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05-17-2015, 11:35 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
I guess he was expecting "yes, the K-3 is a terrible camera, I now use mine as a doorstop." type answers.
I used mine as a hammer the other day. The magnesium alloy chassis makes it great for pounding those 16 penny nails in fast and deep.

Oh, wait, I don't have a K3.

But the K5IIs is a great camera.

05-17-2015, 11:37 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
I guess he was expecting "yes, the K-3 is a terrible camera, I now use mine as a doorstop." type answers.
Sounds like seeking agreement rather than a solution.
05-17-2015, 11:56 AM - 1 Like   #33
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Im Dropping out of this Forum Too ! Right after I get my K3II delivered and hit the Road for at least 4 months !
05-17-2015, 12:01 PM - 1 Like   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by jhc403 Quote
While it feels well built I am not happy with the results I get it take no better pictures than my with my KX. In low light it is better than the KX.
I'm sorry to hear you're disappointed, however I'd politely disagree I moved to a K3 from a K-r (essentially the same as a K-x with only minor differences that are unrelated to image quality) and the K3 does take better images - from a technical perspective, that is.

First of all, there are numerous advantages that are unrelated to image quality but still help you to take better pictures. Vastly superior AF module, more direct controls (second control dial etc.), weather sealing, more precise metering, convenient functions (automated exposure bracketing, time lapse etc.) and so on.

Now let's have a look at image quality. If you go outside on a sunny day, take pretty much any modern camera (compact, APS-C, FF, whatever), randomly aim it at something and take a picture you will see little differences, because a bright, evenly lit scene is no challenge. It's challenging conditions where better cameras shine.

1) As you mentioned yourself, the K3 has better low-light performance than the K-x. Set both of them to ISO 3200, take identical pictures and the K3 will show significantly less noise.

2) Another aspect where the K3 excels is dynamic range. Take both cameras, take a picture each of a landscape on a bright day (exposing for the sky/highlights), then pull up the shadows in PP and compare the results. There will be less noise and less loss of details with the K3.

3) The K3 also produces more detailed images. Take both cameras, mount a decent lens and use it at its sweet spot and the K3 will deliver sharper/more detailed results, thanks to its higher resolution (24 MP vs. 12 MP) and lack of an AA filter.

That's three important fields in which the K3 trounces the K-x. If you didn't notice these advantages after you upgraded, chances are none of them matters for your shooting style (you don't shoot scenes with vast dynamic ranges, you don't shoot in dark places, you never crop), you don't post-process your images to get the most out of them, your lenses aren't up to scratch and take little advantage of the extra resolution or all of the above

05-17-2015, 12:03 PM - 1 Like   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by jhc403 Quote
I did not join the forum to be ridiculed I am dropping out and saying the hell with this forum
We are TRYING to help you ! Attitude is priority number one when asking for help. Suck it up....post some images with specific concerns.......and we will bend over backwards to get you on the right track ! I feel free to say this as I was in your shoes for a while. I had to drop my know-it-all attitude and now am a "Happy Camper" ! You aren't the first.....and you wont be the last........ Its all up to YOU.
05-17-2015, 12:04 PM - 4 Likes   #36
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I've owned several Pentax cameras, starting with the DS, K10D, K20D, K5 and now the K5IIs. All of them were defective when it came to getting great and remarkable shots. I've used my friends Canons and Nikons on several occasions, and found them to have the same defects. I even shot with a Fuji X-T1 another friend owns, and I'll be damned, it was just as bad.

Squirrels say there is a common link to this problem, but I swear I can't find it?
Otis says reading my manual might be a good place to start, and following some of the help threads here instead of just running my big mouth and posting my shots of birdies, when everyone knows people want to see handsome squirrels, not common ordinary birdies.

Just use the K3 a while, give it a good workout, get used to the differences, and see what happens. I'm getting better with my new K5IIs....Otis gave me a D+ on this one I just shot this morning. He said it was another F but he raised it some because it had a peanut in it!



Best Regards & Good Luck!
05-17-2015, 12:09 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rupert Quote
Squirrels say there is a common link to this problem, but I swear I can't find it?
Otis says reading my manual might be a good place to start, and following some of the help threads here instead of just running my big mouth and posting my shots of birdies, when everyone knows people want to see handsome squirrels, not common ordinary birdies.

One of Otis's friends paid a visit yesterday. He came down the chimney, knocked the exhaust pipe off the hot water heater, then tore around the patio for a bit. My cousin opened the front door and he went right out.

Maybe this can be the new "Won't buy a K-3 thread" and slip past the mods
05-17-2015, 12:18 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rupert Quote
All of them were defective when it came to getting great and remarkable shots. I've used my friends Canons and Nikons on several occasions, and found them to have the same defects. I even shot with a Fuji X-T1 another friend owns, and I'll be damned, it was just as bad
Squirrels say there is a common link to this problem, but I swear I can't find it?
Otis says reading my manual might be a good place to start, and following some of the help threads here instead of just running my big mouth and posting my shots of birdies, when everyone knows people want to see handsome squirrels, not common ordinary birdies.
Just use the K3 a while, give it a good workout, get used to the differences, and see what happens. I'm getting better with my new K5IIs....Otis gave me a D+ on this one I just shot this morning. He said it was another F but he raised it some because it had a peanut in it! Best Regards & Good Luck!
I Swear he is laughing at me ! Remove that creature...NOW ! I had nightmares about Squirrels last night and now I know its all your fault !

---------- Post added 05-18-15 at 03:20 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
Maybe this can be the new "Won't buy a K-3 thread" and slip past the mods
I doubt that. I just hope we DONT get any IQ points added to our profile's.....lol.

05-17-2015, 01:10 PM - 1 Like   #39
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Some people are unable to use a thumb rule, like the 1/CropFactor(FL) to calculate a minimum shutter speed. There is an actual condition of math disability. My wife was tested at a clinic for that and was diagnosed with it after spending a childhood being lectured by her math proficient father. But in return, nature gave her a memory thats like an encyclopedia. Friends and family consult her when they want a quick answer on some subject - but not math.

When i first got my K10 in combination with a Tamron 18-250, i had fuzzy pictures. I clamped it on a tripod and the resulting sharp pictures hit me with the idea that i had user error. Then i realized that SR, VR, OIS are not going to solve all sharpness problems.

Folks get these large range zoom lens, like me, and then wonder why the pics from the long end are so soft. I eventually gave the large zoom to my nephew, realizing that i was never going to move on to other lenses with it around.

I would be lost without the ability to use the basic shutter speed/focal length thumb rule. One of the members of our photography club, i suspect, also has a math problem. She's a degreed artist in painting and other media, but has a difficult time getting sharp pictures. In desperation, after explaining the thumb rule several times, i one time told her to always use 1/500s minmum. And she agreed that was helping. Now she's in the process of moving from APS D7000, to FF because someone told her it would get her sharper pictures. She just tried the Sony A7mkII and couldn't get sharp images with that. So sent the Sony back and is now going to buy the D750 so she can get those sharp images. People seem to be relying totally on these shake reduction type features, and they don't always work in all situations.

PS - love my K3 and its sharp pictures.

Last edited by philbaum; 05-17-2015 at 01:19 PM.
05-17-2015, 01:23 PM - 1 Like   #40
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Lots of preaching to the choir going on here since the OP has left the building.
05-17-2015, 01:25 PM - 2 Likes   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by robtcorl Quote
Lots of preaching to the choir going on here since the OP has left the building.
Most of us are just following Otis !
05-17-2015, 01:28 PM - 2 Likes   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbaum Quote
Some people are unable to use a thumb rule, like the 1/CropFactor(FL) to calculate a minimum shutter speed. There is an actual condition of math disability. My wife was tested at a clinic for that and was diagnosed with it after spending a childhood being lectured by her math proficient father. But in return, nature gave her a memory thats like an encyclopedia. Friends and family consult her when they want a quick answer on some subject - but not math.

When i first got my K10 in combination with a Tamron 18-250, i had fuzzy pictures. I clamped it on a tripod and the resulting sharp pictures hit me with the idea that i had user error. Then i realized that SR, VR, OIS are not going to solve all sharpness problems.

Folks get these large range zoom lens, like me, and then wonder why the pics from the long end are so soft. I eventually gave the large zoom to my nephew, realizing that i was never going to move on to other lenses with it around.

I would be lost without the ability to use the basic shutter speed/focal length thumb rule. One of the members of our photography club, i suspect, also has a math problem. She's a degreed artist in painting and other media, but has a difficult time getting sharp pictures. In desperation, after explaining the thumb rule several times, i one time told her to always use 1/500s minmum. And she agreed that was helping. Now she's in the process of moving from APS D7000, to FF because someone told her it would get her sharper pictures. She just tried the Sony A7mkII and couldn't get sharp images with that. So sent the Sony back and is now going to buy the D750 so she can get those sharp images. People seem to be relying totally on these shake reduction type features, and they don't always work in all situations.

PS - love my K3 and its sharp pictures.
Caveat: 1/focal length is of course based on a certain viewing distance and a certain print size.
If someone thinks more resolution means more cropping leeway without modifying that rule of thumb accordingly, they'll surely be disappointed...
Just one example of what could go wrong in the transition (another one could be that the lenses can't resolve that much).
05-17-2015, 01:32 PM - 2 Likes   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dlanor Sekao Quote
Most of us are just following Otis !
FYI, Otis passed away 3 years ago.
Rupert had him stuffed and has been posing him since then.
05-17-2015, 01:37 PM - 1 Like   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by jhc403 Quote
the results I get it take no better pictures than my with my KX.
Parity is a good start. Many users claim they get worse results than with their previous camera. The temptation is to simply state that the primary limitation to most photographic systems is the person behind the camera. While this is often true, saying so is not kind and maybe not even true. That being said, my experience going from a K10D to the K-3 was:
  • The user experience was night and day difference between the two cameras. The K10D was and still is a very capable and well-built tool. The K-3 is simply more sophisticated in every way
  • Initially, my images were about the same quality as with the K10D. This was particularly true for in-camera JPEG and shots sized for publication to the Web.
  • With practice and time with the camera, I realized that the higher resolution merely allowed me to see the faults in technique and optics that were there all along. When I had my act together and when shooting with my best lenses, the was no disputing the quality of the results.
  • The K-3 is less forgiving of camera/subject motion than your K-x. There are limits to what can be done with SR. Respect those limits and you will reap a dividend. The same is true of focus.
  • The K-3 will not make your lenses less capable, though some of your lenses will not give as good a result as some of the better optics that are available. The general rule is that you can expect at results at least as good from an image downsized to your K-x's resolution as you got from the same lens on the K-x.
  • There may be some happy surprises in your lens bag. I was pleased to find that my KMZ MC Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye provides results on the K-3 that are far beyond what it delivered on the K10D. That is pretty cool for a relatively inexpensive lens.
  • There may also be some disappointments in your lens bag. I found that a couple of my lenses were essentially at their limits with the K10D.
  • Attention to focus technique and minimizing camera motion (breath control and such) will pay off


Steve
05-17-2015, 02:13 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by robtcorl Quote
Lots of preaching to the choir going on here since the OP has left the building.
I imagine that there are lots of readers out there doing research on whether there are problems with the K3 or K3II. I've always done that when considering a camera i know nothing about. Titles like this one catch attention.
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