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11-20-2015, 12:05 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by alex-virt Quote
What lens do you use? My K-S1 behaves differently with different lenses. Shutter shock is strongest with the kit zoom, less strong with 35/2.4, barely noticeable with Sigma 17-70 and absent with 50/1.8.
I first noticed it on the 50/1.8. Then I tried the 18-55 & 50-200 and it was there as well. Clearly it's mirror slap.
I've since taken the camera back.
I already have shutter shock issues with my Micro Four Thirds camera and don't want to deal with this any more than I have to.

Not sure where to go from here, I'm thinking EOS M3.

---------- Post added 11-20-15 at 12:08 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by patrick9 Quote
That is odd. I have the K30 basically the same as the K50. I don't have the blurred images from mirror slap. With SR on I can usually get down to 1/10th around the 50mm range and still have sharp images. On the other hand if I forget to shut SR off on the tripod I do get a bit of blur.
Have you relaly tested it out?

I ran an extensive series of shots at different apertures, focal lengths and shutter speeds, SR on & off and the phenomena is clearly there.

11-21-2015, 08:47 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Everhandy Quote
Have you relaly tested it out?
Not per-say. I look very closely at images I have taken and plan to keep. Especially the ones I plan on printing. As in pixel peeping in PS. as I look for things I may it need to correct. I have lenses I expect to be sharp and ones I know may not under certain circumstances . Sharp, or blurred is one of the things I check for generally. I find the blur I find is usually from the subject moving or me moving. As I get older I am not as steady as I used to be I have done testing when checking out my lenses Here is one K-30 Tamron90 Macro hand held 1/60 f9


l
This one hand held K-30 Promaster 28=105 lens wide open 1/30 thru a closed screen door focused on the center tree and rim

04-19-2016, 10:45 AM   #18
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Hi guys, I know this thread is a few months old, but I'm curious to find out if this has been found to be a problem to other K-S1 or K-S2 users. I'm considering a K-S1 as the prices are pretty good right now. I use normal lenses quite a bit indoors at speeds from 1/15 to 1/100 a lot, so I'm wondering if I should get another K20D instead. That camera (as proven by Falconeye) had no shutter shock vibrations, and I got great results from it in the past...
04-21-2016, 06:45 AM   #19
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As ChristianRock already knows, I've got a similar blurring problem with my K-S1 as described in this thread. In my case it affects all shutter speeds below 1/250, and I'm interested to know if anyone else suffers from the same thing.

I need to send the camera in to be checked under warranty, so it would be very helpful to establish if this is a fundamental design problem with the K-S1 or if it only affects a few cameras.

04-25-2016, 09:30 AM   #20
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Hey Dave, I found that the K-x apparently had a similar issue (and possibly all Pentax cameras that have a relatively lightweight body with the 1/6000s shutter).

See https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/91291-pentax-k-x...r-problem.html

That thread links to Pentax K-x SR problem: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review where a user had his shutter replaced under warranty but still didn't fix the problem... until he started using a flash mounted on his camera, turned off (it wasn't even a Pentax flash). Then the blur just disappeared (.

I'd be curious to see if you (or anyone else with the K-S1 blur problem) still experience the same results with a flash on...
04-25-2016, 10:14 AM   #21
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This could be why I've noticed a few not so sharp ones with the 50mm f1.8 and 40mm XS pancake at the indicated shutter speeds, the 16-85 seems ok though. I'll put my Canon flash on and try some tests.

*Update: tried a few with the 50mm 1.8 between 1/60 & 1/250, with or without the flash attached the images were virtually the same, however the images seemed sharper in live view.

Last edited by Barso; 04-25-2016 at 11:13 AM. Reason: update
04-25-2016, 11:38 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Barso Quote
This could be why I've noticed a few not so sharp ones with the 50mm f1.8 and 40mm XS pancake at the indicated shutter speeds, the 16-85 seems ok though. I'll put my Canon flash on and try some tests.
Hmmm it might do better with heavier lenses like hte 16-85.

Maybe this is the reason why, a few months ago, I was doing some comparisons between my DA 35 2.4 and my Tokina 19-35 at 35mm, and the Tokina seemed sharper even comparing both at f4.5! I'm pretty sure the shutter speeds were around 1/60s or so, this was in my basement. And this was on my K-r, which is also a light weight body with that same shutter - if the K-x has this issue the K-r does too, but I haven't thought I had any issues with my K-r until I learned about these issues with the K-S1 and K-x. I use a somewhat heavy flash mounted on the K-r most of the time (AF280T), especially during more critical shoots like family events, and that's usually when I see that the pictures always seem sharp enough.

QuoteQuote:
*Update: tried a few with the 50mm 1.8 between 1/60 & 1/250, with or without the flash attached the images were virtually the same,
Yes, but were they good, or were they blurry?

QuoteQuote:
however the images seemed sharper in live view.
Which ones seemed sharper, with or without flash? Looking sharper in live view probably just means you were holding it more steadily, I assume when the flash was on.
04-25-2016, 11:53 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Hmmm it might do better with heavier lenses like hte 16-85.

Maybe this is the reason why, a few months ago, I was doing some comparisons between my DA 35 2.4 and my Tokina 19-35 at 35mm, and the Tokina seemed sharper even comparing both at f4.5! I'm pretty sure the shutter speeds were around 1/60s or so, this was in my basement. And this was on my K-r, which is also a light weight body with that same shutter - if the K-x has this issue the K-r does too, but I haven't thought I had any issues with my K-r until I learned about these issues with the K-S1 and K-x. I use a somewhat heavy flash mounted on the K-r most of the time (AF280T), especially during more critical shoots like family events, and that's usually when I see that the pictures always seem sharp enough.



Yes, but were they good, or were they blurry?



Which ones seemed sharper, with or without flash? Looking sharper in live view probably just means you were holding it more steadily, I assume when the flash was on.
Using TTL with or without flash the images were in my opinion not as good as I hoped despite holding the camera very steady, I used the 50mm the other day outdoors with a lot faster shutter speed and they were better than I expected. The live view images were of the same subject and the camera was held the same way, maybe what I was seeing was a focus issue with the lens because the live view images looked a lot better side by side on the pc.

04-25-2016, 12:09 PM - 1 Like   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Hey Dave, I found that the K-x apparently had a similar issue (and possibly all Pentax cameras that have a relatively lightweight body with the 1/6000s shutter).

See https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/91291-pentax-k-x...r-problem.html

That thread links to Pentax K-x SR problem: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review where a user had his shutter replaced under warranty but still didn't fix the problem... until he started using a flash mounted on his camera, turned off (it wasn't even a Pentax flash). Then the blur just disappeared (.

I'd be curious to see if you (or anyone else with the K-S1 blur problem) still experience the same results with a flash on...

Thank you for the wonderful tip about the flash solving the problem! The light is too gloomy here this evening for any conclusive testing, but here's what I've found so far:

Big, heavy bounce flash (switched off): The blurring problem seems to have completely gone away.
Wireless flash trigger: Definite improvement, but not as much as the big bounce flash.
Metal tripod quick release plate with no flash attached: Also a definite improvement, but again not as much as the big bounce flash.

So the solution seems to be to increase the camera's mass as much as possible. This would also explain why a big, heavy zoom lens has less of a problem than a small, light prime -- more mass. Hopefully the light will be better sometime over the next few days so that I can do some conclusive testing, but the results so far are very promising. Thank you again for the best tip I've ever been given here on Pentax Forums!

Now if only there was a battery grip for the K-S1. I bet that much mass would solve the problem completely.
04-25-2016, 01:56 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dartmoor Dave Quote
Thank you for the wonderful tip about the flash solving the problem! The light is too gloomy here this evening for any conclusive testing, but here's what I've found so far:

Big, heavy bounce flash (switched off): The blurring problem seems to have completely gone away.
Wireless flash trigger: Definite improvement, but not as much as the big bounce flash.
Metal tripod quick release plate with no flash attached: Also a definite improvement, but again not as much as the big bounce flash.

So the solution seems to be to increase the camera's mass as much as possible. This would also explain why a big, heavy zoom lens has less of a problem than a small, light prime -- more mass. Hopefully the light will be better sometime over the next few days so that I can do some conclusive testing, but the results so far are very promising. Thank you again for the best tip I've ever been given here on Pentax Forums!

Now if only there was a battery grip for the K-S1. I bet that much mass would solve the problem completely.
I am very glad that this helped!

And we have to thank this guy Alex at "the other forum", who hasn't posted there ever since that thread, apparently... he's the one who found out about this

Not the most portable solution, perhaps... but for us on a budget, a good idea. I think that settles it, I'll get me a K-S1 as soon as I can swing it...
05-11-2016, 06:30 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Hey Dave, I found that the K-x apparently had a similar issue (and possibly all Pentax cameras that have a relatively lightweight body with the 1/6000s shutter).

See https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/91291-pentax-k-x...r-problem.html

That thread links to Pentax K-x SR problem: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review where a user had his shutter replaced under warranty but still didn't fix the problem... until he started using a flash mounted on his camera, turned off (it wasn't even a Pentax flash). Then the blur just disappeared (.

I'd be curious to see if you (or anyone else with the K-S1 blur problem) still experience the same results with a flash on...
Pentax k7 has the same problem at 1/125 s. Adding a battery grip there is an incredible improvement.
05-11-2016, 06:58 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by giuseppesavo Quote
Pentax k7 has the same problem at 1/125 s. Adding a battery grip there is an incredible improvement.
Yes I've read about the K-7 being possibly the worst offender regarding this. falconeye is the one who did some testing comparisons a few years ago, finding out that the K20D had no shutter vibrations to be concerned about, the K-7 was pretty bad, and the K-5 was in between (had some, but overall still acceptable for most uses). There was a pentaxforums thread here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/115-pentax-k-5/124523-lumolabs-shutter-in...-5-camera.html
05-11-2016, 11:17 AM   #28
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Had this issue for the first time today on the K-S1 with 16-85 lens, images taken where the camera picked 1/100 to 1/125 were blurry. I left the camera on auto iso 100-400 and the camera seemed to favour iso 200 at f5.6 giving me the 1/125 shutter speed, when i deliberately picked iso 400 at f8 I got 1/320 and no problem and again no problem with shutter speeds at 1/60. I know now to try and avoid the above shutter speed range.

Edit: ..............Just a thought but today I used the camera as body and lens only, previously following advice on here I had the QR plate firmly screwed on. I wonder if that could make that much of
a difference.

Last edited by Barso; 05-11-2016 at 01:07 PM. Reason: update more info
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