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06-03-2015, 06:04 AM   #31
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Has the whole mirror issue been resolved as of now?

I worry about buying a used K-3 from the Marketplace that was purchased back in 2013...

Again, probably smart to just buy new at this low price.
Ahh, but then again there could be some sweet package during Black Friday this year! too many decisions...

06-03-2015, 06:13 AM   #32
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I would suggest waiting for Black Friday sales. Four months isn't that far too wait.
06-03-2015, 06:32 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by howieb101 Quote
I would suggest waiting for Black Friday sales. Four months isn't that far too wait.
Wow, this year is flying by! lol

I probably should just wait... The K-30 is still an incredible camera and will do me well for the next few months.
Maybe they'll do a Black Friday Deal like: "K-3 with BG-5 and FA31 ~ $1100"

THAT will be the day....
06-03-2015, 08:04 AM   #34
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Just want to thank the PF community for all your help!!

I'll be waiting until this holiday season rolls around in hopes of grabbing a K-3 at an even cheaper price (hard to imagine it will drop any further, but Black Friday sales always bring something!)

During the next few months I can really hone in on my skills with the gear I have.
I'll have to fight my LBA and keep this pile of cash for my future K-3.

I think my Bigma/K-30 will keep me well occupied over the next few months.
I will definitely miss the opportunity to shoot the K-3 in Montana this summer; but luckily my family lives out there so it won't be the last time I shoot at Yellowstone!

Cheers everyone!
Thanks again for the words of wisdom!

06-03-2015, 08:50 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by UserAccessDenied Quote
Maybe it's worth buying new than...
I see K-3 body only on here alot around $600.
But for $749 I can get a brand new K-3 with battery grip and warranty... Seems like a no-brainer?
I'd say so! I bought a grip from eBay for $100 so for only $50 more getting a new one and full warranty sounds like the way to go.

I got one of the early K-3s and saw the mirror problem one time. I upgraded the firmware and never saw it a again. I take a lot of photos too.
06-03-2015, 12:20 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by UserAccessDenied Quote
Maybe it's worth buying new than...
I see K-3 body only on here alot around $600.
But for $749 I can get a brand new K-3 with battery grip and warranty... Seems like a no-brainer?
...and if the grip does not work for you, there are forum members who will be willing to buy it from you for a price that is good for both of you.

As for the runaway mirror issue...buy the 2 year warranty extension as cheap insurance. Good idea anyway regardless of brand or model.


Steve

(...has big hands, but the grip simply did not work well...grip goes to good home...)
06-03-2015, 03:56 PM   #37
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The price is not going to go down much if at all. You tend to see that half of original market is about as low as it can go. Once discontinued, the price tends to rise slightly (supply and demand). Of course, bundling has an impact. I happened to get mine when the $400 closeout flash bundled for $50, and the grip was free. Needed neither and got the body for well less than $600 net with 2-year extended warranty after bundle sell-off - but that took some work on my part to get done. Don't worry about the mirror flop issue. If you experience it (unlikely on newer units that have a better hardware design), the firmware does not allow the camera to self-destruct. So, possible inconvenience but not anything that will require repair.

As for the original post, coming from the K-30 (as I did) there is a real learning curve. The AF options are much more demanding, and it is helpful to take advantage of the variations as needed. You need to take greater care of focus precision (AF or MF) to get the most out of the point of focus. Especially when using wide apertures, using center focus and recomposing is just too sloppy. Either MF, or use the correct AF point for framing. Use the back AF button only for AF - disable the shutter release half-push function.

I find it a little more difficult to prevent shake (even with SR on), so use a slightly higher shutter speed than with the K-30 - at least until you get fully used to the camera handling.

Another thing is check the exposure. The only downside to the K-3 is that it will tend to overexposure in some situations (especially in TAv - which I use extensively). When in doubt, underexpose by -0.7 in high-contrast situations. Use Auto HC (highlight compensation) at all times. It will only trigger when you absolutely need it - saving you from blow outs.

This sounds like a lot, but the K-3 will make you very happy in so many other ways - build, features, feel, quietness, long battery life (an eternity compared to the K-30).
06-04-2015, 02:36 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by ScooterMaxi Jim Quote
...You need to take greater care of focus precision (AF or MF) to get the most out of the point of focus. Especially when using wide apertures, using center focus and recomposing is just too sloppy. Either MF, or use the correct AF point for framing...
What issues are you having when you use the center focus point and recompose? I know there are technicalities regarding parallax and other scientific principles with regards to differences in focus when you change the angle of your camera, but in practice I've never noticed this. Do you notice the difference only in certain situations like pixel peeping, macro shots, or landscapes with very sharp lenses with very wide apertures?

I'm not arguing the science because I understand the optical physics behind the idea, I'm just asking if it actually makes much if any difference in practice.

06-04-2015, 08:08 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by TheOneAndOnlyJH Quote
What issues are you having when you use the center focus point and recompose? I know there are technicalities regarding parallax and other scientific principles with regards to differences in focus when you change the angle of your camera, but in practice I've never noticed this. Do you notice the difference only in certain situations like pixel peeping, macro shots, or landscapes with very sharp lenses with very wide apertures?

I'm not arguing the science because I understand the optical physics behind the idea, I'm just asking if it actually makes much if any difference in practice.
Its primarily an issue with fast lenses set at relatively wide apertures. You can also run into it when you're using ultra-wides at the f-stops close to wide open. These UWA primes and zooms can have huge variations in focus distance as you move away from the center. The Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is quite famous for the field curvature problem (on a lens that is otherwise excellent optically). From a practical standpoint, it isn't going to spoil many shots. It is enough of a problem, that I get a bit nervous when I shift - rather than do it right in the first place. If I'm nervous, then I just don't perform to my best on a shoot. So, a good part of the concern is a matter of confidence - based on a good understanding of how to shoot the right way.
06-05-2015, 06:31 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by ScooterMaxi Jim Quote
Its primarily an issue with fast lenses set at relatively wide apertures. You can also run into it when you're using ultra-wides at the f-stops close to wide open. These UWA primes and zooms can have huge variations in focus distance as you move away from the center. The Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is quite famous for the field curvature problem (on a lens that is otherwise excellent optically). From a practical standpoint, it isn't going to spoil many shots. It is enough of a problem, that I get a bit nervous when I shift - rather than do it right in the first place. If I'm nervous, then I just don't perform to my best on a shoot. So, a good part of the concern is a matter of confidence - based on a good understanding of how to shoot the right way.
That's somewhat what I expected. I haven't noticed any issues with my 18-135, but the widest aperture is F/3.5. I also have a 70-300 f/4-5.6, but that wouldn't fall under wide-angle or wide aperture, so I haven't seen it there either. I'll have to keep this in mind when the 17-50 F/2.8 makes its way from my wishlist into my camera bag though.

All of my other lenses are manual focus primes and wide zooms. I don't use the camera focus points but sometimes I focus and recompose. I'm still getting used to focusing with the standard focusing screen though, so if I didn't nail focus I've been chalking it up to poor lighting and the 160 lb problem behind the viewfinder.
06-05-2015, 07:55 AM   #41
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I do a lot of shooting with manual focus lenses, so obviously if I need to confirm focus the center spot is the only one available to me through the viewfinder. This is how the habit of focus and shift framing tends to get repeated. For critical manual shooting at wider apertures (especially the 85 f/1.4), I find that using live view and some magnification improves the keeper rate substantially. Many Pentaxians shy away from using live view based on traditionalism, and that's fine but you can just miss great opportunities that way.
06-07-2015, 09:07 PM   #42
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I've come from film to a K10D to recently getting a K3 a couple of months ago. The K10D to K3 transition did take a little getting used to...there are a lot of new features that have come out since 2006! That being said, most things have been fairly intuitive, and once you customize your button settings the way you want, shooting becomes a very symbiotic relationship between man and machine camera.
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