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04-09-2019, 06:52 PM - 1 Like   #136
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
You poor boys.
Fix Or Repair Daily.
And yes, you are being trolled.
Full disclosure, I drive a Nissan diesel half ton.
Mock away....
No mocking is needed. after you said Nissan, it does a pretty good job itself.



04-09-2019, 06:53 PM   #137
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andrea K Quote
A phase detect sensor that can recognize an eye!? How on earth?
QuoteOriginally posted by amstel78 Quote
Ask the Sony engineers.
The answer is that Sony does not do it with the AF system. They do it by real-time frame analysis after initial focus has been attained.


Steve
04-09-2019, 06:55 PM   #138
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QuoteOriginally posted by amstel78 Quote
You're referring to banding under particular lighting conditions at certain shutter speeds, are we not?
No, that is a different Sony issue.


Steve
04-09-2019, 07:16 PM - 1 Like   #139
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QuoteOriginally posted by iheiramo Quote
I understand the complain about Pentax AF from pro user perspective, who has to be able to catch just the right moment of competition to get paid. But from amateur, I don't. I admit that I don't have experience on Pentax AF, but if it doesn't work, don't use it. Shoot manual and Pentax will deliver great images. High burst mode and depending on the situation prefocus the lens or follow target with catch in focus and you get more than enough good shots to choose from if you understand the sport you are shooting.

M35/2.5 prefocus:


M135/3.5 CIF:


M50/4 macro prefocus:


M50/2 CIF:


M85/2 CIF:


M100/4 macro CIF:


M*300/4 CIF:


M*300/4 CIF:



And BIF to finish the series. I admit this swallow flying fast thru the doorway wasn't easy to catch and took about 100 shots to get one really good. But that's all I wanted and it was very satisfying to pull it of.

M100/4 macro prefocus:


In sport shots above an AF wouldn't have helped much. In BIF bird came so fast around corner, that I couldn't look thru viewfinder. I kept camera pointed in right direction and had barely enough time to press button. I don't believe that even the best available AF would have been any help. In sport shots taken with catch in focus a reliable AF would've freed me from focusing, but final image would've been same. Poor AF could've ruined it. BTW all shots taken with K30 and K5 so not even newest AF generation and apparently already those had good enough AF to shoot sports with CIF. K1ii feels a lot better, but haven't had time and opportunity to shoot much sports with it yet.
I love it! Those truly rock and your comments cut to the core of the matter.


Steve

04-09-2019, 10:16 PM - 1 Like   #140
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fcsnt54 Quote
No mocking is needed. after you said Nissan, it does a pretty good job itself.
Is that the best you got?
Lame.
And sad. Very sad.
04-09-2019, 10:39 PM - 2 Likes   #141
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
Is that the best you got?
Lame.
And sad. Very sad.
i mean "Need I say Something about nothing?" or are there "nine idio...." Ill just stick with that first one... haha
04-10-2019, 12:44 AM   #142
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QuoteOriginally posted by Merv-O Quote
Reh: I agree with Marcjeerling on this one: the single point center is faster on the K-5 ii, as it hunts less. I use my 50-200mm and 50-300mm SMC lenses on the K-5ii because it sems both come form the same time period and while I can't prove this, it appears that the K-5ii makes these lenses shine. Again, tghat is purely anecdotal but that's what it seems like.
The center focus point of any camera is the fastest/accurate/precise one. New pro models or the sport oriented cameras have 3, 5 or more fast af points (usually dual cross type af) all of them being located around the center one to help photographers to track subjects with a group of 5 af points when the single one is not enough.

If I'm not mistaken, K1 has 3 cross type af points sensitive to f2.8 lenses (one above and one below the center point) so when you have the group of 9 af points activated, those 3 af points will be the ones that will first try to nail focus. That's why I keep an eye on cameras specs when I go out and test different cameras. Often people think that is enough just to change the af from af-s to af-c and af points from single to zone to get good results when shooting action. It's not and you have to take into consideration lots of things in order to get the best of the gear you have.

I also do simple tests at home by focusing on a small 3D object with the center af point activated and then I shoot again by selecting a different af point, but I make sure that the new af point selected can also be found when I select 5 or 9 af points. I do this test at 200mm f2.8 and also at f3.5 on a 70-200mm f2.8 lens for example so that I can have an idea based also on a specific distance if I have the subjects eye in focus with all af points. This way I know for certain when I go out and shoot action if the zone af (9 af points activated when you use K3 or K1) is suited or not at fast apertures for specific subjects. I know that there are DOF calculator programs that I can use, but I like to do my own tests because i like to practice rather than read/watch stuff on internet/apps.

That's why I said a few comments back that at f2.8 and with 9 af points activated it is more difficult to get the eye in focus and if you don't have the zone af with 5 af points instead of 9, it may be better to use single point af. It also counts how close to each other are the af points...

There are lots of tests that can be done and it takes some time to adapt the shooting style based on the gear you have, but if I have to shoot some action today with K1, my "problems" will be more related to fps and buffer rather than af. Comparing a sport camera with a field camera and setting a high standard for the field camera when comes to tracking doesn't help either when comes to enjoy shooting.

04-10-2019, 02:17 AM   #143
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My question is
I've heard the " Pentax HD DA 55-300mm f/4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE Lens" has crazy fast AF.
Would love to here feedback about this claim. Do they have a FF lens that competes with the AF speed of the PLM?
Also is there a Pentax lens that focuses like the PLM but has IQ of a * lens that's a medium fast constant aperture? I've rented a couple of * lenses but have not been overly impressed with the AF speed and have read about all the AF motor failing. I know they can be converted to screw drive. But really that's not what I would want to do to a top shelve lens!! Could a lot of the problem with the AF be the lenses?
I to have been a long time Pentax shooter but have been frustrated with AF speed/accuracy. I've invested a small amount into an Old Canon 1D III & 70-200 4L and enjoy using that for unpredictable sports. My keepers % is much higher with them.

Thanks
Photobill
04-10-2019, 03:11 AM   #144
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Rentea Quote
There are lots of tests that can be done and it takes some time to adapt the shooting style based on the gear you have, but if I have to shoot some action today with K1, my "problems" will be more related to fps and buffer rather than af.
Dan, that is true....Just want to add a few supplemental comments. It's also how fast the lens focuses (motor, focal point, f/factor, etc.) That's why serious and well-seasoned photographers can capture virtually anything with skill. the camera alone is not enough. Oh sure, plenty of iPhone "Pro" shooters out there, and they'll hit the mark once in a while, but I wouldn't want to crop that pic or enlarge it. I love changing my focus points and I like to do it on the fly so I prefer center point. It's style I prefer. Sometimes I will add vignetting to the corners of certain pics in PP to emphasize my center subject. With macro not as much, but with certain prime lens pictures certainly.

---------- Post added 04-10-19 at 03:19 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Photobill Quote
I've heard the " Pentax HD DA 55-300mm f/4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE Lens" has crazy fast AF.
I use this lens primarily on my K-3ii and KP and have enjoyed the results. I also tend to use manual focus quite a bit, because once I have aperture and ISO speed set for the moment, I can fast focus the 55-300mm quickly. Focus Peaking on the K-1 is also quite good. On the K-3ii and the KP, the 55-300mm is actually extended to 83-450mm. It's relatively light for that type of coverage and I find it a great value for the price point--highly recommended.
04-10-2019, 03:20 AM   #145
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QuoteOriginally posted by Photobill Quote
My question is
I've heard the " Pentax HD DA 55-300mm f/4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE Lens" has crazy fast AF.
Would love to here feedback about this claim. Do they have a FF lens that competes with the AF speed of the PLM?
Also is there a Pentax lens that focuses like the PLM but has IQ of a * lens that's a medium fast constant aperture? I've rented a couple of * lenses but have not been overly impressed with the AF speed and have read about all the AF motor failing. I know they can be converted to screw drive. But really that's not what I would want to do to a top shelve lens!! Could a lot of the problem with the AF be the lenses?
I to have been a long time Pentax shooter but have been frustrated with AF speed/accuracy. I've invested a small amount into an Old Canon 1D III & 70-200 4L and enjoy using that for unpredictable sports. My keepers % is much higher with them.

Thanks
Photobill
Newer lenses like the DFA 24-70 and DFA 70-200 have faster auto focus than older SDM driven lenses. As far as auto focus motor failures, those were primarily an issue with the DA * zooms, mostly the 16-50 and 50-135. Not a reason to be particularly concerned about the newer lenses with DC motors and ring motors. Obviously any time you put a motor in a lens there is a risk of failure, but there certainly have been many reports of them with the newer lenses.

The DFA 70-200 f4 may be what you are looking for and should come out later this year (hopefully).
04-10-2019, 05:43 AM - 2 Likes   #146
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QuoteOriginally posted by Merv-O Quote
Dan, that is true....Just want to add a few supplemental comments. It's also how fast the lens focuses (motor, focal point, f/factor, etc.) That's why serious and well-seasoned photographers can capture virtually anything with skill. the camera alone is not enough. Oh sure, plenty of iPhone "Pro" shooters out there, and they'll hit the mark once in a while, but I wouldn't want to crop that pic or enlarge it. I love changing my focus points and I like to do it on the fly so I prefer center point. It's style I prefer. Sometimes I will add vignetting to the corners of certain pics in PP to emphasize my center subject. With macro not as much, but with certain prime lens pictures certainly.
There are tons of variables... some people have problems shooting action handheld with heavy lenses like 150-450mm. Some have problems shooting action with slow fps cameras. Some have problems due to the fact that they hold so tight the body with the right hand and instead of a gentle push of the shutter button they press it like if the shutter button is fighting them. I've often seen photographers that shoot action or portraits at f1.4 or f1.8 and their right hand is so tense that I'm wandering how they shoot.

There is not an universal method for best results when comes to shooting action. It's try and error until you find the best settings. Once you found those settings (based of course on the gear you have) you start shooting with success. If you want even better results, first you have to test a better lens, a better camera or both at the same time. Usually one of them is the problem. And another important thing: the best settings for me may not be the best for you because human factor is involved and we are different.

I like going out shooting with pro photographers because I learn lots of interesting things when comes to how they approach different subjects. Even if we are 3 or 5 photographers shooting with exactly the same camera and lens, often we have different settings and af configurations. I hate for example back button focus. Other hate the half press of the shutter method of focusing and so on.
04-10-2019, 06:40 AM - 1 Like   #147
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Rentea Quote
Some have problems due to the fact that they hold so tight the body with the right hand and instead of a gentle push of the shutter button they press it like if the shutter button is fighting them. I've often seen photographers that shoot action or portraits at f1.4 or f1.8 and their right hand is so tense that I'm wandering how they shoot.
It actually took me quite a few years of shooting before I even realised I was doing this. It's only in the last four years or so that my lens hand takes most of the weight, while my camera hand has a relatively gentle hold on the grip, with shutter activation an equally gentle squeeze. It makes a huge difference in steadiness, makes tracking easier, and is far less tiring.
04-10-2019, 08:27 AM - 2 Likes   #148
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
It's only in the last four years or so that my lens hand takes most of the weight, while my camera hand has a relatively gentle hold on the grip, with shutter activation an equally gentle squeeze. It makes a huge difference in steadiness, makes tracking easier, and is far less tiring.
Absolutely. The right hand should be relaxed while the left hand has to be the one that should act like a tripod with gimbal. If the right hand is tense, it affects the entire shooting experience and if one is shooting at fast apertures or with big tele lenses, problems becomes to be visible very soon. To me, this apparently tiny thing improved visible my results once I became aware of it.
04-10-2019, 08:41 AM - 1 Like   #149
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
It actually took me quite a few years of shooting before I even realised I was doing this. It's only in the last four years or so that my lens hand takes most of the weight, while my camera hand has a relatively gentle hold on the grip, with shutter activation an equally gentle squeeze. It makes a huge difference in steadiness, makes tracking easier, and is far less tiring.
You are also far less likely to roll the camera when pressing the button with an eased right hand grasp. It’s less of a problem with IBIS cameras, but in lens stabilization cannot correct for that type of movement.
04-10-2019, 08:43 AM - 1 Like   #150
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
You are also far less likely to roll the camera when pressing the button with an eased right hand grasp. It’s less of a problem with IBIS cameras, but in lens stabilization cannot correct for that type of movement.
That's one of the very problems I used to have, Bill... rolling the camera to the right. It's visible in a number of my earlier shots I still have to check myself occasionally on my right hand grip, as every now and then I drift back to my old ways, but it's happening less and less often
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