[BigMackCam]

Image?

Also if she is seeing F-- then standard Manual metering isn't going to work. That mode requires green button or depth of field preview with lenses that show as F--.

Oops. Image now added. And yes, you're right of course with regard to metering with the manual lens...

[jatrax]

the F is always followed by 2 --, no matter where I set the dial. I have it set to ISO 200, F/8, and various shutter speeds.

We need to know exactly what lens you are using. Some lenses will show this and it means they are all manual lenses and the camera cannot control them. Some lenses have an 'A' setting on the aperture ring and if the ring is in any other position the camera will just show 'F--'.

So let us know which lens you have and use the complete name as printed on the lens. 50mm f/2 is not enough as there were many different lenses made that say that.

[lauravp77]

Hi Laura. I think what you're asking is, how can you tell when looking through the viewfinder if you have the correct exposure set up, yes?

See the attached image from Ricoh's website. This shows the various elements of the K10D viewfinder. The part labelled "10" is the "Exposure level bar graph", and this is what shows whether you're under-, over- or correctly-exposing your scene. As you adjust your shutter speed and aperture (you'll see the values labelled "6" & "7" change accordingly), you want to get the line in the middle of that exposure level bar graph. You may need to adjust your ISO setting too.

Does that make sense?

Thank you BigMackCam, I totally got it now! I simply needed to set the aperture ring to A. Now it is showing up and I understand perfectly how to adjust the exposure. Woohoo!

[BigMackCam]

Thank you BigMackCam, I totally got it now! I simply needed to set the aperture ring to A. Now it is showing up and I understand perfectly how to adjust the exposure. Woohoo!

Well done! Stick at it, and shout if you need help

[lauravp77]

We need to know exactly what lens you are using. Some lenses will show this and it means they are all manual lenses and the camera cannot control them. Some lenses have an 'A' setting on the aperture ring and if the ring is in any other position the camera will just show 'F--'.

So let us know which lens you have and use the complete name as printed on the lens. 50mm f/2 is not enough as there were many different lenses made that say that.

I have a Tamron Aspherical AF 28-200mm and a Sigma APO DG 70-300mm. Both have the A setting on the aperture ring. I also have a manual lens 55mm f1.8 that does not have the A setting.


Now that I understand the bar, it'll make getting through this book much easier. Thank you everyone for the help!

[UncleVanya]

I have a Tamron Aspherical AF 28-200mm and a Sigma APO DG 70-300mm. Both have the A setting on the aperture ring. I also have a manual lens 55mm f1.8 that does not have the A setting.


Now that I understand the bar, it'll make getting through this book much easier. Thank you everyone for the help!

Watch the video on using manual lenses on Pentax and the 55 f/1.8 will make sense. That lens will need you to perform slightly different steps than the others.

[BigMackCam]

I have a Tamron Aspherical AF 28-200mm and a Sigma APO DG 70-300mm. Both have the A setting on the aperture ring. I also have a manual lens 55mm f1.8 that does not have the A setting.

For now, Laura, I'd advise you stick to the two lenses with A setting and leave them on that setting. The 55 1.8 manual lens you have is a great tool, but it adds an extra step of complexity in use that will probably only confuse at present. It's not that difficult, but let nothing distract you from that book for now...

So my book came in the post and I have been reading it. It says that I will the the correct exposure when I look into the viewfinder, but I don't know what I am looking for? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Later in the book, you'll discover how meters get fooled and how you can set exposure by metering a grey card or the palm of your hand +2/3 a stop. Years ago, just getting used to manual exposure, I was asked "Grandpa, why are you taking a picture of your hand?". I explained I wasn't, I was just getting an exposure setting on a bright, sunny day with lots of snow in the ground. After awhile, you can guesstimate pretty close and use the histogram to adjust. Haven't used camera meters in a long time. Have a little handheld incident meter though. The last 5 Pentax bodies I've bought have come out of the box, were set to "M" and off we go.

After awhile, I learned to use Sunny 16 as an anchor and adjust from there with histogram feedback, aka the modern Polaroid. Everything on my web sites & blogs was made that way.

Congratulations on the book, it has most of what you need you know about exposure.

[lauravp77]

Thank you everyone. I totally psyched with this book and now that I understand what he was saying!

[SpecialK]

Now that I understand the bar, it'll make getting through this book much easier. Thank you everyone for the help!

Petersen uses a couple phrases that threw me at a first, such as..."turning the aperture ring until f22 indicated the correct exposure"... (meaning he turned the ring until the correct exposure was indicated - which happened to be f22. Incidentally, most people agree, and resolution tests bear out, that even at f11 and smaller, diffraction can be an issue, so I was surprised he was using f16-22 routinely.)

Don't forget the "correct exposure" is the camera's guess. You may need to finesse it :-)
-

[lauravp77]

Absolutely SpecialK, I feel finesse is a key factor in a lot of photography