[sculptor666]

hi all, i just bought an old elicar 50mm 1:1, and it's wonderful... but maximum magnification with (67mm) extension tubes isn't usable with the deeply recessed front element.... i can't get close enough to focus. on the other hand, any new 50mm macro (d-fa, sigma, whatever) does not have a recessed front element, so i'm wondering if that'll solve my problem? i don't mind being an inch away... insects in pennsylvania at this time of year are too cold to fly away. also, adding the raynox 250 doesn't do much on the elicar... i'm assuming it'll do more on a modern lens(same problem with the recessed front element).

i've tried reversing a 28mm on my d-fa wr 100mm, but dialing both apertures/ using a flashlight to focus is a little clumsy... and vignetting is too easy.

thanks!

[Ray-uk]

Sounds like you need a 100mm macro lens, this will give you a greater working distance.

Incidentally, when using one lens reversed on another then you only need to adjust the aperture of the lens that is connected to the camera, the reversed lens should have its aperture wide open.

[Not a Number]

Incidentally, when using one lens reversed on another then you only need to adjust the aperture of the lens that is connected to the camera, the reversed lens should have its aperture wide open.

The Extreme Macro website says you may get the best results in stopping down the reversed lens.

Coupling lenses for extreme macro

[Ray-uk]

The Extreme Macro website says you get the best results in stopping down the reversed lens.

This link says the opposite

Reverse Lens Macro: Close Up Photography Lesson #3 -


I've never tried it so perhaps either way works. Whichever method you use there isn't the need to stop down both lenses.

[BrianR]

I haven't tried many lens combos, but an A28/2.8 reversed onto my dfa100mm vignettes like crazy if I stop down the dfa100mm. No such problems if it's the reversed 28mm that gets stopped down and I leave the dfa100mm wide open..

[sculptor666]

thanks for the responses... not to sound ungrateful, but:

"i've tried reversing a 28mm on my d-fa wr 100mm, but dialing both apertures/ using a flashlight to focus is a little clumsy... and vignetting is too easy"

[K-Three]

Have you tried reversing the Elicar?
makes that recessed front element part of your extension,
Just a thought

[sculptor666]

i like auto aperture too much! but i'll try it!

[Not a Number]

This link says the opposite

Reverse Lens Macro: Close Up Photography Lesson #3 -


I've never tried it so perhaps either way works. Whichever method you use there isn't the need to stop down both lenses.

I corrected the link and added "may" which is what the page says. It is probably best to try either aperture to see which give the best results, but you are correct only one lens should be stopped down.

[Canada_Rockies]

The largest gain I have ever used is reversing an M 28/3.5 on a 52mm reversing ring on the body and a 52>49 filter ring. It gave 2.1X magnification. The distance from the subject was, naturally 43.46 mm, the registration distance on Pentax/Asahi cameras.

[dms]

A 2x teleconverter (or two of them) may be the simplest least expensive option. Likely about $15. for an older used one. Generaly they do quite well in the close up range, But macro (beyond about m=0.5) is likely always about picking a method that gives you acceptable results, least annoyance to do, able to carry with you, do double duty as a regular lens, acceptable $$$, etc..

And BTW a newer lens w/o an manual f-stop ring is very limiting--tough/impossible to add any extension.

[baro-nite]

What's the magnification you're trying to achieve? Since you already have the DFA 100, I assume you want to go past 1:1. Once you get into extreme macro territory, you have to deal with limits and compromise.

[sculptor666]

i'm above 2:1 already... trying to increase distance to the front of the lens... best solution/compromise i've come up with is adding extension tubes to non macro lenses that have large apertures (so viewfinder is still bright enough) and adding the raynox 250 (sometimes). for example, i took this a few minutes ago by my mailbox... da*55 1.4 plus 67mm extension plus raynox250 and on camera flash... which is about 2:1. focus distance to the front of the lens is about 1"




---------- Post added 11-30-15 at 12:36 PM ----------

(reversing the elicar didn't work)

[baro-nite]

i'm above 2:1 already... trying to increase distance to the front of the lens... best solution/compromise i've come up with is adding extension tubes to non macro lenses that have large apertures (so viewfinder is still bright enough) and adding the raynox 250 (sometimes). for example, i took this a few minutes ago by my mailbox... da*55 1.4 plus 67mm extension plus raynox250 and on camera flash... which is about 2:1. focus distance to the front of the lens is about 1"

Nice work there. 1" working distance at 2:1 isn't bad. Given that you already have the Raynox 250, and the requirements you've put forth, I suggest getting hold of a DA 55-300. I've never tried this combo, but others have and have shown good results. You'll have the brightness in the viewfinder you want, easily adjustable magnification, and (somewhat) better working distance.

[dms]

If you are OK w/ a very fast lens in the macro range, you may want to try using a true macro lens (or any good lens w/ a more symmetrical optical design) at roughly 1/2 the magnification (and thus a larger working distance) and them incresing magnification in croping/printing. I haven't tried it but I expect the resolution will be as good in the latter case--as fast lenses are (very) asymmetical and (thus) don't do well in the macro range.