Originally posted by microlight There has been incremental improvement in the handling of high ISO noise with newer camera models, but there has also been incremental improvement in the ability of post-processing software to handle noise in raw files, so that letting ISO float over a six-stop ISO range while controlling shutter speed is probably more practical these days than it has been.
Absolutely. I think the improvements in in-camera high-ISO and in PP software in the last few years have been a quiet revolution. I'd suggest trying out programs with AI noise reduction, like Topaz or DxO PhotoLab (Elite edition). You should be able to get consistently good results with the K-3ii at 1600 and you can use 3200 or even 6400 where necessary.
I've been going back over some old shots I took with the K-3. As an extreme example, here's one I took in very poor light (well after sunset) at 6400 ISO, and even then it was underexposed by at least a couple of stops. (The koala was on our property - something pretty special.) So effectively something like 25000. OOC jpg (I was shooting RAW+)
After re-processing the RAW file with DxO PL5 with DeepPrime and Nik Color Efex Pro
I wouldn't choose to use these settings, and it's far from ideal - but it shows what can be done when the need arises.
This should help you overcome your aversion to floating ISO! I am one of those who mostly uses TAv. With the KP I generally cap the ISO at 3200, unless I need to go higher. With the K-3 I capped it at 1600 by default. At 400 ISO or 800 ISO there isn't much compromise at all.
Originally posted by microlight How do people here maintain their involvement with photography?
One thing I got from the lockdowns was improving my PP skills. I spent some time watching video tutorials, which was invaluable. I recommend Robin Whalley's tutorials, which cover a number of popular PP programs.
I also recommend trying the Nik Collection, especially Color Efex Pro and Silver Efex Pro. (You can still get the free Google version if you don't want to buy the DxO one - there's not much difference.) There are some excellent DxO tutorials on YouTube (
Nik Collection - YouTube). It works as a plug-in with other programs. So process as you normally would, then export as TIFF and take it from there in the relevant Nik program.
When photo ops are limited (as they are for me at present), you can go back and re-process old photos. There are nuggets to be found in the mine. B&W conversions are worth trying too.