Using K-3 to shoot motorsports

Shiftsport · 09-19-2019, 02:13 PM

I am a proud owner of a K-3 (just picked it up off eBay) and was wondering if anyone had tips/tricks for using it to shoot motorsports. It's a HUGE step up from my *ist D, so any help would be appreciated. Any suggested presets or initial camera settings I should be working on?

**microlight** · 09-19-2019, 02:35 PM - **1 Like**

Hi, and welcome from the UK! The K-3 is indeed a big step up from the *ist D; I went from a *ist DS to the K-5 and then to the K-3II, and there was a learning curve even from the K-5. The 24mp sensor is less forgiving and I found that it requires the use of higher shutter speeds to get sharp photos. I don't shoot motorsports so can't help there - I'm sure there's someone here who can.

**sergysergy** · 09-19-2019, 02:36 PM - **2 Likes**

I have used K-5, K-3 and K-1 for motorsports and all of them are very capable. I think settings depend on where you are and how you are shooting. I tend to do a lot of panning after pre-focusing. The lenses you are using can make a huge difference too. My favorite ones are the Sigma 70-200 and 300 2.8.

**aslyfox** · 09-19-2019, 02:40 PM - **1 Like**

you may want to check out these articles they may have helpful tips:

Guide to Camera and Autofocus Settings for Shooting Sports - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

DSLR Guide for Shooting Sports II: Horse Racing - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

______________

as well as the in depth review:

Pentax K-3 Review - Introduction | PentaxForums.com Reviews

________________________
and consider looking at various threads and photos posted in the forums showing the type of photos you want to try and sending pms to the poster

Grassroots Auto Racing - Manual focus tips - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

MAVTV IndyLights 500 - PentaxForums.com

Pentax and sports shooting - PentaxForums.com

Sahlen's Six Hours of the Glen @ Watkins Glen - PentaxForums.com

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/8...ml#post4722976

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/8...ml#post4718485

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/8...ml#post4714991

Last edited by aslyfox; 09-19-2019 at 03:18 PM.

Shiftsport · 09-19-2019, 03:28 PM

Originally posted by sergysergy

I have used K-5, K-3 and K-1 for motorsports and all of them are very capable. I think settings depend on where you are and how you are shooting. I tend to do a lot of panning after pre-focusing. The lenses you are using can make a huge difference too. My favorite ones are the Sigma 70-200 and 300 2.8.

I have the Sigma 28-200 which is my go to as I mostly shoot karting and close to the trackside. For longer stuff, i'll use my Sigma 170-500.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Paul the Sunman · 09-19-2019, 04:37 PM

There's a lot of technique involved. Obviously good light with high shutter speed is a big advantage. But shooting from the side whilst panning and shooting from the front and making sure you nail focus are very different skills. I would use Continuous autofocus for the latter, if it works well with your lens. If not, manual focus on a particular point and waiting for the car/cart to reach it might give best results. Of course, if light is good enough to stop down a bit, it will help your focus.

Good luck. Looking forward to seeing some example shots from you here on PF.

**aslyfox** · 09-19-2019, 04:45 PM

the little experience I have had

I used panning techniques and what I call location selection:

get to a corner/curve and catch the vehicle as it slows to negotiate the corner/curve and accelerates to come out

richandfleur · 09-19-2019, 08:43 PM - **1 Like**

My 2 cents on this:

K-3 is quite excellent with certain focusing aspects. It has a range of options though, and these aren't very well detailed in the manual. (Pentax weakness here, providing functions/capabilities, but not explaining how best they should be used).

I use the focusing mode that allows you to select the object to be tracked using the centre point, and then controlling how far outside the centre it will be tracked.
Others will have the detail (sorry I'm away from my camera right now to check) but it works quite well.

For panning turn off the shake reduction, and it's a bit easier to pre focus the distance to the track, and then pan on there in manual focus.

Carting / racing allows for prefocusing a bit easier, as you know where they'll be passing by. Whole scene could be in focus (f11 or more) because the background will blur with the slow shutter speed.
I think doing things like this, removing the possibility for failure, is key to achieving successful results.

bitterntwisted · 09-19-2019, 11:01 PM - **1 Like**

I shoot a fair amount of motorbikes and birds with a K3 (mk1) and novoflex 800mm follow focus vintage lens, I pick an interesting place for motorbikes and pre focus and then pan with the action.... seems to turn out a good amount of keepers....

Classic Motorbike race meet at philip island vic... - bitterntwisted's Album: Novoflex 600 follow focus shots - PentaxForums.com

C_Jones · 09-20-2019, 02:35 PM

Depending on the light available, testing for the most appropriate shutter speed, F stop and ISO will show you which settings will be accommodating. Of course you are going to want use the most appropriate shutter speed to catch the rate of motion of the subjects. Also, as has been mentioned earlier, you may want to pre-focus on an area if in case that is where you are going to attain your shot, or just follow the subject the best you can. You may want to give yourself a little extra field of view to be able to track the subject appropriately without it running out of your view too quickly. If the subjects have certain areas that show nice contrast, you may want to focus on them to attain AF easier than trying to focus on other more plainly looking features. I have a Sigma 150-500 DG OS for Pentax that I presently have on my Pentax K-5 IIs, and shooting moving objects is not difficult. I usually use Single point (center point) AF to track subjects, and also use Continuous AF mode. If the Sigma lens you have has OS (optical stabilization, switch on side of lens), you may want to make sure that you have it turned off if you are facilitating the use of the SR feature on the K-3, and the other way around if you want the lens OS on, and the SR off on the K-3. That way the two systems do not conflict with one another.

Good luck.

john5100 · 09-22-2019, 02:20 PM - **1 Like**

I've done a bit of it and it's not as easy as it looks. Very fun though.

Racing and Action | Flickr

panonski · 09-23-2019, 02:33 AM - **1 Like**

First advice
--
AVOID CONTINUOS TRACKING.
--
IF POSSIBLE - ALWAYS USE LARGER F NUMBER - LIKE f-6.7-f11
--
DO PREFOCUSING.

--
Leave buffer clearest as possible. ! AVOID RAW.

--
HIGH BURST CONTIONUOS SHOOTING - in short intervals, of 5,6 pics in a row.

--
If you use AF - put your thumb and press Magnifier button ( I think you must assign it ) to avoid new AF between the shoots, if you already nailed your focus,

OR
switch to manual, if you don't want to keep pressing that button every time you don't want losing your time, to nail AF spot.

------------------------------------

Panning technique - have nothing to do here, because you're begginer, so I will avoid explanation on that subject

**aslyfox** · 09-23-2019, 03:07 AM

Quote:

Panning is a technique that can produce amazing results (if you perfect it…. or get lucky) but is also one that can take a lot of practice to get right.

The basic idea behind panning as a technique is that you pan your camera along in time with the moving subject and end up getting a relatively sharp subject but a blurred background.

This gives the shot a feeling of movement and speed. It’s particularly useful in capturing any fast moving subject whether it be a racing car, running pet, cyclist etc.

I’ve found that panning seems to work best with moving subjects that are on a relatively straight trajectory which allows you to predict where they’ll be moving to. Objects that are moving side to side are challenging and can result in messy looking shots as the motion blur can be quite erratic. . . .

Mastering Panning - How to Photograph Moving Subjects

a simple search comes up with various articles and videos explaining the technique

https://www.google.com/search?q=panning+photography&oq=panning&aqs=chrome.5....hrome&ie=UTF-8

practice, practice, practice

practice can be key to so many things

and with digital, as oppose to film, you know the results quickly

JTninja · 09-30-2019, 12:03 AM

The K-3 is great for motorsports. I've been using it for several years, its fast, easy to use, good iso range, and decent on battery

Sebring 2019 | Flickr

tuggie76 · 09-30-2019, 07:28 AM

I don't do motorsports, but shoot a lot of planes, I've just discovered 'Expanded Autofocus'. This is under the info button and gives a fair number of options. My keeper rate since using it has increased greatly, also on an ovecast day auto iso works well.

09-19-2019, 02:13 PM	#1
Shiftsport Guest	Using K-3 to shoot motorsports I am a proud owner of a K-3 (just picked it up off eBay) and was wondering if anyone had tips/tricks for using it to shoot motorsports. It's a HUGE step up from my *ist D, so any help would be appreciated. Any suggested presets or initial camera settings I should be working on?

09-20-2019, 02:35 PM	#10
C_Jones Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: NY Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,088	Depending on the light available, testing for the most appropriate shutter speed, F stop and ISO will show you which settings will be accommodating. Of course you are going to want use the most appropriate shutter speed to catch the rate of motion of the subjects. Also, as has been mentioned earlier, you may want to pre-focus on an area if in case that is where you are going to attain your shot, or just follow the subject the best you can. You may want to give yourself a little extra field of view to be able to track the subject appropriately without it running out of your view too quickly. If the subjects have certain areas that show nice contrast, you may want to focus on them to attain AF easier than trying to focus on other more plainly looking features. I have a Sigma 150-500 DG OS for Pentax that I presently have on my Pentax K-5 IIs, and shooting moving objects is not difficult. I usually use Single point (center point) AF to track subjects, and also use Continuous AF mode. If the Sigma lens you have has OS (optical stabilization, switch on side of lens), you may want to make sure that you have it turned off if you are facilitating the use of the SR feature on the K-3, and the other way around if you want the lens OS on, and the SR off on the K-3. That way the two systems do not conflict with one another. Good luck. Last edited by C_Jones; 09-20-2019 at 02:40 PM.

09-23-2019, 02:33 AM - 1 Like	#12
panonski Pentaxian Join Date: May 2015 Location: Zagreb Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 624	First advice -- AVOID CONTINUOS TRACKING. -- IF POSSIBLE - ALWAYS USE LARGER F NUMBER - LIKE f-6.7-f11 -- DO PREFOCUSING. -- Leave buffer clearest as possible. ! AVOID RAW. -- HIGH BURST CONTIONUOS SHOOTING - in short intervals, of 5,6 pics in a row. -- If you use AF - put your thumb and press Magnifier button ( I think you must assign it ) to avoid new AF between the shoots, if you already nailed your focus, OR switch to manual, if you don't want to keep pressing that button every time you don't want losing your time, to nail AF spot. ------------------------------------ Panning technique - have nothing to do here, because you're begginer, so I will avoid explanation on that subject Last edited by panonski; 09-23-2019 at 02:46 AM.

09-23-2019, 03:07 AM	#13
aslyfox Seeker of Knowledge Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Topeka, Kansas Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 24,581	Quote: Panning is a technique that can produce amazing results (if you perfect it…. or get lucky) but is also one that can take a lot of practice to get right. The basic idea behind panning as a technique is that you pan your camera along in time with the moving subject and end up getting a relatively sharp subject but a blurred background. This gives the shot a feeling of movement and speed. It’s particularly useful in capturing any fast moving subject whether it be a racing car, running pet, cyclist etc. I’ve found that panning seems to work best with moving subjects that are on a relatively straight trajectory which allows you to predict where they’ll be moving to. Objects that are moving side to side are challenging and can result in messy looking shots as the motion blur can be quite erratic. . . . Mastering Panning - How to Photograph Moving Subjects a simple search comes up with various articles and videos explaining the technique https://www.google.com/search?q=panning+photography&oq=panning&aqs=chrome.5....hrome&ie=UTF-8 practice, practice, practice practice can be key to so many things and with digital, as oppose to film, you know the results quickly Last edited by aslyfox; 09-23-2019 at 03:16 AM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Sports The K-1 Does Motorsports - Pirelli World Challenge	WaxPhotographic	Post Your Photos!	3	08-15-2018 11:02 AM
Would a DA* 50-135mm f2.8 work fine for motorsports?	red5isalive	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	22	05-16-2018 03:20 PM
Anyone shoot motorsports/ machinery?	derelict	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	14	09-05-2013 07:05 PM
Machinery Motorsports with the DA* 50-135mm	Gaelen	Post Your Photos!	19	10-21-2010 08:51 AM
Anyone else shoot motorsports?	GirlsGoneRacin	Pentax DSLR Discussion	11	02-02-2007 02:11 PM

09-19-2019, 02:35 PM - 1 Like	#2
microlight Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Hampshire, UK Posts: 2,129	Hi, and welcome from the UK! The K-3 is indeed a big step up from the ist D; I went from a ist DS to the K-5 and then to the K-3II, and there was a learning curve even from the K-5. The 24mp sensor is less forgiving and I found that it requires the use of higher shutter speeds to get sharp photos. I don't shoot motorsports so can't help there - I'm sure there's someone here who can.

09-19-2019, 02:36 PM - 2 Likes	#3
sergysergy Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,171	I have used K-5, K-3 and K-1 for motorsports and all of them are very capable. I think settings depend on where you are and how you are shooting. I tend to do a lot of panning after pre-focusing. The lenses you are using can make a huge difference too. My favorite ones are the Sigma 70-200 and 300 2.8.

09-19-2019, 02:40 PM - 1 Like	#4
aslyfox Seeker of Knowledge Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Topeka, Kansas Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 24,581	you may want to check out these articles they may have helpful tips: Guide to Camera and Autofocus Settings for Shooting Sports - Articles and Tips \| PentaxForums.com DSLR Guide for Shooting Sports II: Horse Racing - Articles and Tips \| PentaxForums.com ______________ as well as the in depth review: Pentax K-3 Review - Introduction \| PentaxForums.com Reviews ________________________ and consider looking at various threads and photos posted in the forums showing the type of photos you want to try and sending pms to the poster Grassroots Auto Racing - Manual focus tips - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com MAVTV IndyLights 500 - PentaxForums.com Pentax and sports shooting - PentaxForums.com Sahlen's Six Hours of the Glen @ Watkins Glen - PentaxForums.com https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/8...ml#post4722976 https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/8...ml#post4718485 https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/8...ml#post4714991 Last edited by aslyfox; 09-19-2019 at 03:18 PM.

09-19-2019, 03:28 PM	#5
Shiftsport Guest	Originally posted by sergysergy I have used K-5, K-3 and K-1 for motorsports and all of them are very capable. I think settings depend on where you are and how you are shooting. I tend to do a lot of panning after pre-focusing. The lenses you are using can make a huge difference too. My favorite ones are the Sigma 70-200 and 300 2.8. I have the Sigma 28-200 which is my go to as I mostly shoot karting and close to the trackside. For longer stuff, i'll use my Sigma 170-500. Thanks for the input everyone.

09-19-2019, 04:37 PM	#6
Paul the Sunman Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Melbourne Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,843	There's a lot of technique involved. Obviously good light with high shutter speed is a big advantage. But shooting from the side whilst panning and shooting from the front and making sure you nail focus are very different skills. I would use Continuous autofocus for the latter, if it works well with your lens. If not, manual focus on a particular point and waiting for the car/cart to reach it might give best results. Of course, if light is good enough to stop down a bit, it will help your focus. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing some example shots from you here on PF.

09-19-2019, 04:45 PM	#7
aslyfox Seeker of Knowledge Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Topeka, Kansas Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 24,581	the little experience I have had I used panning techniques and what I call location selection: get to a corner/curve and catch the vehicle as it slows to negotiate the corner/curve and accelerates to come out

09-19-2019, 08:43 PM - 1 Like	#8
richandfleur Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand Photos: Albums Posts: 1,788	My 2 cents on this: K-3 is quite excellent with certain focusing aspects. It has a range of options though, and these aren't very well detailed in the manual. (Pentax weakness here, providing functions/capabilities, but not explaining how best they should be used). I use the focusing mode that allows you to select the object to be tracked using the centre point, and then controlling how far outside the centre it will be tracked. Others will have the detail (sorry I'm away from my camera right now to check) but it works quite well. For panning turn off the shake reduction, and it's a bit easier to pre focus the distance to the track, and then pan on there in manual focus. Carting / racing allows for prefocusing a bit easier, as you know where they'll be passing by. Whole scene could be in focus (f11 or more) because the background will blur with the slow shutter speed. I think doing things like this, removing the possibility for failure, is key to achieving successful results.

09-19-2019, 11:01 PM - 1 Like	#9
bitterntwisted Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 32	I shoot a fair amount of motorbikes and birds with a K3 (mk1) and novoflex 800mm follow focus vintage lens, I pick an interesting place for motorbikes and pre focus and then pan with the action.... seems to turn out a good amount of keepers.... Classic Motorbike race meet at philip island vic... - bitterntwisted's Album: Novoflex 600 follow focus shots - PentaxForums.com

09-22-2019, 02:20 PM - 1 Like	#11
john5100 Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,725	I've done a bit of it and it's not as easy as it looks. Very fun though. Racing and Action \| Flickr

09-30-2019, 12:03 AM	#14
JTninja Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: WA Photos: Gallery Posts: 176	The K-3 is great for motorsports. I've been using it for several years, its fast, easy to use, good iso range, and decent on battery Sebring 2019 \| Flickr

09-30-2019, 07:28 AM	#15
tuggie76 Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2011 Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,215	I don't do motorsports, but shoot a lot of planes, I've just discovered 'Expanded Autofocus'. This is under the info button and gives a fair number of options. My keeper rate since using it has increased greatly, also on an ovecast day auto iso works well.