Need some insight into architectural photography and equipment

RAART · 03-17-2016, 02:51 PM

Hello there,

I am looking to get geared head for my tripod as, I guess soon I will start new adventure of architectural photography as my part-time job. A friend who will be soon a real estate broker needed someone to get a pictures whenever a house will be sold. As I have few more realtor friends they are eager to work with me as long as I am ready to dive into.

The question now is… What gear do I need for this specific business?

As I am personally kind of person that I should do it right from beginning or not do it at all. One of my friends is Architect and that person is very specific with straight lines and hates distorted wide angle pictures. Once he asked me for a favor and to shot one of the houses he designed and gave me very specific instructions and as we are friends he was even more demanding than usual. The short story is that I got insight what those people want from a photographer.

As result of this gained knowledge I started to look into geared heads that will give me a very precise adjustment during the shooting, but soon I discovered the prices for those are in the high range. I am currently looking into Manfrotto 400 Geared Head with 3 RC plates as I can get one of those used. It is still on expensive side but the seller is willing to work some deal out. The other thing is do I really need this one or I can get away with my current head (Manfrotto 808 RC4) and get some kind of macro adjustment rail which should give some kind of adjustments needed but not on all axes.

While I am aware that I will need at some point a new FF camera and I am glad that K-1 is coming out soon, the tricky part is where to put money first as I am currently on very tight budget.

I do have K-3 now and plan to get Sigma rectilinear zoom and later a PC (perspective adjustment; tilt-shift) lens. The other stuff, like flashes, stands and modifiers I do have, just need a few shoot-through umbrellas.

I know that to keep visual perspective I cannot go too wide and but I will need high resolution lens or two with excellent sharpness into corners. As I will use mostly tripod and higher f-stop I am looking to get some kind of wireless shutter trigger that can trigger reliably the K-3 and all future cameras I will have.

This is the story and I like to get some advice/suggestion on this forum from the good folks here.

Here are in short some topics that I like to get some insight:
- Should I get geared head and which one you will recommend?
- What lens you will use for architectural photography?
- What shutter triggers to get?
- Is there some products like “CamRanger” that it is supporting Pentax?

My plan is to stick with Pentax in regards of their camera line and maybe at some point if this works well to dive into medium format as well…

Please do not hesitate to post anything that is close to theme of architectural or interior design photography and especially if you are already in this business what I should do or consider to do.

Thanks!

Last edited by RAART; 03-17-2016 at 09:13 PM.

**MJSfoto1956** · 03-17-2016, 03:28 PM

for my architectural photography I tend to use the Nikon D800 + Nikkor 14-24mm for the majority of my photos (N.B. architectural details generally need longer lenses). As such the camera setup you may want to consider initially would be the Pentax K-1 + 15-30mm and build upon that from there.

Michael

Robot camera · 03-17-2016, 04:21 PM

I used to photograph houses for Airbnb. I used my K20D and the Pentax 12-24mm zoom. I hand held all my shots, photographing at 400 ISO and relying on the built in SR. Hand holding shots meant I worked more quickly and got a little further back. I adjusted my exposure so that the brightest part of the image was within the range of the sensor, then used fill in from a camera mounted flash on a partial power setting. The flash was almost always bounced off the ceiling above me, but if that wasn't possible I mounted a white 8" x 10" bounce card on the flash and held the flash off and above the camera. Another, remotely activated flash would have sometimes been useful when there was another room visible through an arch or the room was 'L' shaped or somesuch. This would be on a stand with a simple diffuser. I use the simplest Pocket Wizards.

Using this site:Online Depth of Field Calculator I made up a table of distance and apertures. As usual, best to close down another stop more than they say to ensure all is in focus; it isn't so easy to set an exact focus point with the short scales on AF lenses, and such calculators or tables are usually made for less rigorous use.

I'm very good at getting the camera upright and parallel,but you will have the built in level to help you. I think that the wideangle distortion your friend hates isn't anywhere near so noticeable if you shoot from a corner. In the editing software of your choice you can ensure verticals are vertical and parallel etc, but when taking exterior shots of buildings, if the verticals are parallel, the building looks top heavy. Let the verticals converge towards the top just a little bit. Don't do this for interior shots. Indoors, keep the verticals parallel.

I processed the results in the DxO Optics Pro 5 Raw converter. If you don't know, this corrects for field curvature (and other things) for the lenses and camera combo, if they've been tested by the DxO mob. this makes a striking difference to the appearance of a shot, even if it looks okay before processing.

calsan · 03-17-2016, 05:32 PM

Have a look at quality architecture magazines for some insights. Architectural Record, Japan Architect; that sort of thing. It's not just nice photos, there is a story to tell. Notice that they will have a 'context' photo and then some that 'walk you through' the main spaces, then they pick out significant details. You definitely want to find out from the architect what their 'concept' was when they were designing.

johnyates · 03-17-2016, 09:26 PM

You might want to hang out with these folks:
https://www.flickr.com/groups/photographyforrealestate/

SpecialK · 03-17-2016, 09:35 PM

I have a 17mm TS lens that I do not use enough in either T or S mode - but it is nice to know it is there :-)

This book seems out of print but is very enjoyable, even if the means and methods are a bit beyond my aspirations.

http://www.amazon.com/Photographing-Buildings-Inside-Norman-McGrath/dp/082304016X

RAART · 03-17-2016, 09:38 PM

@MJSfoto1956
Thanks Michael. That's the plan A and plan B is 645Z and a similar lens, but I might commit that Plan B is expensive to start with and I do not have funds for it now...

@Robot camera
I have already few flashes but will switch to Yongnuo or Godox or Lumopro flashes and use them with shoot-through umbrellas as diffuser. Right now I do have some cheap flash radio triggers but plan to switch to some that will allow me remote power control. I use currently Adobe CC (LR+PS+Bridge) and I do not think that I will switch to something else soon.
In regards to keep camera very straight I am looking into geared head for my tripod. This will allow me very precise adjustment to fine tune the composition and I will get few macro rails to allow me to move the camera horizontally if I needed and maybe to combine, let's call it panorama for now, image. For stitching those images I already have Kolor Autopano software.
Do you think that PC lens will be required for indoor shots?

@calsan
Thanks for this!

---------- Post added 03-18-16 at 12:43 AM ----------

Originally posted by SpecialK

I have a 17mm TS lens that I do not use enough in either T or S mode - but it is nice to know it is there :-)

This book seems out of print but is very enjoyable, even if the means and methods are a bit beyond my aspirations.

http://www.amazon.com/Photographing-Buildings-Inside-Norman-McGrath/dp/082304016X

Thanks! I will look into but funny thing is that your link instead of amazon.com redirected me to Canadian page and they have that in stock for 5.41CAD + shipping 6.49CAD

BTW which T/S 17mm you have? Canon?

Last edited by RAART; 03-17-2016 at 09:45 PM.

**jbinpg** · 03-17-2016, 10:21 PM

I have a Manfrotto 405 geared head and it was the best money I ever spent. I am thinking of getting another one.

RAART · 03-17-2016, 10:55 PM

Originally posted by jbinpg

I have a Manfrotto 405 geared head and it was the best money I ever spent. I am thinking of getting another one.

I am looking into Manfrotto 400 geared head as this is only I can find used in my area... The seller might settle for around 650CAD for it. Still do not know if I should go for it or wait to find 405 for lower price. Do you think that price for aorund 650$ is ok for 400 head?

RAART · 03-18-2016, 03:25 AM

Originally posted by johnyates

You might want to hang out with these folks:
https://www.flickr.com/groups/photographyforrealestate/

Thanks! joined the group...

**cpk** · 03-18-2016, 07:35 AM

The Manfrotto 410 head will do the job and is a lot less expensive than the 400 or 405.

You Tube

.

house · 03-18-2016, 10:16 AM

First I'd suggest that architects and real estate brokers tend to have very different ideas of what makes a good photo. The most "commercial architects"* may share some ground with brokers. Few good architects would be happy about using flash for instance. (Always exceptions though)

A good pan head should be fine for the tripod that's what most I know use.

*common derogatory term

03-17-2016, 02:51 PM	#1
RAART Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Oakville, ON Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,095	Need some insight into architectural photography and equipment Hello there, I am looking to get geared head for my tripod as, I guess soon I will start new adventure of architectural photography as my part-time job. A friend who will be soon a real estate broker needed someone to get a pictures whenever a house will be sold. As I have few more realtor friends they are eager to work with me as long as I am ready to dive into. The question now is… What gear do I need for this specific business? As I am personally kind of person that I should do it right from beginning or not do it at all. One of my friends is Architect and that person is very specific with straight lines and hates distorted wide angle pictures. Once he asked me for a favor and to shot one of the houses he designed and gave me very specific instructions and as we are friends he was even more demanding than usual. The short story is that I got insight what those people want from a photographer. As result of this gained knowledge I started to look into geared heads that will give me a very precise adjustment during the shooting, but soon I discovered the prices for those are in the high range. I am currently looking into Manfrotto 400 Geared Head with 3 RC plates as I can get one of those used. It is still on expensive side but the seller is willing to work some deal out. The other thing is do I really need this one or I can get away with my current head (Manfrotto 808 RC4) and get some kind of macro adjustment rail which should give some kind of adjustments needed but not on all axes. While I am aware that I will need at some point a new FF camera and I am glad that K-1 is coming out soon, the tricky part is where to put money first as I am currently on very tight budget. I do have K-3 now and plan to get Sigma rectilinear zoom and later a PC (perspective adjustment; tilt-shift) lens. The other stuff, like flashes, stands and modifiers I do have, just need a few shoot-through umbrellas. I know that to keep visual perspective I cannot go too wide and but I will need high resolution lens or two with excellent sharpness into corners. As I will use mostly tripod and higher f-stop I am looking to get some kind of wireless shutter trigger that can trigger reliably the K-3 and all future cameras I will have. This is the story and I like to get some advice/suggestion on this forum from the good folks here. Here are in short some topics that I like to get some insight: - Should I get geared head and which one you will recommend? - What lens you will use for architectural photography? - What shutter triggers to get? - Is there some products like “CamRanger” that it is supporting Pentax? My plan is to stick with Pentax in regards of their camera line and maybe at some point if this works well to dive into medium format as well… Please do not hesitate to post anything that is close to theme of architectural or interior design photography and especially if you are already in this business what I should do or consider to do. Thanks! Last edited by RAART; 03-17-2016 at 09:13 PM.

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03-17-2016, 03:28 PM	#2
MJSfoto1956 Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Boston Posts: 1,305	for my architectural photography I tend to use the Nikon D800 + Nikkor 14-24mm for the majority of my photos (N.B. architectural details generally need longer lenses). As such the camera setup you may want to consider initially would be the Pentax K-1 + 15-30mm and build upon that from there. Michael

03-17-2016, 04:21 PM	#3
Robot camera Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Milton Keynes, Buckinghamshire Posts: 194	I used to photograph houses for Airbnb. I used my K20D and the Pentax 12-24mm zoom. I hand held all my shots, photographing at 400 ISO and relying on the built in SR. Hand holding shots meant I worked more quickly and got a little further back. I adjusted my exposure so that the brightest part of the image was within the range of the sensor, then used fill in from a camera mounted flash on a partial power setting. The flash was almost always bounced off the ceiling above me, but if that wasn't possible I mounted a white 8" x 10" bounce card on the flash and held the flash off and above the camera. Another, remotely activated flash would have sometimes been useful when there was another room visible through an arch or the room was 'L' shaped or somesuch. This would be on a stand with a simple diffuser. I use the simplest Pocket Wizards. Using this site:Online Depth of Field Calculator I made up a table of distance and apertures. As usual, best to close down another stop more than they say to ensure all is in focus; it isn't so easy to set an exact focus point with the short scales on AF lenses, and such calculators or tables are usually made for less rigorous use. I'm very good at getting the camera upright and parallel,but you will have the built in level to help you. I think that the wideangle distortion your friend hates isn't anywhere near so noticeable if you shoot from a corner. In the editing software of your choice you can ensure verticals are vertical and parallel etc, but when taking exterior shots of buildings, if the verticals are parallel, the building looks top heavy. Let the verticals converge towards the top just a little bit. Don't do this for interior shots. Indoors, keep the verticals parallel. I processed the results in the DxO Optics Pro 5 Raw converter. If you don't know, this corrects for field curvature (and other things) for the lenses and camera combo, if they've been tested by the DxO mob. this makes a striking difference to the appearance of a shot, even if it looks okay before processing.

03-17-2016, 05:32 PM	#4
calsan Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Perth, Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,549	Have a look at quality architecture magazines for some insights. Architectural Record, Japan Architect; that sort of thing. It's not just nice photos, there is a story to tell. Notice that they will have a 'context' photo and then some that 'walk you through' the main spaces, then they pick out significant details. You definitely want to find out from the architect what their 'concept' was when they were designing.

03-17-2016, 09:26 PM	#5
johnyates Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Saskatoon, SK Photos: Albums Posts: 1,345	You might want to hang out with these folks: https://www.flickr.com/groups/photographyforrealestate/

03-17-2016, 09:35 PM	#6
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,481	I have a 17mm TS lens that I do not use enough in either T or S mode - but it is nice to know it is there :-) This book seems out of print but is very enjoyable, even if the means and methods are a bit beyond my aspirations. http://www.amazon.com/Photographing-Buildings-Inside-Norman-McGrath/dp/082304016X

03-17-2016, 09:38 PM	#7
RAART Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Oakville, ON Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,095 Original Poster	@MJSfoto1956 Thanks Michael. That's the plan A and plan B is 645Z and a similar lens, but I might commit that Plan B is expensive to start with and I do not have funds for it now... @Robot camera I have already few flashes but will switch to Yongnuo or Godox or Lumopro flashes and use them with shoot-through umbrellas as diffuser. Right now I do have some cheap flash radio triggers but plan to switch to some that will allow me remote power control. I use currently Adobe CC (LR+PS+Bridge) and I do not think that I will switch to something else soon. In regards to keep camera very straight I am looking into geared head for my tripod. This will allow me very precise adjustment to fine tune the composition and I will get few macro rails to allow me to move the camera horizontally if I needed and maybe to combine, let's call it panorama for now, image. For stitching those images I already have Kolor Autopano software. Do you think that PC lens will be required for indoor shots? @calsan Thanks for this! ---------- Post added 03-18-16 at 12:43 AM ---------- Originally posted by SpecialK I have a 17mm TS lens that I do not use enough in either T or S mode - but it is nice to know it is there :-) This book seems out of print but is very enjoyable, even if the means and methods are a bit beyond my aspirations. http://www.amazon.com/Photographing-Buildings-Inside-Norman-McGrath/dp/082304016X Thanks! I will look into but funny thing is that your link instead of amazon.com redirected me to Canadian page and they have that in stock for 5.41CAD + shipping 6.49CAD BTW which T/S 17mm you have? Canon? Last edited by RAART; 03-17-2016 at 09:45 PM.

03-17-2016, 10:21 PM	#8
jbinpg Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Prince George, BC Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,546	I have a Manfrotto 405 geared head and it was the best money I ever spent. I am thinking of getting another one.

03-17-2016, 10:55 PM	#9
RAART Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Oakville, ON Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,095 Original Poster	Originally posted by jbinpg I have a Manfrotto 405 geared head and it was the best money I ever spent. I am thinking of getting another one. I am looking into Manfrotto 400 geared head as this is only I can find used in my area... The seller might settle for around 650CAD for it. Still do not know if I should go for it or wait to find 405 for lower price. Do you think that price for aorund 650$ is ok for 400 head?

03-18-2016, 03:25 AM	#10
RAART Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Oakville, ON Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,095 Original Poster	Originally posted by johnyates You might want to hang out with these folks: https://www.flickr.com/groups/photographyforrealestate/ Thanks! joined the group...

03-18-2016, 10:16 AM	#12
house Pentaxian Join Date: May 2015 Photos: Albums Posts: 3,306	First I'd suggest that architects and real estate brokers tend to have very different ideas of what makes a good photo. The most "commercial architects"* may share some ground with brokers. Few good architects would be happy about using flash for instance. (Always exceptions though) A good pan head should be fine for the tripod that's what most I know use. *common derogatory term