[camera_nut]

There have been a few times l've needed to do this. You can make the fence go out of focus so bad it disappears. But that only works with long focal lengths and wider apertures. My Canon EF-m 15-45mm and Pentax 50 f/2A have a small 49mm filter thread. l thought about getting 2 ultra cheap 49mm filters and removing the glass. And stacking the metal rings on the lens to help guide the lens through the square hole. Then l decided to order a 49mm polarizer for this. Why a polarizer? Because l like to use polarizers outdoors if it can help with blue skies or reducing glare off of water or glass. And polarizers tend to be thicker so that would help guide the lens through the hole. Even if there's a little vignetting on the 15-45 and l have to zoom to 17 or 18mm, that's ok. Anyone have suggestions for shooting through chain link?

[SharkyCA]

There have been a few times l've needed to do this. You can make the fence go out of focus so bad it disappears. But that only works with long focal lengths and wider apertures. My Canon EF-m 15-45mm and Pentax 50 f/2A have a small 49mm filter thread. l thought about getting 2 ultra cheap 49mm filters and removing the glass. And stacking the metal rings on the lens to help guide the lens through the square hole. Then l decided to order a 49mm polarizer for this. Why a polarizer? Because l like to use polarizers outdoors if it can help with blue skies or reducing glare off of water or glass. And polarizers tend to be thicker so that would help guide the lens through the hole. Even if there's a little vignetting on the 15-45 and l have to zoom to 17 or 18mm, that's ok. Anyone have suggestions for shooting through chain link?

Not something I would subject my lenses to but have you thought about putting your lens in a clear acrylic tube before pushing it through the fence? The link below is approx. 7" X 3.75" in size.


1pc 200mm Length Clear Acrylic Plexiglass Lucite Tube 100mm OD 95mm ID Diameter | Wish

[Kobayashi.K]

I regularly shoot building projects in progress and make series from it, sometimes over the course of several years. They are always fenced up and the worst type is the chain link fence indeed. I like to use my DA 21mm for this which has the right length (on APS-C) and it has a front diameter of only 50mm, including the standard hood which comes with the lens. This is the smallest diameter of all my lenses I have (Pentax and Nikon) and in practice it is small enough to stick through the holes and I get no scratches on it until now.

p.s. The short M42 lenses also have a small diameter, but when you put a hood on it the advantage disappears. So, it's usually the diameter of the hood that is the limiting factor.

[aslyfox]

i guess a chain link fence cutter isn't an option



when I am attempting to make a fence/netting disappear I am not usually close enough [ zoo/baseball games ] to try to insert my lens physically into the fence/net

would placing the end of the lens into cardboard or paper work so long as the wrapping material does not extend so it is visible in the lens point of view ?

[Kobayashi.K]

i guess a chain link fence cutter isn't an option
....

Beware the surveillance cameras.

[Bruce Clark]

Photoshop if all else fails

Shot through a mesh fence. A little bit that did not work too well. If I revisit this image I bet I can fix it better.

[3by2]

Photoshop if all else fails

Shot through a mesh fence. A little bit that did not work too well. If I revisit this image I bet I can fix it better.

Impressively close as well, 100mm lens, lovely shot.

[RoxnDox]

If you are able to use a wide enough angle for your subject, hold the camera up over the top of the fence (or use it as a rest), use Liveview to compose, and fix any tilting in post... I have done that with reasonable success.

[FozzFoster]

I found this video helpful for me:

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

[35mmfilmfan]

First, check whatever is on the other side of the fence for teeth, claws, talons or ability to projectile vomit (either end !). To look over the fence, I have used a monopod to raise the camera, firing it with an IR release - bit hit and miss, but a certain measure of success.

[leekil]

I've typically used a lens that is small enough to stick through the fence. I would think that the 50/2 would fit, but I have used 40mm and 43mm. Maybe DA35?

[Kobayashi.K]

I've typically used a lens that is small enough to stick through the fence. I would think that the 50/2 would fit, but I have used 40mm and 43mm. Maybe DA35?

The DA 35 Macro can be used as a normal lens (almost 50 mm equivalent on APS-C), the built-in hood has a diameter of 55 mm.
The diameter of the original hood MH-RA 49 on the FA 43 is 54 mm.
This hood can also be used on the DA 40 (looks very good).
The DA 21 is still the winner with a hood diameter of 51 mm, and additionally it has a square opening of only 34x25 mm so you can peep through very small openings indeed if they are not too deep.
It also depends on the focal length you need of course.

[troika]

The included hood with the DA70/2.4 fits perfectly between chain links. I put it on my F70-210 and shoot Little League baseball with it.

[camera_nut]

Those that suggested using a monopod and putting the camera over the fence-l didn't like that method at all. When l had my Nikon D5300, i tried it. l tilted the articulating screen down and used live view. But the screen was barely visible in bright light. And that method just seemed so awkward for me.

---------- Post added 02-29-20 at 04:00 AM ----------

The included hood with the DA70/2.4 fits perfectly between chain links. I put it on my F70-210 and shoot Little League baseball with it.

That hood is $$$. For much less $$ l could get 4 cheap 49mm UV filters on Ebay from China, remove the glass from them, and stack them.

[troika]

Yeah, for sure. I happened to have a DA70 so I tried it. You're right. You could get there with cheaper, more readily available materials.