[watchingskyfallatm]

You mentioned that you also want this camera for Videography. If that's going to be your priority, I would highly, highly recommend a Panasonic GH4, for myriad reasons I can go through if you're interested. I think most people on this forum would agree that Pentax aren't yet strong enough in the video department.

[Des]

I have no problems with ISO 1600. I do use DxO Optics Pro 8 to reduce any noise. There isn't much learning curve there. Use the default and 10 seconds later, your picture looks much better.

+1. And if you can wait longer than 10 seconds, use DxO Optics Pro's "PRIME" noise reduction. It takes a while to process, but it does wonders. The examples on their web site accord with my experience.

[redcat]

use DxO Optics Pro's "PRIME" noise reduction

hah, learn new thing everyday, thanks a lot, I'll try this tonight, I've got many high-ISO photo !

[6BQ5]

The K-30 is a strong camera that can be pushed technically in ways most wouldn't imagine. I agree that 1600 ISO sounds high but you can go to 3200 and 6400. With good post processing and noise reduction algorithms you can get decently clean images. Video is the camera's weak spot and I agree that a Panasonic u4/3 system will suit you better. I don't know if you need to get the latest and greatest model or if you could get by with a 1-2 year old body. New always sounds good though.

I would recommend pushing your K-30 to its limits and finding out how/when it misses focus. Often? Sometimes? In dark light? Moving subjects?

Play with a manual flash until you understand it. They're cheap on eBay. Set your camera to manual mode. Never rely on automatic systems. Why not? What happens when they fail or misjudge?

Explore different lenses. I agree with others that fast primes can work wonders on a K-30. Be it the DA 35mm f/2.4 or the FA 50mm 50mm f/1.4 or the FA Ltd 43mm f/1.9.

Play with some software. There's plenty to choose from. Don't rely solely on in-camera processing. Come up with your own processing.

Once you've burned out your shutter on the K-30 and emptied your wallet on new glass and a flash then I'd say go for a K-3. Remember, all the lenses and accessories will port right over to the K-3 when the time is right.

[redcat]

Play with some software

totally true, pp skill increases photograph skill and vice versa !

[lawjie]

Thank you all for your replies!

It will be messy if I try to quote each of your posts, but most of you guys post makes me rethink a lot.

I have followed a pro wedding photographer to shoot a wedding ceremony in city hall. The reason why I complain about manual flash is because at that time, he used his 5D mark iii with several off camera auto flashes under AV mode, while I was too painful having only my 100mm F2.8 usable, and that YongNuo manual flash attached on my camera just couldn't make the natural-look light. (Later on I went back to the city hall alone to test out using in-camera flash to trigger the off camera manual flash, but never have an actual chance again to do a shooting in city hall again).

I shoot manual mode since day one of getting this camera, and am able to get the right exposure(I usually use center-weight metering mode with select focus point).

I think what I need to focus on is to improve my composition, direct pose skill and creativity.

Lens is indeed more important than camera itself, I guess I lost myself for a moment because of that super low price K-3.

I have decided to buy the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 Lens or Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 IF EX DG HSM Autofocus Lens at black Friday. Why didn't Pentax make such 24-70mm zoom lens?!
(This reminds me of trying out my friend's canon 24-70 F2.8 on 5D mark iii, too amazing!)

[redcat]

Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 Lens

this is a good one, very versatile and IQ is great, as for the flash, I use automatic flash all the time (when I need flash) and have great reason. Manual exposure and TTL flash are nice combo, you can check my "not safe for work" photos, they are all capture with this method

[lawjie]

this is a good one, very versatile and IQ is great, as for the flash, I use automatic flash all the time (when I need flash) and have great reason. Manual exposure and TTL flash are nice combo, you can check my "not safe for work" photos, they are all capture with this method

o.o what TTL flash are you using?

[RGlasel]

The K-30 is a strong camera that can be pushed technically in ways most wouldn't imagine. I agree that 1600 ISO sounds high but you can go to 3200 and 6400. With good post processing and noise reduction algorithms you can get decently clean images. Video is the camera's weak spot and I agree that a Panasonic u4/3 system will suit you better. I don't know if you need to get the latest and greatest model or if you could get by with a 1-2 year old body. New always sounds good though.

I would recommend pushing your K-30 to its limits and finding out how/when it misses focus. Often? Sometimes? In dark light? Moving subjects?

Play with a manual flash until you understand it. They're cheap on eBay. Set your camera to manual mode. Never rely on automatic systems. Why not? What happens when they fail or misjudge?

Explore different lenses. I agree with others that fast primes can work wonders on a K-30. Be it the DA 35mm f/2.4 or the FA 50mm 50mm f/1.4 or the FA Ltd 43mm f/1.9.

Play with some software. There's plenty to choose from. Don't rely solely on in-camera processing. Come up with your own processing.

Once you've burned out your shutter on the K-30 and emptied your wallet on new glass and a flash then I'd say go for a K-3. Remember, all the lenses and accessories will port right over to the K-3 when the time is right.

What Boris said.

The K-30 isn't the weak point of your system. It's your lighting equipment. You will often be in situations where you can't bounce a flash and get good results, but you need to get your flash off your camera or put it in a softbox or both, to get softer, non-directional light. Unless you have a prearranged location where you know how the ambient light will work, you are taking a chance with poor colouring and underexposed faces without using flash at all. In my experience, P-TTL flash is much better in a normal room than in public facilities with lots of reflective surfaces in all the wrong places. You could buy a Metz flash for less money than the Pentax flashes, with full P-TTL capability, but you will have to learn how to manually set flash, regardless. Maybe get some accessories for your Yonghuo flash instead. As for adding lenses, the DA 50 f1.8 and DA 35 f2.4 have the advantages of being inexpensive and fast in useful focal lengths for individual or group portraits. Until you get your subjects nicely posed and framed, while being well lighted, it won't make any difference how sharp your lenses are or how much dynamic range or bit depth your camera has. Your current zooms will cover any focal length you might need, although the DA 18-135 might eliminate the need to switch lenses during the ceremony or reception. You will blow your budget out of the water if you buy a fast enough zoom to avoid using a flash. Finally, the most important part doesn't cost anything but time, practice and get experience.

[drypenn]

I've been sitting on the fence watching a slew of K5 II, K5II s and now K3, pass my lowly K30 by. I purchased my K30 a few weeks after its release, and got hit by the novelty premium. Since then, I decided, I'll be more patient next time.

While waiting, I've collected the 3 Fa limiteds, the 15, a K28/3.5, the 100mm Macro, and a bunch of Q lenses for my Q and Q7 among others.

At the end of the day, it may be better to stack up on the glasses (as prices continue to climb) and wait for an opportune time to grab an "obsolete" camera.

By the way, I can comfortably push my K30 to ISO1600, without feeling any need to de-noise the images.

[redcat]

o.o what TTL flash are you using?

there were 3-4 Metz flashes for each shots

[clackers]

that YongNuo manual flash attached on my camera just couldn't make the natural-look light.

Three cheap Yongnuo manual wireless flashes off camera and you'll have as sophisticated setup as he did. With the Yongnuo controller on your hotshoe you won't even have to reach up to the top of your stands to adjust their power outputs.

It is much more versatile, too, able to work across your bodies of most brands (a Sony will need an adapter).

The Nikon Commander system (like Pentax wireless) requires line of sight. A cheap radio option means you can put flashes behind a bush, couch, through doorway of adjoining corridor, etc.

There are Canons with inbuilt radio but one is costly, let alone three or four.

[ChristianRock]

Another thought, instead of upgrading your camera, look at the Sigma 18-35 f1.8. Do a flickr search on "wedding sigma 18-35" and you'll find lots of examples of people using this lens with great results. Shooting at f1.8 or f2, you might not even need ISO 1600 indoors. Assuming you get a good non-decentered copy, and it focuses accurately... but with the USB dock, you might be able to work on that.
That and a DA*55 for head and shoulder portraits might be all you'll need (well, on a second body, of course).