[alamo5000]

I am going to lead off with an initial video from youtube. I was referred there by another forum member.

Here is an excellent instructional video on how to make the most of your lighting and location. It's a great video to learn from.

You Tube

You Tube

[tranq78]

Thanks for this!

[7samurai]

thank you for sharing. i now got to figure it out...

[McChucklenuts]

I've had a few people ask my have I or why I won't sell anything I take, I think this video pretty much explains why I won't, I don't have the knowledge or experience to do what this fella was on about.

Learnt a fair few things, just gotta try and put them to use.
Generally don't like taking pictures of people (don't like facial expressions which are put on or just bland), but it's still nice to have the knowledge tucked up ya sleeve.

[mee]

Does anyone here know and is willing to share his basic technique for exposing? In the video it mentions he explained in depth that part outdoors but it wasn't captured on video... and sadly I think that part would be the most important in getting similar shots like he shows.

[alamo5000]

Does anyone here know and is willing to share his basic technique for exposing? In the video it mentions he explained in depth that part outdoors but it wasn't captured on video... and sadly I think that part would be the most important in getting similar shots like he shows.

Expose for the highlights, not the shadows? Isn't that what the guy says? Not sure what you are after. Then again, I am not an expert either

But here is what I do... it may not be right... but I do it. I have my camera set on the center metering mode. I then put that spot over the brightest portion of the frame and set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed combo to the desired levels. I then re-frame and shoot. Of course this is all done in manual mode.

[LeRolls]

Even though I really like my Manfrotto LEDs I think an Ice Light is in my future.

[mee]

Expose for the highlights, not the shadows? Isn't that what the guy says? Not sure what you are after. Then again, I am not an expert either

But here is what I do... it may not be right... but I do it. I have my camera set on the center metering mode. I then put that spot over the brightest portion of the frame and set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed combo to the desired levels. I then re-frame and shoot. Of course this is all done in manual mode.

Sure but what does 'expose for the highlights' mean is what I was after.


Thanks for sharing your technique. I emailed Jerry and one of his staff directed me to another youtube BH video where he covers the exposure part https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kmi9TPQ57Mo#t=7291

2:01:30 into the video if that link doesn't automatically jump there

[PiDicus Rex]

Ice Light? US $500,..... yeee-ouch.

Bought 3 LED globes from my local hardware stores lighting dept, with a Chinese Lantern, three lamp sockets, a wall plug, and some bailing wire and made up a light that does the same diffuse soft light for about AU $80 - and the 240volt LED house globes are about $20 each here.


"Exposing for Highlights",... is the same technique you need to use to avoid the 'Black Sun' issue with the BMD cameras.
You set the maximum exposure so that no highlight is overexposed.

On the K-01 for example, I'd turn on the Bright/Dark Area display, frame the shot, then adjust the Iris and/or Shutter Speed until no area is displaying the red trace for overexposed areas.
On a pure video camera, I'd turn on the Zebra, set it to 100%, then crank the Iris closed till the Zebra pattern just disappears.

The risk is that you will under-expose dark areas.

If you have a dimmer equipped light, you can expose for the highlights, then fill in the dark areas with the light, carefully raising it's level to make sure nothing in the frame is over or under exposed, so you stay within the Dynamic Range of the camera.
In video, especially with limited data-rate CoDecs like h.264, staying within the Dynamic Range is essential to prevent the CoDec braking down (becoming blotchy) in post-production colour correction.