Originally posted by UncleVanya It will work fine.
---------- Post added 07-23-16 at 10:47 PM ----------
To add color to this. Formatting in camera is preferred by a lot of people but I honestly put zero stock in it. I agree that formatting a card is worth doing in camera if you can but it's a very low risk activity since that format must by definition be portable and work over many systems - it's simply FAT 32 these days and commonly used. Format it - copy the file and you should not have a bit of problem. After the update is complete you might have her reformat in camera to be sure she can use it for pictures but even that is a bit of overkill.
Absolutely. Given the amount of time it takes to format a card in camera only a "quick" format is being done. All this does is reset index tables and creates the DCIM folder. The first time you use a card straight from the store the DCIM folder will get created even without first formatting the card in camera.
Originally posted by UMC I think we should de-mystify the formatting process: What actually happens, is that the formatting device (whether camera or computer) blanks out the card by writing a completely new set of administrative data, in technical terms called "file system". In the good old times this used to be Microsofts "FAT16", later it became "FAT32" and nowadays it is usually "exFAT".
In any case, the exact details of how the filesystem has to look like are standardized, thus is does not make any difference, whether the card gets formatted by the camera or a PC. The only difference when formatting in the camera is, that the camera would format and automatically create the directory to store the pictures in (plus more directories in some cameras). However, these directories are not required during the firmware upgrade and all cameras that I know will create these directories automatically when inserting the card.
As noted above a "quick" format mere re-set, re-writes the index tables often call File Allocation Tables (FAT). A full format (which people commonly mistakenly call a "low level format") will re-write all the logical file structures on the disk - FAT, sectors etc. A true low level format is done at the hardware level and creates the cylinder/tracks that read/write head uses to position. Since there are no moving parts in solid state media the "virtual" cylinders are defined in the controller chip.
Back in the IBM XP days (early 80s) there was enough tolerance variance between the controller card and the hard drive (10 Megabyte drive would set you back a few thousand dollars) that in order to get the best performance and stability there was a one-to-one relationship between the card and drive. The drive should be low-level formatted using the card it was connected to. Changing the card or drive the drive again should be low level formatted. A low level format could take hours or even days with some of the later larger disks (40 MB). As manufacturing improved low-level formats outside the factory became unnecessary. Low and full formats also checks for defects in the media.
Here's a far from perfect analogy for analog discs at least:
- A drive before low level formatting is like a piece of plywood.
- Low level formatting adds shelves to the plywood. (on solid state drives this is defined in the controller)
- Full format (logical) adds bins or pigeon holes and creates an index to track the contents of the bins.
- Quick Format gives you a fresh (blank) copy of the index.
The analogy is imperfect because with pigeon holes you have to physically remove the contents before putting anything else in there where as on a drive/card you can merely overwrite the contents. I left out partitioning the drive which you can define the size of the "bins" (sectors) and total size of the logical drive before doing a full format.
If you suspect corruption a quick format is not going to find problems since it does not check for defects. It may solve logical corruption since the card will be treated as blank and anything on it will be overwritten. If you think the card is going bad you need to do read/write checks and a full format. I would use SDFormatter which uses the SD standards to format the card. Doing a full format from your computer OS will add OS specific structures and may cause comparability issues when put in the camera.
https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/