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10-07-2019, 11:27 AM   #76
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QuoteOriginally posted by peggers Quote
Interesting set of opinions here. On this subject, what do the folk here use for in camera noise reduction? Do you use it at all? If you do use it what settings do you use?
When shooting JPEG with any camera, I switch off noise reduction and sharpening or reduce them to the minim possible settings. In-camera noise reduction settings usually only apply to luminance noise (i.e. "grain", for want of a better term) rather than colour. Switching it off results in the maximum possible detail being recorded, and you can always add gentle luminance noise reduction and sharpening in post-processing if required.

10-07-2019, 09:54 PM   #77
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usually I try to keep the ISO as low as possible - I'm shooting mainly landscapes, mostly taking my time to set up a tripod...but I go higher when action is involved (moving water, wildlife in general, cars) or when it comes to low light (aurora, concerts)

on my K-3 I used 3200 as a maximum- when shooting aurora or concerts, but if possible I kept it lower- the noise simply was quickly becoming unpleasant. I do however accept a bit of noise when doing black and white...
on my K-1 I allow for a higher ISO, currently I allow go up to an ISO of 5000 when shooting aurora, and allowing a bit more ISO for action (if needed)....
10-19-2019, 09:25 PM   #78
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I've had good results with my KP as high as ISO 20000, provided exposure is correct. The in-camera JPEGs are very well done for high ISO.
12-12-2019, 06:27 PM - 1 Like   #79
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Sensor Accelerators?

QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Given that most of us shoot with sensors that are ISO Invariant I wonder if we put too much thought into this if we are shooting raw.
I'm not sure some of the newer cameras are ISO invariant anymore. Do you know? I'd be curious. I looked at the dynamic range vs iso chart at photonstophotos and the KP and K1 ii both show non-linear dependence. I suspect this is due to the accelerator on these newer cameras, but I don't know. Input from others would be useful.

For what it's worth, I took a handful of shots with my KP at varying ISO and then increased exposure in post to have them all match. I found in my small test that I got better results by raising ISO in camera to expose correctly up front.

12-13-2019, 07:56 AM   #80
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QuoteOriginally posted by eric3929 Quote
I'm not sure some of the newer cameras are ISO invariant anymore. Do you know? I'd be curious. I looked at the dynamic range vs iso chart at photonstophotos and the KP and K1 ii both show non-linear dependence. I suspect this is due to the accelerator on these newer cameras, but I don't know. Input from others would be useful.

For what it's worth, I took a handful of shots with my KP at varying ISO and then increased exposure in post to have them all match. I found in my small test that I got better results by raising ISO in camera to expose correctly up front.
I thought the raw sensors were still largely invariant but I shoot a k-3 so I can't verify your results given the lack of accelerator. I think the accelerator would complicate determining the effects of iso on the sensor.
12-21-2019, 05:14 AM   #81
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With KP from time to time ISO12800. Usually 6400 is the maximum value.
12-21-2019, 07:30 AM   #82
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With my old K-7, ISO 2,500 was the maximum I would go too. With the K-3 I could push it a little higher, and have some usable sports shots at ISO 12,800 (just don't enlarge them much). However, I like to stay below ISO 3,200 (or possibly 6,400 on the K-70).
12-21-2019, 07:53 AM   #83
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When I first switched to digital and purchased a K10D, I generally stayed at ISO 400 or under and would occasionally shoot at 800. The max of ISO 1600 wasn't really usable unless I wanted a grainy B&W look. The higher ISO capability of the K5 was what led me to upgrade. I now feel comfortable shooting at ISO 1600 for anything and have had usable shots at up to ISO 12800 although I hold to the rule that the lowest ISO needed is what you should use.

12-21-2019, 12:37 PM   #84
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I rarely go above 6400
12-21-2019, 04:13 PM   #85
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12 800 is good on the KP, 800 on K7,1600 K5.
12-21-2019, 05:01 PM   #86
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Given that most of us shoot with sensors that are ISO Invariant I wonder if we put too much thought into this if we are shooting raw.
Very much so. Last summer I miss-set my K-30, then photographed an usual {to me} train locomotive that went by. I read the photo into RawTherapee, and I doubt if anyone will recognize that I in essence doubled {or more} the ISO post-facto. I normally don't do that - but I will if I have no other way of saving the situation.

added: I took another photo {below} on a jaunt that I had to drastically reduce the exposure, but RawTherapee worked there too.
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Last edited by reh321; 12-21-2019 at 05:08 PM.
12-21-2019, 05:13 PM   #87
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
Very much so. Last summer I miss-set my K-30, then photographed an usual {to me} train locomotive that went by. I read the photo into RawTherapee, and I doubt if anyone will recognize that I in essence doubled {or more} the ISO post-facto. I normally don't do that - but I will if I have no other way of saving the situation.

added: I took another photo {below} on a jaunt that I had to drastically reduce the exposure, but RawTherapee worked there too.
To be fair doubling iso is only one stop. That is a pretty minor adjustment. But it does make the point that post adjustment can be pretty painless.
01-09-2020, 10:22 AM - 1 Like   #88
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My answer may be slightly more analog- a few years ago my answer would've been 200. I have stopped using fuji superia (it's no longer cheaper...), and now would be confident in going up to 400 (at least in portra). If i had full control of the sun (would be a neat party trick), i would only shoot at 100.


That being said, i am venturing into the iso800 world, and will see what sort of results I can get.
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