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03-16-2023, 02:00 PM   #1
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Blown highlights when using Sigma 150mm-500mm

I have a Sigma 150mm-500mm lens that has a tendency to over-expose about 1 to 1 1/2 stops on most shots that have white areas in the image. Any suggestions?

03-16-2023, 02:29 PM   #2
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Apologies if you've already check this, but is your exposure comp dialed up to max? That could be over exposing them a little, what camera are you using? Does the lens do the same thing on all of your cameras or just one? Shooting in auto or manual?
03-16-2023, 02:29 PM - 3 Likes   #3
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A sample picture (with EXIF) would help.

If the whole image is over-exposed (except when the lens used is wide-open), it's possible the lens' aperture mechanism is broken or sluggish.

If you are using spot-metering (perhaps by accident), the camera will totally ignore the highlights unless that is what you pointed at.

If the scene is dominated by dark subject matter (a bird or animal in a tree), background bright areas (sky visible between the leaves) will likely be blown.
03-16-2023, 03:39 PM   #4
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You might have a slow iris. Have you checked?

03-17-2023, 01:24 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Batchy Quote
Apologies if you've already check this, but is your exposure comp dialed up to max? That could be over exposing them a little, what camera are you using? Does the lens do the same thing on all of your cameras or just one? Shooting in auto or manual?
I use this lens on multiple bodies, K-5, K-5lls, K-3 and all have similar results. I have gone through all of the settings and there is not any exposure compensation set, I use center-weighted averaging metering, and typically shoot in AV mode with this lens.

---------- Post added 03-17-2023 at 01:27 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by photoptimist Quote
A sample picture (with EXIF) would help.

If the whole image is over-exposed (except when the lens used is wide-open), it's possible the lens' aperture mechanism is broken or sluggish.

If you are using spot-metering (perhaps by accident), the camera will totally ignore the highlights unless that is what you pointed at.

If the scene is dominated by dark subject matter (a bird or animal in a tree), background bright areas (sky visible between the leaves) will likely be blown.
I posted some pictures in an album named Sigma 150mm-500mm blown highlights. I have tested the lens manually to verify the aperture is working properly and there don't appear to be be any issues.

---------- Post added 03-17-2023 at 01:29 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
You might have a slow iris. Have you checked?
I am not sure how to check this other than to look down into the lens and snap the shutter.
03-17-2023, 01:43 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by sawtooth235 Quote
I am not sure how to check this other than to look down into the lens and snap the shutter.
You can take a lens that works well and play with the aperture lever and see how quickly the blades close. Then take the one that is giving you problems and do the same thing and see if the blades move just as fast.
03-17-2023, 02:22 PM - 1 Like   #7
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Some lenses just meter differently as well. Why not just dial-in some EV compensation? That's what it's for. 1 1/2 stops seems like a lot, but it isn't unusual that I have to set some lenses to -.7 EV. And if you're center metering and the center is darker than the bright spots of course they are going to get blown out and you need to adjust for that. (Not really lens-specific though unless it is just a certain type of shot you are only taking with that lens.) You'll also get wonky exposure if you are locking-in exposure settings and then zooming in/out before hitting the shutter.

03-17-2023, 03:58 PM   #8
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My "bigma" tends to blown highlights when shooting seabirds against the water … the sea is a lot less reflective than the bird so the camera seems to try to even things out … I take it as "one of those things" and dial in -1 compensation when in that scenario, but otherwise it's OK.
03-20-2023, 05:16 PM   #9
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The photos look like I'd expect based on the exif data. Try setting to expose for highlights, if your camera has that ability. That will help.

I use manual exposure when the light hitting the subject doesn't change, like bright sunlight. Once I establish proper exposure, pressing AE-Lock allows me to change ISO, shutter or aperture, and the camera automatically changes other settings to keep the same exposure. I find it much easier than guessing the proper exposure compensation every time the composition values change (ie, water to foliage to sky, etc.)
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