Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
08-12-2020, 06:11 AM   #1
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 82
Quick and dirty advice wanted.

I was expecting my K3 II today, but just got a shipping update that it'll be delayed until tomorrow. Tomorrow I'll be gone overnight for work, returning Friday. Saturday I may be going to the drag strip to watch a few jet car races, but likely only going to have two night passes. Needless to say, this doesn't give much time to get to know the camera or experiment during the event, but I have a DSLR already that I learned the basics on.

So my question is, are there any quirks or tips I should know about for this event specific to the K3 II? The attached photo is from a prior race, to give you an idea of the amount of lighting contrast I'm dealing with. I'm kinda doubting I'll make it track side this time, and the flash will be useless from the stands. These are the lenses I'll have at my disposal.

100mm Macro
50mm Plastic Fantastic
35mm Limited Macro
15mm Limited (Green Ring)
10-17mm Fisheye*
55-300mm (not sure which version)
18-135mm
Will also have the AF201FG flash if I can get back track side.

I know this camera has HDR abilities, but would that even be effective when tracking a car going 150+mph?

Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
VS995  Photo 
08-12-2020, 07:31 AM   #2
Forum Member




Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 69
Cool Shot. What camera are you currently using? I have the K-3 and find it pretty intuitive coning from the K-500.


Jim
08-12-2020, 07:47 AM   #3
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 82
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by jimfellows Quote
Cool Shot. What camera are you currently using? I have the K-3 and find it pretty intuitive coning from the K-500.


Jim
An Olympus E-500, so quite outdated to say the least. Lol. I actually don't use it much anymore because my phone takes better photos in most situations.

Last edited by Mooncatt; 08-12-2020 at 08:18 AM.
08-12-2020, 09:52 AM   #4
Pentaxian At Large
Loyal Site Supporter
robgski's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 4,358
Nice shot , will you be in the same approximate distance this time?
You will want a zoom, if you will be close like in the picture above, the 18-135mm, but if up in the stands, then the 55-300. If you can get in the pit or line up area, the DA 10-17 would be fun to use.

With the K-3 , you could easily use ISO 1600, high enough for a good shutter speed to minimize the blur, especially from a long lens at max zoom. You can pan for movement and get a nice effect.

If the car is standing still HDR will work nicely, but not for fast moving objects.

Have fun, the last few night passes here have been rained out.

08-12-2020, 10:15 AM - 2 Likes   #5
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 82
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by robgski Quote
Nice shot , will you be in the same approximate distance this time?
I'm not planning on it, much as I'd like to be. Last time I was by myself, so it wasn't hard to get access. This time I'm planning to have the family with me and need to help mind the kids in the stands. I'm pretty sure I'll be limited to the 55-300mm because of that, so was more concerned with settings issues of the body. If they don't come, then I will try for track side access again.

Good to know about the ISO performance. On my Oly, anything over 400 gets questionable pretty quick. The shot I posted above was at ISO 400, and you can tell I was fighting noise pretty hard on the full size image.

Speaking of noise, enjoy a video from the same vantage point, shot on an LG V20 phone.

08-12-2020, 11:34 AM   #6
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
MossyRocks's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Minnesota
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 1,599
I have a K-3 and K-3ii and will regularly run both of them at ISO 3200 to ISO 6400 when doing night shots but you will likely have more light with what your are doing. Running either at ISO 800 I don't give it a second thought so with you coming from a max of about ISO 400 expect to get substantially improved results. As far as using the HDR mode on a moving subject, expect a hot mess and don't bother. I've used HRD mode a few times trying to figure out how to get a nice shot out of it and have never really liked any of the results and none of the times did I use it on a moving subject.

Your lens list looks to be mostly newer glass so all the weirdness with using legacy lenses is something you won't have to deal with. However you may want to play with getting the AF fine adjustment correct for your lenses at your expected shooting distance. It isn't too hard and with things like a drag strip you should be able to tell if you are front or back focusing pretty easily so getting it close enough shouldn't take too long even in the stands. The AF fine adjustment is on the custom menu tap (the wrench) and if I remember correctly is on the last page of it. Set it the apply to one lens and not the apply to all as this will save the setting you set for each lens.
08-12-2020, 02:56 PM   #7
Senior Member




Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 154
One thing to consider is setting your camera in manual exposure and manual focus. The reason I say this is because if the camera is in fully manual mode, there will be no shutter delay. You can start with the camera in auto and take some test shots at different ISO settings and f-stops, then once you get nicely exposed and in focus shots, put everything in manual. Shooting at night if the focus is in manual, I am betting the focus lock would be a little slow.

Have fun!
08-12-2020, 03:07 PM   #8
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
UncleVanya's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2014
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 16,980
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/donations/?ebooks=1&loginrequired=1

Get an e book on the k-3 series it's worth it.

Use Tv mode with the exposure compensation to set your shutter speed and let aperture float or use manual mode. I also shot up to 3200 iso without a lot of worry but nose tolerances vary. Manual focus has benefits as well if the distances are relative stable. If you are allowed a monopod that can make shooting a lot easier in the stands including panning during the exposure.

What you won't find on the k-3 is any type of scene mode. The lower end models have that but not the flagship models.

Do you shoot in raw or jpg or both? Raw gives better shadow performance with the right tools but jpg isn't bad.

08-12-2020, 03:52 PM   #9
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 82
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
If you are allowed a monopod that can make shooting a lot easier in the stands including panning during the exposure.


Do you shoot in raw or jpg or both? Raw gives better shadow performance with the right tools but jpg isn't bad.
I can pull a leg from my tripod for mono use, but I'm generally not a fan of them. Not even sure if that's allowed at the track.

I do tend to shoot RAW+ and not opposed to editing, but my editing tools are limited hardware-wise.
08-12-2020, 04:29 PM   #10
Pentaxian At Large
Loyal Site Supporter
robgski's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 4,358
I encourage a monopod when posible, but at high ISO you can get a fast enough shutter speed to minimize your own body sway. Since your subjects will be moving, and you will be panning, more support is helpful, but not critical.

Watching your footage reminded me you probably want to use Medium or High burst shooting.
I have used High for capturing rocketry, and Medium at the drag strip, it is up to you.

There is a Car Loving Pentaxians group in my signature, feel free to post the results there.
08-12-2020, 05:35 PM - 1 Like   #11
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
AlwaysAl's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 298
Sounds like a lot of good advice so far. Here's my two-cent's worth. I would shoot as if it were day-time; those blasts are day-bright as you've illustrated above. Next, decide what you really want to record; for me a pass by is pretty uneventful, the warm ups and launch have their own magic and can be very interesting especially if you can catch some of the crew in the periphery. The after-burner /chute sequence at the end of the run has its own merit especially if the two cars are well matched and you can get this as a "pairs" shot. My experince has these cars only doing about 200 mph so there a few moments to change settings (open the aperture a liitle more) from the start to thus next shoit. Of your lens selection, I'd go with the 50-300 and hope to get as close as possible to the start line without singing the eye brows). Additionally, shoot in burst mode and set your focus to an assumed spot and set the camera to "shoot in focus:. Also, shoot in RAW, if possible. Lots of things can be cured in post production if the data is there. It's usually easy to see how the pre-lauch performance shapes up, take a few shots and check your settings durng the rehersal. When it comes time for the launch, I usually keep my one eye on the "tree" and then start shooting just slightly beffore launch, trying to catch the most dramatic presentation (knowing that each run will be slightly different). As a couple of other shooting suggestions; if you track side position is "crap" sometimes you can get a position easlly at the end of the track looking at the start line. Sometimes, the flames and show from this angle are far better than might get from a perceived competition angle. Also, when I've been to "Nnights of Fire" or other such naned jet car events, there is usually a fireworks show. If this is part of the show, might want to tuck one of your wide=angles into your pocket. Happy shooting! Hope this is of some use to you and doesn't add confusion.
08-12-2020, 09:37 PM   #12
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
david94903's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Rafael, CA
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 750
First congratulation on your purchase of your new K-3II.


For moving objects, I'd be inclined to put the camera in TaV mode, set your shutter speed based on whether you want to freeze the motion or do panning with motion blur, set your aperture based on the sweet spot for the lens (given your list above, f/5.6 - f/8 ought to work fine), and then let your ISO ride between 100 and 3200 to minimize noise. My experience with the K-3, going much beyond 3200 at night created more noise than I was comfortable with, though going to 6400 is perfectly acceptable for many. I have not used the K-3II, so you may get less noise that the K-3 at the higher ISO. You'll have to experiment a bit to see what you like.

Lastly, definitely shoot in RAW or RAW+. You'll want all the information you can get shooting into the shadows.
08-13-2020, 09:41 AM - 1 Like   #13
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 82
Original Poster
All the info is appreciated. Normally I'd go through the effort and learn it on my own, but timing wasn't in my favor. Definitely going to keep these suggestions in mind and I'll see about giving the monopod idea a try. I think the catch-in-focus feature could be of use too.

The rest of the family decided not to go, so I will be going track side again, plus it's open pits. Now to just cross my fingers the rain holds off.
08-13-2020, 11:47 AM   #14
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter




Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 289
HDR won't work if the subject moves. It takes 2 images.
08-16-2020, 08:11 PM   #15
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 82
Original Poster
Thanks again for the tips, and the event went quite well. Still have to work on fine tuning everything, but I'll be posting them in the car social group when they are ready. Here's a little teaser, though.

18mm
F4
1/125
ISO 200
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-3 II  Photo 
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
camera, car, dslr, flash, ii, k-3, k3, macro, pentax k-3, time, tomorrow, track
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Quick and Dirty K-1 IS Test K David Pentax K-1 6 11-04-2018 07:37 AM
Quick and dirty macro ring alliumnsk Pentax Q 10 03-06-2016 12:04 PM
Macro Dirty dirty not the fly old4570 Post Your Photos! 2 05-06-2014 07:35 AM
Dirty Sensor Or Dirty Lens? Orli Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 8 10-26-2009 03:35 AM
A quick and dirty 50-58mm lens test Voe Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 8 04-20-2008 04:44 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:12 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top