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05-16-2019, 04:50 AM   #1
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Cleaning Sensor

After having had the K20D for 11 years, I recently purchased the K3II.


During the years I have had great succes using Sensor Swabs and Eclipse cleaning fluid or later on APS-C Sensor cleaning swab kit with swabs already moist with cleaning fluid and seal-packed for cleaning the sensor in the K20D.

Now, in the manual for the K3II, the only solution for cleaning sensor, except the in-camera dust remove process, is the Pentax O-ICK1.

Is it now a NO-GO to use sensor swab cleaning for the K3II?

05-16-2019, 06:28 AM   #2
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yes, the sensor will disintegrate..

don't worry about it. you will be equally succesfull
05-16-2019, 06:42 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by grispie Quote
yes, the sensor will disintegrate..

don't worry about it. you will be equally succesfull
I hope you were joking. The sensor will not disintegrate. It might get messier, but the sensor will not disintegrate. If you're K-3ii has the clear dust on it from start up to shut down, like my K-50 does, I'd use that, and not worry about dust, and always change lenses with the camera pointed down so the open part is pointed toward the ground or bottom. Never change lenses in dusty environments, rain environments, etc. you'll be same.

And I use the O-icky1 stick on my K-50 and K-5 and have not had any problems on either.
05-16-2019, 06:58 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
I hope you were joking. The sensor will not disintegrate. It might get messier, but the sensor will not disintegrate.
for the record: it was a joke.. :-)

05-16-2019, 07:01 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by grispie Quote
for the record: it was a joke.. :-)
That's why they make emoji's. So we can tell it's a joke or not. Or you could have put LOL after the statement, then OP would have known you were kidding. Not everyone speaks English here.
05-16-2019, 07:26 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by niklas Quote
After having had the K20D for 11 years, I recently purchased the K3II.


During the years I have had great succes using Sensor Swabs and Eclipse cleaning fluid or later on APS-C Sensor cleaning swab kit with swabs already moist with cleaning fluid and seal-packed for cleaning the sensor in the K20D.

Now, in the manual for the K3II, the only solution for cleaning sensor, except the in-camera dust remove process, is the Pentax O-ICK1.

Is it now a NO-GO to use sensor swab cleaning for the K3II?
This always sends people into fits, but my go-to tool for when the self cleaning doesn't dislodge a hunk of grot is canned gas.
People freak out, but I've been doing it for over a decade with no problems.
If canned gas doesn't do it them I move to a sensor swab and wet cleaning.
I have my camera set to clean on startup and shutdown and I have very few problems with dust.
05-16-2019, 07:36 AM   #7
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If you chose the canned air method, press the trigger before you stick the canned air nozzle inside your camera first thing. I made this mistake not on the sensor but inside the mirror box and ended up with spider webs and gunk I couldn't removed on little K-x. So, just a caution on using canned air. I'm careful now, I sqirt outside the camera before squirting inside. Course now I have the O-ick1 stick, I don't use canned air on my cameras, just my computers. And I still use the same precautions.
05-16-2019, 08:21 AM   #8
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Another reason canned gas is not recommended is that sometimes the filter isn't sealed well and you actually blow dust behind the filter. Fixing that is either an ordeal or costly. I have never seen this happen on a Pentax, but have seen it on Sony, Fuji, Panasonic and Nikon cameras.

05-16-2019, 01:06 PM   #9
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I find the Pentax O-ICK1 pretty good, and less scary than a wet swab.
05-20-2019, 01:02 PM   #10
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Just be gentle with O-ICK and cameras without classic AA filter..
05-20-2019, 01:47 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by xmeda Quote
Just be gentle with O-ICK and cameras without classic AA filter..
Don't you need to be equally gentle regardless of AA filter? The actual sensor is still protected by an IR-cut filter when there's no AA filter.

If someone did a home IR conversion and removed all the protective filters in front of the sensor, then, yes, they'd need to be very careful because the sensor is directly exposed. Commercial IR conversions usually substitute a clear glass filter for protection and for AF calibration.
05-30-2019, 05:16 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxus Quote
Another reason canned gas is not recommended is that sometimes the filter isn't sealed well and you actually blow dust behind the filter. Fixing that is either an ordeal or costly. I have never seen this happen on a Pentax, but have seen it on Sony, Fuji, Panasonic and Nikon cameras.
The same would apply to a Rocket style of blower, I suspect. I've seen them put out nearly as much pressure as a can of dust off.
06-08-2019, 04:33 AM   #13
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I was always advised not to used canned air as the air comes out at a very low temperature, and if there is any moisture in the can it will come out as very cold vapour.

I've cleaned the sensor on my K100D with cotton swabs and a very small quantity of Iso propyl alcohol (IPA) before without any issues, looking at some of the sensor cleaning solutions around they appear to comprise some form of alcohol (methanol, ethanol or IPA). Maybe I've been lucky and not had any serious issues with dust but recently I'd noticed that extreme macro images tend to have a number of dust spots on them. I've tried cleaning the outer glass on the lenses a number of times but they just won't shift so I'm thinking of cleaning the sensor again.

I've also got the K3 body but I won't go cleaning the sensor on that for a while, until I know I'm not going to damage anything.
06-28-2019, 12:29 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Paul the Sunman Quote
I find the Pentax O-ICK1 pretty good, and less scary than a wet swab.
Me too. I've tried several other methods with success, but at the end I think, O-ICK1 is the easiest and fastest way for cleaning.
07-16-2019, 07:34 PM   #15
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I think moving a lot of air is the trick. I ask my wife to get our car going precisely 19 miles an hour , though I would limit it to 30 KPH fot those outside the USA. Then, after carefully locking the mirror up I open the window and hold the camera at an angle between 20 and 24 degrees. We usually get it done within 4 or 5 blocks

Three cautions.

1. Make sure you have a good wrist strap. I made the mistake of relying on one from a discount kids store. Wasn't pretty.

2. It goes without saying you should not do this on a dirt road or on a high ozone day.

3. Finally, as my departed brother's family learned, you should not be wearing a neck strap. Not that bad of a loss, it was a Nikon.

Cheers!!!
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