Originally posted by derekkite Can anyone with a K3ii test whether shutter vibration is different than the K3?
I put my K3 on a solid tripod, long lens, then using an IR remote took shots from 1/50 to 1/2500 shutter speed. The harmonic will be different with each lens, but there was a noticeable softness below 1/1000 and quite soft below 1/250. Live view on the K3 has negligable vibration.
I'm curious if there has been any changes.
I haven't seen any indication that the K3II uses a different shutter/mirror mechanism, so it seems unlikely that there will be any difference, as Adam suggests. However, one thing which would make a difference is the electronic shutter available on the II. I haven't been able to determine whether ES can be engaged for normal shooting though, or whether it is only available in pixel shift mode. If it's the former, then this should completely eliminate any vibration problems, if used with mirror lock. Your only problem would be rolling shutter effect in moving subjects. If it's the latter, it could still be used but you would have to extract a single frame from the (very large) raw file.
However, given your description of the difference between live view and viewfinder shooting, it sounds like the vibrations you are getting are coming from the mirror not the shutter, assuming you weren't using mirror lock. If so you should try using mirror lock when shooting through the viewfinder.
Another thing you could try is to engage SR, which may actually help in the higher shutter speeds, despite this being contrary to popular wisdom that you should not use SR on a tripod.
Finally, changing the resonance characteristics of your tripod support could help. A very heavy and solid setup transmits the first vibration back to the camera quicker than a sloppy setup, meaning that the camera can actually move more within very short exposures. It's worth doing some further tests at the higher speeds either with a lighter tripod or with the column extended. I have also found that it's better at the higher speeds to use the normal shutter release and actually apply some downwards pressure to the camera. You will get more movement overall, but potentially less within the short exposure period.