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12-05-2014, 07:36 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Doundounba Quote
high magnification handheld macro set-up
Could you please share with us the set up ?

12-05-2014, 07:49 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by fwwidall Quote
Spot the tiny humanoid figure at the base of the central hexagon
Amazing observation !
+1
12-05-2014, 08:23 AM - 2 Likes   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by redcat Quote
Could you please share with us the set up ?
Sure. I viewed snowflake shooting as an occasion to experiment with technique, so I used many different set-ups. (If you look at my Snowflakes Macro album, each shot includes a description of material used.)

Basically, on an APS-C camera, I think you need something that will get you at least 2.5:1 macro magnification to start getting interesting shots. Flakes do vary quite significantly in size and I like to be able to try both somewhat "wider" shots as well as "close-ups" of individual flakes. This means I like to use a set-up that makes it easy to change the macro magnification I'm getting. In order to achieve this, the technique I used most often last winter was coupled reversed lens with a zoom as the reversed lens. My primary is either a Pentax-M 135mm F/3.5 or a Pentax-M 150mm F/3.5 and the secondary I liked most is an old Sigma 24-70mm zoom. Both lenses are at left at infinity focus and focus is achieved by moving the whole camera back and forth. Magnification is given by the ratio of focal lengths used, and so is controlled by changing the focal length on the reversed zoom (e.g. 135mm on the primary and 50mm on the zoom gives you 2.7:1). Both lenses are stopped down, but it's more important to stop down the reversed lens as much as possible. I've now moved to external flash, but all last winter my light was provided by the onboard flash, using a "Pringles can" flash diffuser. K-01 plus 135mm plus 24-70mm zoom plus Pringles diffuser makes for a comparatively light and compact set-up.

I usually shoot snow that is accumulating on a hard surface, which allows me to use my left hand to steady the lens (my hand "connects" the camera to the hard surface). This is very important because at 3:1 (or more) it is extremely difficult to be steady enough to even frame, focus, and shoot. I find that interesting formations can often be discovered on narrow surfaces (like the railings on stairs for instance) where you get an "edge" and aren't just shooting at a wide flat surface. Usually, along that edge, it's possible to find flakes that "stick out", so that the photo has a clear subject...

Does that make sense? I hope it does...



Last edited by Doundounba; 12-05-2014 at 10:51 AM.
12-05-2014, 01:59 PM   #19
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All your post makes sense, but even if it didn't the photo at the end is worth the read.

12-05-2014, 03:49 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by emalvick Quote
All your post makes sense, but even if it didn't the photo at the end is worth the read.
Thank you!
01-06-2015, 11:55 PM   #21
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Cool photos, all.
I didn't really think about actually trying this, but now am wondering...
So I have a K-1000 & 4 zoom lenses... what do I need? Is it as simple as looking for a "reverse adapter" with a K-mount and the right filter size? Is it just those skinny little rings you can find on eBay for like $4?
I have 19-35, 35-105, 80-200, and 100-300 zooms. Which lens would be best to use?
I know nothing about this. Obviously
What would you guys advise for me to try some snowflake photos?
01-27-2015, 06:41 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by fwwidall Quote
Thanks. It's actual not that difficult to do.

Basic idea is collect snowflake on sheet of glass, fire flash up through the crystal and photograph it

I built a 'snowcatcher' to hold things steady. I tend to tweak it each year to try out various ideas, but the basic method doesn't change.

I have lots of other images in my Snowflakes album https://www.flickr.com/photos/fwwidall/sets/72157603415282264/

Hi Fred,

Your "snowcatcher" is a great and doable setup. I have everything to assemble one myself, except for the bellows. I do have a question though. If the lens is reverse mounted, do you focus on the flake by moving the bellows adjustment knob ? I also enjoyed your images on Flickr.
Thanks for your advice.

01-28-2015, 05:54 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by zman Quote
Hi Fred,

Your "snowcatcher" is a great and doable setup. I have everything to assemble one myself, except for the bellows. I do have a question though. If the lens is reverse mounted, do you focus on the flake by moving the bellows adjustment knob ? I also enjoyed your images on Flickr.
Thanks for your advice.
That is correct.

Usually the snowflakes are not perfectly flat, but have a slight curl to them, I take several shots of each adjusting the focus minutely each time in the hope of getting a perfect one.

Check out Alexey Kljatov's blog for an alternative 'snowcatcher' using a point and shoot camera, and great tips for post-processing. Alexey's snow crystal images are as good as I've seen anywhere
02-01-2015, 04:21 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alliecat Quote
Beautiful macro snowflake images
These images are really quite something special.
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