getting used to the focus button on the back, and using the center focus (spot) point only. Point, focus and recompose in a fraction of a second. That way you'll be as precise as a surgeon when trying to focus on the one individual in a crowd of 10 or 15.
01-09-2015, 07:49 AM   #42
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Thank you again for being the most helpful forum I've ever been in.

Just to update, I did send it back. I bought a K-5 IIs and have been loving it since day one. Getting the pics I want.

In all fairness, probably had a bad K3 unit but the experience will keep me from buying another. I'll skip it and keep the K-5 IIs til it to begins to fade (loved my K-x).

Interestingly, the K5 has many of the hardware features I liked on the K3 & only half of the software features I hated on the K3.

Too many bells & whistles IMO on the K3 or just a bad unit.

Thank you again for all your help!

Last edited by MyTZuS; 01-09-2015 at 07:51 AM. Reason: info
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