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10-18-2017, 02:53 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
You can repair it yourself with an $10 capacitor or whatever it was, if you have the skills.
This... you can also try to fix the one already in place.
I did it (on a K-30), and it's a bit time consuming, but definitely not impossible.

Besides, it will still work with lenses having an aperture ring.

10-18-2017, 03:18 PM - 1 Like   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
This... you can also try to fix the one already in place.
I did it (on a K-30), and it's a bit time consuming, but definitely not impossible.

Besides, it will still work with lenses having an aperture ring.
Out of interest, where did you get the solenoid to repair it? I'm trying to repair a friend's K-30, and have already tried the "filing down" method with very limited success. I'd like to source a solenoid, but can only find a relatively expensive component from the US which, with shipping costs and customs / handling charges to the UK, starts to mount up considerably...
10-18-2017, 03:41 PM   #33
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Thank you all for your suggestions and recommendations. I will definitely be upgrading to a K-70 or K-3ii, which one I have yet to decide on. As I'm working outside my home country for a short while I'll keep an eye on prices and if I find either at a good price I'll pull the trigger.
I'll also attempt the DIY fix for the K-50 - it's already knackered so can't really make it too much worse. If the fix is successful I'll keep it and sell the K-r. If it isn't then I'll sell it off as the broken bit of kit it is. I don't like the idea of being without a reserve camera and the K-r, while nowhere near as good as its successors, can still knock out good images.
Finally the tele lens may have to wait for finances to recover from the new camera purchase. When the time does come i'll check out the DA 55-300 or and the big sigmas (50-500 or 150-500)
10-18-2017, 03:44 PM - 1 Like   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Out of interest, where did you get the solenoid to repair it? I'm trying to repair a friend's K-30, and have already tried the "filing down" method with very limited success. I'd like to source a solenoid, but can only find a relatively expensive component from the US which, with shipping costs and customs / handling charges to the UK, starts to mount up considerably...
I didn't, I just filed it.
I took my time (about 15'), used a tiny file and took care that the two extremities were as smooth as possible.
It's working for the moment, we'll see in the future how it holds up.

I've read that those from optical drives in notebooks seem to work well.

10-18-2017, 03:50 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
I didn't, I just filed it.
I took my time (about 15'), used a tiny file and took care that the two extremities were as smooth as possible.
It's working for the moment, we'll see in the future how it holds up.

I've read that those from Optical drives in notebooks seem to work well.
Thanks I already filed off quite a bit of material from the corners of both legs of the plunger, and smoothed the edges. Whilst it's better than it was, it isn't completely fixed. I guess I could start to file away some of the length and see if that works...
10-18-2017, 04:52 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by D1N0 Quote
The K-3 (ii) and KP have better AF and build quality than the K-70. The K3 (ii) also offers a top lcd. But the K-3 (ii) is a generation behind in IQ compared to the K-70 and KP. Not that it still isn't very good. Between the K-3 and K-3 II. The K-3 II offers pixelshift resolution mode and GPS and star tracking, but lacks an on board flash. Also WiFi is only possible with an additional flu-card on both camera's.
A good tele option would be the HD Pentax-DA 55-300mm F4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE Reviews - DA Zoom Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database It is compact and relatively light but it has excellent IQ and fast AF.

I agree, and another point regarding the PLM, as far as I am aware, this lens will work just fine on the K-50 (with latest firmware) and the aperture will still work with this lens, even with the aperture block failure. No matter if the OP goes for K-70, K-3ii or KP, the additional money spent will get a lens that could give some new life to the K-50 and work perfectly on the new cameras being considered. I have it and use it for bird photography since the AF with this lens is so fast.
10-18-2017, 05:05 PM - 2 Likes   #37
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Why a K-3II over a K-70? Is it worth the extra cash? Let's see...

27 AF points versus 11.
25 cross-type AF points versus 9 points.
710 shots per battery versus 410.
Shutter Speed 1/8000 versus 1/6000.
Shutter life - the K-3II shutter is rated for 4X more actuations than the K-70.
Continuous shooting 8.3 frames per second versus 6.
Bigger RAW buffer 22 shots versus 11.
Memory card slots 2 versus 1.
Top LCD versus no top LCD.
K-3II has AF and AE buttons - K-70 uses one button for both functions.
K-3II has dedicated AE metering button while K-70 has to be accessed through the menu.
The K-3 II has dedicated auto-focus mode button used to switch between AF modes - on the K-70 it is done through the control panel or menu.
K-3II has a dedicated ISO button - on the K-70 this is done with the 4 way controller.
Rugged Magnesium alloy body versus polycarbonate - the K-3II can take a serious beating.

Short summary - the K-3II is a faster, more robust piece of equipment with superior AF and is highly customizable.


Last edited by Saltwater Images; 10-18-2017 at 05:09 PM. Reason: typo
10-18-2017, 05:21 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Saltwater Images Quote
Why a K-3II over a K-70? Is it worth the extra cash? Let's see...

. . .

Short summary - the K-3II is a faster, more robust piece of equipment with superior AF and is highly customizable.
To stick with Pentax or not - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

has a link comparing side by side

K 3 II vs. K 3 vs K 70

here it is again:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-cameras-compared/?c1=Pentax+K-3+I...c3=Pentax+K-70

the question in my mind ( yes despite what my sisters in law may claim, I do have one ) is whether it is better to buy an experienced K 3 or an experienced K 3 II

of course only the OP has a vote
10-18-2017, 05:22 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by Saltwater Images Quote
Why a K-3II over a K-70? Is it worth the extra cash? Let's see...

Short summary - the K-3II is a faster, more robust piece of equipment with superior AF and is highly customizable.
There are good arguments/reasons either way, but if youʻre leaning to the K-3II, I might suggest waiting just a bit longer so youʻll know what its successor has (no regrets?) and the soon to follow price drop.
10-18-2017, 05:49 PM   #40
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The lens you want it the DA 55-300 PLM and I'm pretty sure it doesn't work on a K-50 in any case.
10-18-2017, 05:57 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
The lens you want it the DA 55-300 PLM and I'm pretty sure it doesn't work on a K-50 in any case.
this chart is supposed to show what lenses work with what Pentax camera bodies

The Pentax Camera Lens Compatibility Chart

it indicates that the DA 55-300mm ED PLM WR RE

works with the K 1 and K-3, K-3 II, K-50, K-70, K-S1, K-S2

this is from the in depth review - https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/hd-pentax-da-55-300mm-f45-63-ed-plm-wr/....html?src=lrdb

" *This lens uses an electric focus-by-wire system and will not focus (even manually) on cameras older than the Pentax K100D super (2006).

**Because the aperture is controlled electronically, this lens can only stop down when used with compatible cameras. The Pentax K-50, K-S1, K-S2, K-3, K-3 II, and K-1 are supported via a camera firmware update; the Pentax K-70, Pentax KP and all 2017 or newer bodies will work out of the box. The aperture diaphragm will always remain wide-open on unsupported bodies. "


Read more at: https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/hd-pentax-da-55-300mm-f45-63-ed-plm-wr/...#ixzz4vuZFwXku

I have no personal knowledge either way
10-18-2017, 06:09 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
The lens you want it the DA 55-300 PLM and I'm pretty sure it doesn't work on a K-50 in any case.
Works with the latest firmware & it doesn't matter if the body's aperture motor works or not. The lens has its own aperture motor.
10-18-2017, 06:39 PM   #43
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That 55-300 PLM should be rather nice on the K-50 (after you firmware upgrade the K-50 to support it -- one is available if you haven't already). Plus it is all electronic AFAIK so it shouldn't even need the aperture motor dealy in the body.

If you need more reach than that with your Pentax.. look at maybe a Bigma 50-500, used Sigma zoom, or go Nikon D7200/D7500 or Canon 80D and get a Sigma 100-400 or 150-600mm. But, of course, that is going to cost you.. a lot.

Also remember with those bigger focal lengths generally comes bigger size and weight.. consider all the factors.
10-18-2017, 08:46 PM - 1 Like   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by hawaza Quote
Any advice on this is greatly appreciated as I keep flip flopping and can't decide.
Reading your budget expenditure figures, I would stick with Pentax and gradually build on the system. Given that you want to do bird photography, with Pentax your choices are limited mainly to the 150-450. With Canon and Nikon you have access to excellent Sigma and Tamron long zooms for reasonable prices. If I did serious bird or sports photography, I would probably go with Nikon as their focusing system is superior to Pentax.

I am a former Canon shooter. If I had to leave Pentax, I would go to Nikon for DSLR bodies, lens selection and third party lens support. If video was important I would go to Sony mirrorless for an all-in-one solution.

As mentioned by other forum members, the switching will be costly and may even be cost prohibitive. Also remember that regardless of the brand, long lenses and long zooms are expensive and will dwarf the cost of mid-range bodies.

Pentax bodies that I have owned (K5, K3 and K1) have been very reliable. However, I have never put the kind of mileage on them that I put on my Canons (70,000 plus clicks) on a regular basis.
10-19-2017, 04:55 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Thanks I already filed off quite a bit of material from the corners of both legs of the plunger, and smoothed the edges. Whilst it's better than it was, it isn't completely fixed. I guess I could start to file away some of the length and see if that works...
Just a hunch I have... I think symmetry is important... if the forces acting on the U-shaped iron are asymmetrical, the likelihood of it becoming jammed could be higher.
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