[biz-engineer]

Presumably you're using catch in focus then?

I'm not using catch-in-focus because it works with manual focus lenses. I use pre-focus and frame (prepare for action) and re-focus-shot action in AF.S (focus priority). Pre-focus reduces the distance that the lens group would have to travel to reach focus position near the subject, so that the re-focusing time is very short. The shutter button is pressed fully so that the delay between focus lock and exposure is minimal, so that if the bird moves between the focus lock event and shutter open, the focus error is minimized.

[3by2]

I started more frequent bird photography last year. At first i couldn't even have a picture at all, the bird would just fly away

Ah yes, nearly as soon as you raise the camera. On a serious note, I still have the focus bleep turned on and I wondered if birds are sensitive to this kind of noise. Bearing in mind it's a screw drive lens, so it's not exactly quiet anyway but so long as I get the pre-focus distance right and it doesn't hunt, it's OK.

---------- Post added 27-07-21 at 09:35 AM ----------

I'm not using catch-in-focus because it works with manual focus lenses. I use pre-focus and frame (prepare for action) and re-focus-shot action in AF.S (focus priority). Pre-focus reduces the distance that the lens group would have to travel to reach focus position near the subject, so that the re-focusing time is very short. The shutter button is pressed fully so that the delay between focus lock and exposure is minimal, so that if the bird moves between the focus lock event and shutter open, the focus error is minimized.

Ah got it. I think I would struggle to manualyl focus the Tamron. It has a clutch which needs engaging and a very short focus throw, it's a downside of the lens for this kind of work I would think. I do use the same technique though of pre-focusing on the area I want, as explained above.

[normhead]

I'm not using catch-in-focus because it works with manual focus lenses. I use pre-focus and frame (prepare for action) and re-focus-shot action in AF.S (focus priority). Pre-focus reduces the distance that the lens group would have to travel to reach focus position near the subject, so that the re-focusing time is very short. The shutter button is pressed fully so that the delay between focus lock and exposure is minimal, so that if the bird moves between the focus lock event and shutter open, the focus error is minimized.

With a K-3, AF-c slows the frame rate down so much it costs you images. Apparently with the K-3iii the issue has been resolved. But essentially that's my technique as well. The K-3 is the third best camera in the world at checking focus and responding immediately if focus lock has already been achieved in AF.s. Many other company's camera companies AF.c is as much as two or three times slower. With my original K-3, using focus then wait for the pose is the optimal use of the system. The K-3iii I suspect is different. Bird AF at 11 fps sounds like the best of everything.

[biz-engineer]

On a serious note, I still have the focus bleep turned on and I wondered if birds are sensitive to this kind of noise.

Birds are very sensitive to motion: moving hand, moving head they see it immediately and take off. Shooting behind an old carton with a hole in it to less the lens through it, is as effective as an expensive green camo tent, it's just because the carton prevent the bird to see motion when you move you head of you move your hand to operate the camera. Mammals are very sensitive to smell (they smell somebody is there half mile away depending on direction of the wind), motion and noise (near distance).

[normhead]

Birds are very sensitive to motion: moving hand, moving head they see it immediately and take off. Shooting behind an old carton with a hole in it to less the lens through it, is as effective as an expensive green camo tent, it's just because the carton prevent the bird to see motion when you move you head of you move your hand to operate the camera. Mammals are very sensitive to smell (they smell somebody is there half mile away depending on direction of the wind), motion and noise (near distance).

I find birds tend to see a lens as big huge eye. I can get close with my DA 55-300 PLM in way could never get away with on my Tamron 300 2.8. the size of the front glass matters. I think the birds see the front glass as big eye, and make judgements on how close they can get to you based on the size of the big eye, but I could be wrong, its just an impression.

[biz-engineer]

based on the size of the big eye, but I could be wrong, its just an impression.

We should ask the birds to know what they think about it

[normhead]

We should ask the birds to know what they think about it

The birds don't talk much to me. They think I'm beneath them.
"Your species has been around what? 150,000 years? Newbies.
Come talk to me when you've been around for a few million.

[3by2]

This guy thinks if I point the camera at him one more time he's gonna shove it where the sun don't shine........and I believe him



My bird table has gone quiet, my shed roof on the other hand has acquired a bouncer!

[C_Jones]

I use an F stop of F/13 usually if I have good light to have a nice depth of field for detail when shooting birds. That is why I usually look for a mostly sunny day to shoot them. For example, I was getting a shot of this Egret the other day, and I was using F/13, shutter speed 400, and ISO 200. I was using TAV mode which automatically selects the ISO after the user selects the F stop and shutter speed. The focus on the lower part of the Egret is affected by the tall grass in front of it, but the upper body has mostly nice focus, and the beak is partially blocked by a piece of tall grass.

I use AF mode continuous, and Spot (center point) AF area mode. If it is very bright light on the subject, sometimes I will use negative EV (-.3, -.7 for example) on the camera to reduce glare.

This isn't my best of shots for that day, and it is a crop, but it is a good standard example of what a user can achieve on a sunny day.

[ramseybuckeye]

Welcome to the world of shooting birds, it is not easy, there are so many variables to go wrong. Birds move, some move a lot faster than others, and most are unpredictable. I really started shooting birds to get better at focusing, then you get hooked. There is a ton of good advice in this thread already. And birds are very jumpy with noises and movements, even though a bird in a city park or at a feeder will become more used to people and less jumpy, sometimes. Back when I used the old screw drive DA55-300 I would prefocus with the qucikshift, or the noisy autofocus would scare them away. The center focus and AF-S is the most successful method for me, and I try to focus on their eye. And sometimes you'll have a bad day at it, don't get discouraged, the next time may be golden.

[jacamar]

Another skill to practice is aiming, by that i mean lifting your camera to the eye and having the bird in the viewfinder. Easier said than done with a long lens. It's hard to search for it and then try to compose and focus when they don't stand still for too long.

I used binoculars for many years even before I got into photography so I can usually get the bird into even a narrow field of view, but sometimes if the bird is in, say a wall of vegetation it can be hard, especially if you don't have focus. I often look for something more distinctive nearby like a bunch of spruce cones or a broken branch and establish the bird's location in relation to that, and it can act as a guide.
I am full of admiration for the professional guides I've seen in Central America who can set up a telescope and lock it onto a bird I can't even see without looking through the eyepiece.

[Des]

Thanks for starting this thread @3x2. It's an interesting topic and always good to hear the experiences of others.

there's a slight quality loss in the upload, so the detail you see in the chest of the crop is what I see in the head of the original

That's why most of us who post a lot of bird images here post from Flickr.

I was just hand holding, though resting my elbows on a table, trying to improve the technique with the equipment I have. I do regularly look at the 300mm lens club pictures but will pay closer attention to what people are doing to get results, especially now I've had a go myself.

Tripods are good if your subject will be in a predictable location, but for me it isn't usually like that. Most of my bird shots are handheld. With SR and good technique it's workable (until you get to long focal lengths and heavy lenses). Elbows on a table is potentially very stable. A doorway or post to lean on helps a lot. Otherwise, I just try to remember Heie's great advice here: Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - In-Depth Articles

I still have the focus bleep turned on and I wondered if birds are sensitive to this kind of noise. Bearing in mind it's a screw drive lens, so it's not exactly quiet anyway

I agree with Tom (@ramseybuckeye) that noises from screwdrive AF and focus confirmation can disturb skittish wildlife. I turn the beep off and rely on the confirmation symbol in the viewfinder.

I know the theme is technique, but you can't talk about focus results without mentioning the DA 55-300 PLM. Super fast and quiet AF - it really has helped my hit rate. It's also light weight, compact and versatile and and has very good IQ for a consumer zoom. When you are reasonably close, and the light is sufficient for the slow aperture, the image quality stands up well against bigger heavier more expensive lenses.


I would mention two other things not mentioned so far that can improve bird photography. The first is fill flash. It really helps with colour and feather detail and evening up the exposure. It can often make a big difference in poor light, provided you don't rely on it to gain more than 1 or 2EV. In this example, the Red Wattlebird was in shade and the light was dappled. A little flash made the exposure more even.


The second thing is software and processing. There is no substitute for focus accuracy, but there is often scope for bringing out detail and increasing attention on the subject, particularly with local adjustments. The trick is not to overdo it - you see a lot of over-sharpened images with artifacts and an unrealistic quality. One trick I have been using lately is reducing the microcontrast in the background, selecting the subject with control points (I used to use automask, but I now think control points work better) and increasing contrast and clarity a little. Some finishing touches with the Nik Collection (the free Google version works just about as well as the paid DxO version) really help. This one of a young Olive Whistler was processed in PhotoLab with a bit of treatment in Nik Color Efex Pro.

[normhead]

I agree with Tom (@ramseybuckeye) that noises from screwdrive AF and focus confirmation can disturb skittish wildlife. I turn the beep off and rely on the confirmation symbol in the viewfinder.

I've been asked to change from screw drive lenses and turn off the beep because I was ruining things for everyone.

[peggers]

I'm wondering if the 55-300 PLM might come into its own here with its very quick focussing? I also like the idea of a bird table because of the notion of bringing the birds closer to the photographer. I love the advice about using AFC and back button focussing. What a brilliant group this is!

[ramseybuckeye]

I use AF-C and "Back-Button-Focus" - you can focus when ever you want without shutter release, or release without new focussing.
And take care of a short shutter release time! The movement of a bird can be very small, but rather fast and that causes blurr sometimes.
So carry on and your hit rate will get better!

I love the advice about using AFC and back button focussing. What a brilliant group this is!

Yes, since changing to back button focus hit rate has improved for me too. It really is a nice improvement that you can make to any camera.