Macro Going macro - a small use and show case (Achromat +3)

**acoufap** · 01-23-2016, 05:57 AM

I love making macro photographs. On travel I have my small kit with me: K5, DA15, DA18-135. The DFA100WR mostly stays at home. When taking images I sometimes also like to get closer than my DFA100WR allows. Then I use it together with the TC DA1.4x. Next step would be using an extension tube or achromatic close-up filter.

To serve both cases, stronger macro on travel and extreme macro, I decided to buy a Marumi DHG Achromat +3 Macro 62mm.

For those who are interested to see the magnification effect I show some images with cm-scale at approximately shortest distance. Taken fast and maybe a little inaccurate, handheld. You can use the Marumi 62mm +3 Achromat on DA18-135 without rim or strong vignetting starting at 28mm.

K5 - DA18-135@135 without achromat

K5 - DA18-135@135 plus Marumi +3

K5 - DA100WR without achromat

K5 - DA100WR step-up-ring 49-62mm plus achromat +3

K5 - DA100WR step-up-ring 49-62mm plus TC DA1.4x plus achromat +3

Last edited by acoufap; 01-23-2016 at 06:06 AM.

pathdoc · 01-23-2016, 06:33 AM

I must admit to preferring reversal rings and extension tubes (no extra optics in the light path), but damn, that's a good result.

Giklab · 01-23-2016, 07:53 AM

I just sold my 18-135 (already missing it lol) and included a 62mm +3 Hoya. Not sure if it was an achromat, but it took pretty nice pictures.

**baro-nite** · 01-23-2016, 08:21 AM

Originally posted by pathdoc

I must admit to preferring reversal rings and extension tubes (no extra optics in the light path), but damn, that's a good result.

I used to think that way too; it's so widely stated I assumed it was true. Then I did my own tests and found that things are more complicated. Supplementary lenses (including stacking ordinary lenses) can produce excellent results, and tend to do better in the corners than lenses reversed on bellows or extension tubes. Hard to say from the samples above, but certainly looks usable.

pathdoc · 01-23-2016, 08:59 AM

I haven't tried stacking myself - that comes next - but I certainly have heard good things. OTOH I have tried macro adapter front lenses, with what I thought were very poor results. I might give it another shot, but my personal experience so far is that the extension tubes do better. YMMV and probably does; we shall see.

**acoufap** · 01-23-2016, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by pathdoc

I haven't tried stacking myself - that comes next - but I certainly have heard good things. OTOH I have tried macro adapter front lenses, with what I thought were very poor results. I might give it another shot, but my personal experience so far is that the extension tubes do better. YMMV and probably does; we shall see.

Until now I don't use extension tubes. You lose ev-stops the same as if using TCs. So I guess the OVF gets darker. A disadvantage if you focus manually using the OVF.

Since I read good things about the achromat I decided to go this cheap route. Price was down to 65,- € and I was curious to see how it works in combination with my DA18-135 and DFA100WR-TC combination. Much glass doesn't mean bad results. And I think it works not that bad. Hope spring will come soon.

photolady95 · 01-23-2016, 09:40 AM

I do a lot of macro shooting, I have several methods that I use. But my question is, what's the working distance of your achromat setup?

**baro-nite** · 01-23-2016, 09:48 AM

Originally posted by pathdoc

OTOH I have tried macro adapter front lenses, with what I thought were very poor results.

No question, much depends on the quality of the glass. Raynox lenses have been shown to be excellent, in combination with appropriate lenses. From these samples Marumi looks at least reasonable, but I wouldn't say more without seeing a more careful test. OP is certainly correct that adding a supplemental lens doesn't reduce brightness the way extension does. It also gives you full camera function.

I'm not doing as much macro as I used to, but now my main use of extension or bellows is with a lens designed for it, i.e., a bellows lens.

**acoufap** · 01-23-2016, 11:42 AM

Originally posted by photolady95

I do a lot of macro shooting, I have several methods that I use. But my question is, what's the working distance of your achromat setup?

What we know is that the minimal working distance depends on the lens. We also know that an achromat always shortens the distance depending on its strength. There is for sure a formula to compute the effect / distance. But I don't know it.

But I did a quick test with the DA18-135@135mm as follows. I know that this is not an accurate test, but in my opinion it gives a sufficient indication without too much effort.

K5 on macro rail. A target with something written on it. It got sharp at a distance from object surface to the front element of the lens without any filters at ca. 17cm.

I screwed the Marumi 3+ (ca. 1.5cm thick) onto the lens. As expected the writing (target) was now very unsharp (nice bokeh

). So I had to shorten the distance. The writing got sharp at the distance of ca. 10cm to the front of the achromat filter respectively ca. 11.5 cm to the front element of the lens.

Does this answer your question?

photolady95 · 01-23-2016, 02:20 PM

Originally posted by acoufap

Does this answer your question?

Yes. Thank you.

**acoufap** · 01-24-2016, 03:00 AM

Originally posted by photolady95

Yes. Thank you.

Prima.

01-23-2016, 05:57 AM	#1
acoufap Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Munich, Germany Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,191	Going macro - a small use and show case (Achromat +3) I love making macro photographs. On travel I have my small kit with me: K5, DA15, DA18-135. The DFA100WR mostly stays at home. When taking images I sometimes also like to get closer than my DFA100WR allows. Then I use it together with the TC DA1.4x. Next step would be using an extension tube or achromatic close-up filter. To serve both cases, stronger macro on travel and extreme macro, I decided to buy a Marumi DHG Achromat +3 Macro 62mm. For those who are interested to see the magnification effect I show some images with cm-scale at approximately shortest distance. Taken fast and maybe a little inaccurate, handheld. You can use the Marumi 62mm +3 Achromat on DA18-135 without rim or strong vignetting starting at 28mm. K5 - DA18-135@135 without achromat K5 - DA18-135@135 plus Marumi +3 K5 - DA100WR without achromat K5 - DA100WR step-up-ring 49-62mm plus achromat +3 K5 - DA100WR step-up-ring 49-62mm plus TC DA1.4x plus achromat +3 Last edited by acoufap; 01-23-2016 at 06:06 AM.

01-23-2016, 11:42 AM	#9
acoufap Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Munich, Germany Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,191 Original Poster	Originally posted by photolady95 I do a lot of macro shooting, I have several methods that I use. But my question is, what's the working distance of your achromat setup? What we know is that the minimal working distance depends on the lens. We also know that an achromat always shortens the distance depending on its strength. There is for sure a formula to compute the effect / distance. But I don't know it. But I did a quick test with the DA18-135@135mm as follows. I know that this is not an accurate test, but in my opinion it gives a sufficient indication without too much effort. K5 on macro rail. A target with something written on it. It got sharp at a distance from object surface to the front element of the lens without any filters at ca. 17cm. I screwed the Marumi 3+ (ca. 1.5cm thick) onto the lens. As expected the writing (target) was now very unsharp (nice bokeh ). So I had to shorten the distance. The writing got sharp at the distance of ca. 10cm to the front of the achromat filter respectively ca. 11.5 cm to the front element of the lens. Does this answer your question? Last edited by acoufap; 01-23-2016 at 11:54 AM.

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01-23-2016, 06:33 AM	#2
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	I must admit to preferring reversal rings and extension tubes (no extra optics in the light path), but damn, that's a good result.

01-23-2016, 07:53 AM	#3
Giklab Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Slovenia Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,182	I just sold my 18-135 (already missing it lol) and included a 62mm +3 Hoya. Not sure if it was an achromat, but it took pretty nice pictures.

01-23-2016, 08:21 AM	#4
baro-nite Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,295	Originally posted by pathdoc I must admit to preferring reversal rings and extension tubes (no extra optics in the light path), but damn, that's a good result. I used to think that way too; it's so widely stated I assumed it was true. Then I did my own tests and found that things are more complicated. Supplementary lenses (including stacking ordinary lenses) can produce excellent results, and tend to do better in the corners than lenses reversed on bellows or extension tubes. Hard to say from the samples above, but certainly looks usable.

01-23-2016, 08:59 AM	#5
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	I haven't tried stacking myself - that comes next - but I certainly have heard good things. OTOH I have tried macro adapter front lenses, with what I thought were very poor results. I might give it another shot, but my personal experience so far is that the extension tubes do better. YMMV and probably does; we shall see.

01-23-2016, 09:31 AM	#6
acoufap Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Munich, Germany Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,191 Original Poster	Originally posted by pathdoc I haven't tried stacking myself - that comes next - but I certainly have heard good things. OTOH I have tried macro adapter front lenses, with what I thought were very poor results. I might give it another shot, but my personal experience so far is that the extension tubes do better. YMMV and probably does; we shall see. Until now I don't use extension tubes. You lose ev-stops the same as if using TCs. So I guess the OVF gets darker. A disadvantage if you focus manually using the OVF. Since I read good things about the achromat I decided to go this cheap route. Price was down to 65,- € and I was curious to see how it works in combination with my DA18-135 and DFA100WR-TC combination. Much glass doesn't mean bad results. And I think it works not that bad. Hope spring will come soon.

01-23-2016, 09:40 AM	#7
photolady95 Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: May 2009 Location: Cruising the forum watching his back Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,712	I do a lot of macro shooting, I have several methods that I use. But my question is, what's the working distance of your achromat setup?

01-23-2016, 09:48 AM	#8
baro-nite Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,295	Originally posted by pathdoc OTOH I have tried macro adapter front lenses, with what I thought were very poor results. No question, much depends on the quality of the glass. Raynox lenses have been shown to be excellent, in combination with appropriate lenses. From these samples Marumi looks at least reasonable, but I wouldn't say more without seeing a more careful test. OP is certainly correct that adding a supplemental lens doesn't reduce brightness the way extension does. It also gives you full camera function. I'm not doing as much macro as I used to, but now my main use of extension or bellows is with a lens designed for it, i.e., a bellows lens.

01-23-2016, 02:20 PM	#10
photolady95 Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: May 2009 Location: Cruising the forum watching his back Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,712	Originally posted by acoufap Does this answer your question? Yes. Thank you.

01-24-2016, 03:00 AM	#11
acoufap Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Munich, Germany Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,191 Original Poster	Originally posted by photolady95 Yes. Thank you. Prima.