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03-04-2015, 05:06 PM   #16
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When I got my K3, I was struggling to not get blurry photos at similar shutter speeds to what I was using with my K5. I had basically determined that for my standard shooting that 1/FL was ok, but I should always keep my shots faster than 1/100 because the shots slower than that were blurry no matter the focal length....

That being said, I must have been having a bad day, week, month because more recently I've been able to shoot like I had with the K5 before. It's still about 1/FL, but I'm able to get away with shots slower than 1/100.

AND, to wrap it all up... what you really can get away with really depends on you. I applaud those on this forum that consistently show great shots at speeds lower than 1/30 (1/10, 1/8, 1/4, etc). I occasionally have shots work to 1/8, but it is quite rare. I'm not a steady person at all, but I sure wish I was. My keeper rate at slower than 1/FL is probably only 5% (at best).

03-04-2015, 05:31 PM   #17
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This is a seriously dummed down question (no offence meant)

As an example.....in my own case.....for 95+% of what I do the shots are redundant hobbiest shots.....ie if I get the moment or not there is no real consequence......I can occasionally get great 300mm shots at silly low shutter speads (< say 1/50s.....if no subject movement)....for these shots I'll probally be on continous burst shooting and take a 5 or so shot burst using best available techniche.....BUT for the must get shots..(the 5%)...for whatever reason......would I shoot <1/200 or so......OR. accept a higher ISO..... or maybe less DoF? Or even have planned the shot better for more light (artificial or natural)? What do you reckon?

Last edited by noelpolar; 03-04-2015 at 05:46 PM.
03-04-2015, 06:06 PM   #18
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A lot depends on you and on how steady your hands are. I find that I can usually use 1/10 second with shake reduction on with a 40 to 50mm focal length and get quite sharp photos. But each person is different.

I mainly use that for waterfalls.



03-06-2015, 02:30 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by noelpolar Quote
This is a seriously dummed down question (no offence meant)

As an example.....in my own case.....for 95+% of what I do the shots are redundant hobbiest shots.....ie if I get the moment or not there is no real consequence......I can occasionally get great 300mm shots at silly low shutter speads (< say 1/50s.....if no subject movement)....for these shots I'll probally be on continous burst shooting and take a 5 or so shot burst using best available techniche.....BUT for the must get shots..(the 5%)...for whatever reason......would I shoot <1/200 or so......OR. accept a higher ISO..... or maybe less DoF? Or even have planned the shot better for more light (artificial or natural)? What do you reckon?
I think it just depends on the shot. Does accepting less DoF ruin the shot? do you need the shutter speed? I really think we should be thinking about the combination of shutter speed and aperture we want for a shot as a first priority (or at least one of these two). The ISO would be secondary and should come into play in terms of whether you think it's too high (and thus adjusting the aperture or shutter speed to make the shot) or whether you need to stick with your target parameter and let the ISO go up.

Personally, if you have a K5 or newer camera, I wouldn't worry much about ISO much. I wish I would have realized this a few years ago, but since getting the K3, I've been finding that I can get pretty acceptable shots (on print and even on screen) out to ISO 12800 and even occasionally higher. I went back and did the same with my K5 and realize I could have been shooting that way before too. I was too often compromising on my shutter speed and aperture to keep ISO down. Now I don't worry about it.

Consequently TAv is now my favored mode (or straight up M mode).

03-06-2015, 02:42 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
For hand-holding @ slower shutter speeds, old advice: take two quick deep breaths; take a third, exhale half then hold your breath; steady and shoot before your face turns purple.
As in rifle shooting, hold your breath and gently squeeze the trigger. Do not pull, or in the case of a camera shutter release button, mash the button. Slow and gentle wins the target.
03-06-2015, 02:48 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by waterfall Quote
As in rifle shooting, hold your breath and gently squeeze the trigger. Do not pull, or in the case of a camera shutter release button, mash the button. Slow and gentle wins the target.

With really long hand-held exposures, it also helps if you can shut down your pulse for a minute or so.
03-07-2015, 04:56 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
With really long hand-held exposures, it also helps if you can shut down your pulse for a minute or so.
Every time 'Keeping Up With The Kardashians' comes on TV my pulse almost comes to a complete stop, Wpresto!
03-07-2015, 06:05 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Every time 'Keeping Up With The Kardashians' comes on TV my pulse almost comes to a complete stop, Wpresto!
Over and over for so long the question arises: "Who are the Kardashians, that anyone should be mindful of them?" No satisfactory answer.

03-07-2015, 07:12 AM   #24
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For us more senior citizens, the Kardashians are famous just like the Gabor sisters were famous. They are famous for being famous.
03-07-2015, 07:25 AM   #25
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Definitely depends on the individual and some 'luck factors' like good technique, concentrating, skipping that third coffee, remembering to switch shake reduction on..... and so on.

One thing I personally found is that a monopod (while helping with the weight of the lens) is not that much of an answer for me when shooting longer than about 50mm. Probably my bad - but adding a grip and being careful with my stance gives me better results with none of the inconvenience of the monopod/head.
03-07-2015, 07:48 AM   #26
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I shoot the way I did with my K-5 and K-20D I almost always select an Aperture and let the speed thing fall where it may. My question is usually will I have to use a tripod to get an exposure. The exception bing shooting small birds where I like to have shutter speed of 1/1000 or faster. But that often means very narrow DoF and part of the bird out of focus. Off the tripod I will shoot to 1/15 second with any lens, and 1/8 with short focal lengths. But I shoot in burst mode and hope for the best, and the K-3 has a faster burst, so vastly increases my odds. I've had many 2 second 8 shots bursts where the 8th is the keeper. The K-3 hasn't changed that at all. But the 23 shot buffer has greatly increased my odds of ending up with a keeper. And I've had sequences where 8-10 shots in a row are all keepers.
03-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by gaweidert Quote
For us more senior citizens, the Kardashians are famous just like the Gabor sisters were famous. They are famous for being famous.
Well, at least the Gabor sisters had a charming accent.


Steve
03-10-2015, 11:06 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by johnc Quote
Definitely depends on the individual and some 'luck factors' like good technique, concentrating, skipping that third coffee, remembering to switch shake reduction on..... and so on.

One thing I personally found is that a monopod (while helping with the weight of the lens) is not that much of an answer for me when shooting longer than about 50mm. Probably my bad - but adding a grip and being careful with my stance gives me better results with none of the inconvenience of the monopod/head.
But, with a monopod, shake reduction should be off for best results.
03-10-2015, 11:17 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
But, with a monopod, shake reduction should be off for best results.
Absolutely. I never really got along with my monopod. For me, they are useful to stop you getting tired while holding heavy lenses in one position for a while. Also, the longer ones can get you higher vantage points for 'over the crowd' shots.

But if I'm looking simply for shake reduction and sharpness purposes, I'd choose a grip or a tripod over a monopod any day. YMMV- Maybe some others can get more value out of them!
03-10-2015, 02:46 PM   #30
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The follow on question I have... What kind of real world performance have you found for the SR system (in number of stops) on a K-3?
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