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05-13-2020, 07:49 AM   #1
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K3 II shutter release port issue

The other night I was out with my camera and telescope to shot some nebula. While I was swapping out a filter, I dropped the camera body about 18" to the ground. The camera appears fine, but it appears to have landed on the shutter release cable I had plugged in. Now, there is no "bite" when I try to plug in the cable and it obviously doesn't respond when I press the release on the remote. Is there an easy way to fix this? I would prefer to not have to send my camera in for repairs for something as "simple" as a dislocated connector port. That said, I would prefer even less to break my camera. I do feel comfortable working on electronics as I am a network systems engineer and no stranger to that. However, I have never disassembled a camera before. I tried to find diagrams of the camera body, but I guess that is too "sensitive" for them to release to the general public. Gotta protect that IP. Anyway, if anyone can help, that would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I guess I will have to suck it up and spend $300 to get it fixed by Ricoh's vendor.

Thanks in advance

05-13-2020, 09:27 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by deathtical Quote
The other night I was out with my camera and telescope to shot some nebula. While I was swapping out a filter, I dropped the camera body about 18" to the ground. The camera appears fine, but it appears to have landed on the shutter release cable I had plugged in. Now, there is no "bite" when I try to plug in the cable and it obviously doesn't respond when I press the release on the remote. Is there an easy way to fix this? I would prefer to not have to send my camera in for repairs for something as "simple" as a dislocated connector port. That said, I would prefer even less to break my camera. I do feel comfortable working on electronics as I am a network systems engineer and no stranger to that. However, I have never disassembled a camera before. I tried to find diagrams of the camera body, but I guess that is too "sensitive" for them to release to the general public. Gotta protect that IP. Anyway, if anyone can help, that would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I guess I will have to suck it up and spend $300 to get it fixed by Ricoh's vendor.

Thanks in advance
Did you try the shutter release on another camera? If your K-3II landed on the shutter release plug chances are that the threads in the cable or plug are damaged. You did not say in your message that the plug in port looks damaged. So perhaps the cable and plug prevented the camera from being damaged. With bite I guess you mean it sort of clicks in? If I look at the connection there is a tiny piece of metal, just like with earphones that stucks out a little bit. Is that still visible? But on the other hand the connection entrance should have been damaged visibly after catching your camera.
05-13-2020, 09:51 AM   #3
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Oh dear ... been there, done that ... just hope the shutter release socket is on a small sub-board and not fitted to the main board
05-13-2020, 09:59 AM   #4
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if not covered by warranty there are other options:

QuoteQuote:
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KEH.com (GA, Most current and vintage gear)
Eric Hendrickson (Vintage cameras, Current and vintage lenses)
Precision Camera (Authorized to perform warranty service, NC)
Advance Camera (Most current and vintage gear, Portland, OR)
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Camera Repair Japan (Services Sigma lenses and more, Atlanta, GA)
Allied Camera (MN, manual film cameras)
Bill Rogers Camera (LV, NV, film-era cameras and lenses)
Phototronic (Topeka, KS, film and digital camera repair)
Lezot's Camera Center (VT, film SLRs / medium format)

Read more at: Pentax Repair Facilities (Wordwide listing) - Page 9 - PentaxForums.com

click on link to get direct link to the providers

I have used Photronic in Topeka and was very happy with the result

http://www.phototronictopeka.com/

05-13-2020, 11:26 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by AfterPentax Quote
Did you try the shutter release on another camera? If your K-3II landed on the shutter release plug chances are that the threads in the cable or plug are damaged. You did not say in your message that the plug in port looks damaged. So perhaps the cable and plug prevented the camera from being damaged. With bite I guess you mean it sort of clicks in? If I look at the connection there is a tiny piece of metal, just like with earphones that stucks out a little bit. Is that still visible? But on the other hand the connection entrance should have been damaged visibly after catching your camera.
The "bite" I'm referring to is when you can feel the port garb the plug. Right now, when I plug it in now, it feels mushy. I have tried a few cables with the same result, so it has to be the actual port

Thanks
05-13-2020, 11:27 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
if not covered by warranty there are other options:




Read more at: Pentax Repair Facilities (Wordwide listing) - Page 9 - PentaxForums.com

click on link to get direct link to the providers

I have used Photronic in Topeka and was very happy with the result

http://www.phototronictopeka.com/
Thanks, I'll give them a call a bit later today.
05-13-2020, 01:03 PM   #7
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Worse comes to worse an IR remote may be a cheaper solution.
05-13-2020, 01:29 PM   #8
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Drop damage would not be covered under warranty.

Audio jacks are pretty simple affairs. There is usually a lever spring contact with a crook on it that catches on the indent on the plug. The frame or the lever can get bent so insufficient pressure is placed against the plug shaft at the indent. Sometimes just bending the retaining frame and spring back towards the center will fix it. You might be able to do this with a paper clip or a small jeweler's screwdriver through the opening of the jack.

Otherwise you'll have to replace the socket which should just be an off-the-shelf item. Probably surface mounted to the mainboard.

The images below should give you an idea of how these work. Notice there is a make-break contact that needs to be adjusted so it is normally closed when not plugged in.



By Iainf 03:02, 6 July 2006 (UTC) - Own work, CC BY 2.5, File:Jack-plug--socket-switch.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

05-13-2020, 04:05 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
Drop damage would not be covered under warranty.

Audio jacks are pretty simple affairs. There is usually a lever spring contact with a crook on it that catches on the indent on the plug. The frame or the lever can get bent so insufficient pressure is placed against the plug shaft at the indent. Sometimes just bending the retaining frame and spring back towards the center will fix it. You might be able to do this with a paper clip or a small jeweler's screwdriver through the opening of the jack.

Otherwise you'll have to replace the socket which should just be an off-the-shelf item. Probably surface mounted to the mainboard.

The images below should give you an idea of how these work. Notice there is a make-break contact that needs to be adjusted so it is normally closed when not plugged in.



By Iainf 03:02, 6 July 2006 (UTC) - Own work, CC BY 2.5,
I removed the bottom plate from the body as the connector is under the card reader and behind the battery. It does appear the the port "was" connected to the mainboard but is just floating around in there now. I don't want to risk doing more damage, so I closed it back up. My main frustration right now is that when I call repair companies, they say they have to have it in hand to give a quote, which I think is utter BS. I can explain the issue quite clearly and technically. I should think that if this is what they do for a living they should be able to say "If it can be reconnected it will be X amount or if we have to replace the mainboard, it will be X anmount." Once they have your camera, who knows what other "issues" will crop up.

Thanks

---------- Post added 05-13-20 at 04:12 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by MossyRocks Quote
Worse comes to worse an IR remote may be a cheaper solution.
I didn't realize that it would work with an IR remote. The thing is, I use an intervolmeter not just a shutter release. Any suggestions for an IR that can do that as well? I'm guessing it has to maintain constant line of sight to use IR. If so, not sure how well that will work with the camera moving on the tripod mount. Something to research I guess.

Thanks
05-13-2020, 04:38 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by deathtical Quote
I didn't realize that it would work with an IR remote. The thing is, I use an intervolmeter not just a shutter release. Any suggestions for an IR that can do that as well?
If your phone has an IR blaster, you might be able to use DSLR Remote by bitshift. It has an intervalometer feature. The downsides are that it is a battery drain on both camera and phone and is line of sight. I have found it usefull on with my K-3.

As for the no quote without the camera in hand, that is a no-brainer given that the extent of the damage cannot be assessed remotely.


Steve
05-13-2020, 05:28 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
If your phone has an IR blaster, you might be able to use DSLR Remote by bitshift. It has an intervalometer feature. The downsides are that it is a battery drain on both camera and phone and is line of sight. I have found it usefull on with my K-3.

As for the no quote without the camera in hand, that is a no-brainer given that the extent of the damage cannot be assessed remotely.


Steve
Yeah, for astrophotography, I don't think IR is the best option. Especially when it gets cold as @^%&.

They should be able to give me a ballpark. It's not like it's some unusual request and I would think a relatively common repair. Years ago, when I repaired computers, when we're able to give ballpark quotes with the disclaimer "could be more". The whole idea that they can't even provide a reasonable guesstimate seems like "old car salesmen" tactics. Either way, I appreciate the the feedback. Now I have to decide if I just want to "craigslist" it as is and just buy a new camera. Most places want a minimum eval fee that is a quarter to a third of the cost of the camera, and that's not including the cost of parts and additional labor. Got some considering to do.

Thanks
05-13-2020, 08:42 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by deathtical Quote
I didn't realize that it would work with an IR remote. The thing is, I use an intervolmeter not just a shutter release. Any suggestions for an IR that can do that as well? I'm guessing it has to maintain constant line of sight to use IR. If so, not sure how well that will work with the camera moving on the tripod mount. Something to research I guess.
I don't know if there is an IR intervolmeter. I also don't know if there is a special protocol for it or if it is just an I got a big blast of IR so open and hold until I stop getting a big blast of IR. If it is just the big blast of IR find out what frequency and one could probably create an IR intervolmeter with ease from an arduino and any large 12v battery would power it and your gear all night. I assume you were using an equatorial and not astrotracer so using the astrotracer timer and just pushing the button is out as you don't want to hold it open.
05-13-2020, 10:14 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by MossyRocks Quote
if it is just an I got a big blast of IR so open and hold until I stop getting a big blast of IR
You set the camera to B mode with B configured as T (a pulse to open and a second pulse to close). At least that is how the DSLR Remote App works.


Steve
05-14-2020, 07:48 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
You set the camera to B mode with B configured as T (a pulse to open and a second pulse to close). At least that is how the DSLR Remote App works.


Steve
Can you tell I don't have an IR remote and don't know how they work. Given that it sound's like it might be pretty easy to create an IR intervolmeter using an arduino.
05-14-2020, 08:24 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by MossyRocks Quote
I don't know if there is an IR intervolmeter. I also don't know if there is a special protocol for it or if it is just an I got a big blast of IR so open and hold until I stop getting a big blast of IR. If it is just the big blast of IR find out what frequency and one could probably create an IR intervolmeter with ease from an arduino and any large 12v battery would power it and your gear all night. I assume you were using an equatorial and not astrotracer so using the astrotracer timer and just pushing the button is out as you don't want to hold it open.

Arduino? Is that like a RaspberryPi? As for my mount, I use both an equatorial and an astrotracker (sky tracker). Just depends how much I want to drag out that night and what my targets are. Some nights I have both. That said, I want to touch the camera as little as possible. I also don't want to deal with adding a computer to the mix. That said, ZWO makes a purpose built computer that works with an app on an iPad that is based on a RPi4 (I think) called the ASIAIR PRO. Iwould connect to the camera via USB and it can control intervals and exposures, but a little out of my budget at the moment ($550 for computer, guide camera, and guide scope :O). Maybe once I've won the lotto.

Thanks
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