[Coven]

Hello!

I would like to ask if some of you tested the IBIS performance on both standard focal length lens and telephoto. I would like to buy a good 70-200 mm zoom, and my only options are Tamron, and Sigma (both f/2.8), but since Tamron doesn't have IS, I'm curious if the IBIS will be effective on this range.

I only tested it with 50 mm lens and results were somewhere between 3.0 - 3.5 EV. I compared it to Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS (yep, I have the "before the OS purge" version) and on 50 mm Sigma's OS was like 1/3 EV better, but in 17 mm the IBIS was better (didn't take precise test, just noticed it in the field).

If somebody has a lens with a 200 mm focal length, please share your results. Thank you in advance!

[luftfluss]

With my Takumar 200/3.5 + K-3 II, I am able to shoot 1/60s reliably.

A couple years ago I tested my K-5 II + A 400/5.6 combo, and found that IBIS gave me a reliable 1 stop advantage. One stop may not sound like much, but given that I shoot mostly fidgety wildlife with my tele lenses that is enough for me.

[aslyfox]

you might want to look at this article:

Pentax Shake Reduction Tutorial
A guide on how to get the most out of in-camera stabilization
By PF Staff in Tutorial Videos on May 12, 2013

All modern Pentax DSLRs include Shake Reduction, a mechanism which stabilizes the sensor to reduce camera shake regardless of the lens being used. This means that no matter what lens you put on your Pentax, you'll enjoy image stabilization. The SR system's compensation thus enables you to capture sharp hand-held shots at 2-5 stops slower than normal. For example, a photo shot at 1/15s with SR enabled will likely be just as sharp as one shot at 1/60s or 1/120s with SR off. The latest Pentax bodies even include 5-axis stabilization!
However, in order to get the most out of the SR mechanism, there are a few things you should note. . . .

Read more at: Pentax Shake Reduction Tutorial - Tutorial Videos | PentaxForums.com

[c.a.m]

How IBIS perform on longer lenses (200 mm)?

@Coven,

I shoot with a K-3 II. In the range of 90-300mm, I can consistently achieve a 2 EV shutter speed advantage with the in-camera shake reduction. For example, at 90mm, sharp images at 1/30 s. At 300mm (DA* 300mm): 1/125 s. Across all my focal lengths (i.e., 15-300mm), I try to not push the shutter speed beyond a 2 EV limit.

My conclusion is based on applying a 1.5 crop factor to the traditional rule-of-thumb of shooting at a shutter speed of at least 1/(focal length): thus, 1/(FLx1.5) is the baseline shutter speed for comparison.


- Craig

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Last edited by c.a.m; 02-20-2020 at 05:39 PM.

[Paul the Sunman]

A major benefit of in-lens stabilisation with long lenses is that it stabilises the image you see through the viewfinder, which of course IBIS doesn't do (with an OVF). This is more an issue at 400mm+ than at 200mm.

Personally, IBIS is one of the main reasons I opted for Pentax in the first place. Having stabilisation on all lenses is a huge benefit.

[ramseybuckeye]

I've not done any scientific testing, but I remember accidentally having it off once at 300mm and the results were not good, shooting at lower speeds that were fine with SR. Once in a while I can have a day when I'm not as steady, but not that bad.

[derekkite]

I shoot the 150-450, and it works very well on the K1. With a long lens and the available movement it has limitations, but I handhold the lens with good results.

[normhead]

K-3 and DA*60-250 with the HD DA1.4 C.

280mm 1/125s



280mm 1/100s


350mm 1/250s


350mm 1/125s


On the K-1 300mm 1/30s


300mm 1/250s


300mm 1/160s
2020-02-Family-Day-AP-excurion3 by Norm Head, on Flick


Honestly, it's not something I think about much. I know it works. I set my shutter speed to try and freeze any action and for birds I like 1/1000s or more. But clearly, even down to 1/30s at 300 I'm good to go. Just shoot a short burst or 3-6 photos, one will be good.

[Fogel70]

I have not done any recent tests, but when i first got SR with my K10D i did extensive test to how much benefit I could get from IBIS.
It was 2-3 stops advantage at 400 mm. In ideal condiotions I could get up to 1/4s on K10D with a 400mm lens, but it is not ofen I try to use this long sbutter speed on long focal length as it is usually moving subjects I capture with long focal length.

But to get the most out of IBIS you need to be careful with your shooting technique.
- Stand with your side against the subject and feet separated for best balance. If possible lean against a solid subject for extra stability. Or kneel for even better stability.
- Support your elbows aganst your own body. On the arm supporting the lens try to get the elbow positioned straight under the lens, at least on a heavy lens.
- Be careful with your breathing when taking the shot. Pause your breating as you take the shot.
- Be careful not to add any camera shake pressing the shutter button.
- Notice the camera shake in the viewfinder and if possible try to time the shot when viewfinder is steady.

Being careful with your technique you can get 2-3 stops longer shutter speed than the general shutter speed rule without stabilisation, and then 2-3 additional stops with IBIS.

But it also depens conditions during the shot.
- The ground you stand on is not firm
- Too much wind
- You are tired
- You are freezing
...

[aslyfox]

I have found the suggestions in this article to be helpful when using long lenses:

Introduction

Recently, a member over in the DPReview Pentax SLR Forum was expressing his frustration with vibration control. That's when it occurred to me: there are no tutorials out there that really give an in-depth explanation as to how to improve your photography technique for those inevitably blurry long-exposures. I'm not saying said member has terrible technique, but there really isn't anything out there to address it, especially for us newbies that are just starting. . . .

I am by no measures a "pro," but I understand my fundamentals very well, and this specific set has been drilled into my head so many times that it is now second-nature. I am going to teach you how to "shoot" your camera like a high end rifle because at the end of the day, the fundamentals stay the same in every aspect. If you are an avid shooter (of the projectile type), then you do all of this probably without even thinking about it, especially if you are like some of my friends that exited the womb wielding a 30 Aught Six (7.62mm for those of you unfamiliar with American calibers).

Or, if you are like me and never touched a weapon until your adult life by way of raising your right hand, your Drill Sergeants provided that intimate, patient instruction and guidance that makes you think of warm country evenings at home with grandma: Steady Position, Breathing Control, Aiming and Sight Picture, and Trigger (Shutter) Squeeze.

Now let's break it down...



Read more at: Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - In-Depth Articles

Read more at: Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - In-Depth Articles


I try to follow the hints regardless of the amount of time of exposure

[MossyRocks]

I have an old Sigma 300mm f/4 APO Macro that I use frequently handheld. With good technique and IBIS I've gotten fairly consistent results as low as 1/30s when using it. By fairly consistent I mean that I can get about a 50% rate of having sharp images provided the object wasn't moving which is a big issue with how I use that lens. I shoot a lot of plants with it and they like to blow in the wind so being close they move in and out of the focal plane often. While this image wasn't shot a 1/30s (I think it was 1/125) it was shot hand held with that lens:

[MossyRocks]

I am going to teach you how to "shoot" your camera like a high end rifle because at the end of the day, the fundamentals stay the same in every aspect.

I've told the same thing to people a number of times. That is how I teach scouts how to shoot pictures with a camera when doing photography merit badge as well. Explaining it like that to them really helps as most of them have at least learned the basics of how to shoot rifles or shotguns at summer camp if not having actually already gotten one of those merit badges so it is something that is easier for them to understand. Follow through is probably the hardest thing for them to remember to do.

[Wingincamera]

A major benefit of in-lens stabilisation with long lenses is that it stabilises the image you see through the viewfinder, which of course IBIS doesn't do (with an OVF). This is more an issue at 400mm+ than at 200mm.
Personally, IBIS is one of the main reasons I opted for Pentax in the first place. Having stabilisation on all lenses is a huge benefit.

This was a learning experience for me when I switched from Canon to Pentax. With the Canon L 70-200 the in lens stabilization would lock the image in place, I knew it was working. When I first started with Pentax I expected the same experience, but learned you couldn't see the stabilization in the viewfinder. But the end result was the same. And now it is in all my lenses.