[clackers]

The first thing I'd do looking at the image above would be test the camera you used to see if the lens needs calibration. It looks like there's a DoF issue to me.The sharp part of the images seems to be plane where the little tear drop cuts in the linen, well in front of, well everything.

The exif says you took this at ƒ2.5. I'm not sure that kind of ƒ stop is conducive to still life. Is there a reason for F2.5 and 1/30s. IN a similar situation I'd go to at least ƒ8 and a tripod exposure on 2 second delay. The results are pretty good if that's what you were trying to achieve, but the softnewss is not about the lens. It's about DoF and focus.

I'm not sure it was taken with a DSLR, Norm ... check out the CCD size in Exif.

[jatrax]

The exif says you took this at ƒ2.5. I'm not sure that kind of ƒ stop is conducive to still life. Is there a reason for F2.5 and 1/30s. IN a similar situation I'd go to at least ƒ8 and a tripod exposure on 2 second delay.

Good point. When I do food shots with a similar display of items (multiple plates / glasses / etc) I use at least f/11 and often f/13. On a tripod with lights as I want. 2 second timer or a wired remote. It is 'still life' so nothing is going to move it you use a 60 second shutter speed.
The trick is getting the background far enough back to blur it out but still keep the items in the display as much in focus as I want.

---------- Post added 12-07-17 at 11:59 AM ----------

I'm not sure it was taken with a DSLR, Norm ... check out the CCD size in Exif.

That is odd, as the OP says he is using a K-5II and 100mm macro. But the EXIF says differently.

[BrianR]

The DFA50mm is plastic but it doesn't feel like a cheapo plastic kit lens, it's well made. My dfa100mm (the non-WR model) has a similar build and has been handled pretty roughly for 8 years with no issues. To each their own though, and the older 50mm macros (or non-macros if you don't need the magnification) are also dandy.

As to second guessing the settings, there's a candle flame in the image and this can limit the shutter speed of the exposure if you're after a certain look. ISO could possibly have been sacrificed in favour of aperture, but the exif on that photo also indicates it was taken with a canon 60d, so it's confusing all around and hard to know what's accurate.

[Kerrowdown]

Best lens for still life

A second recommendation for the Pentax-A 50mm F2.8 Macro my “Femme Fatale”.

[btnapa]

In the future i may get a full frame and possible a 645, which of the two you think is more suitable for still life photos considering also the price difference?

It depends on how big you are going to print your images. I have gotten excellent results from my K5IIs, K3 and now K1. They all produce excellent results. For macro work I have used a Pantax F50mm f2.8, A120 Macro from 645 line of lenses and more recently the Pentax DFA 100 macro. They all produce world class images. The 50mm with the crop factor making it a 75 might be the best bet as an all around starter lens for you. If you are thinking of going to full frame at some point, make sure you get a FF compatible lens now so that you are future proof.

[Wingincamera]

I don't do a lot of still life pictures, but I do have both the DA 35mm F2.8 Macro and the FA 50mm F2.8macro and like both of them. I don't know if this photo is an example of still life, I just took it today with the 35. It is a composite of four photos stacked in PS for sharpness.