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12-26-2017, 10:53 AM   #1
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K-S2 perpetual over-exposure?

I'm not sure if it's only my camera or just a quirk of this camera in general. I find that I have a constant -1EV exposure compensation in ALL conditions, from daylight, to night, to snow, it doesn't matter. -1EV seems to be spot on when using evaluative metering. If going with what the camera wants, shots not only always have blown highlights, but are generally overexposed, washed out, and contrast-less. Am I the only one with this issue?

12-26-2017, 11:19 AM - 1 Like   #2
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Both my K-S1 and my K-1 I have on -EV by default, too. It seems to be a common digital thing for the sensor to handle underexposure better than the default.
12-26-2017, 12:10 PM   #3
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I run about -1/2 ev thru out. It helps with ETTR.....LOL
12-26-2017, 02:14 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by AyeYo Quote
I find that I have a constant -1EV exposure compensation in ALL conditions, from daylight, to night, to snow, it doesn't matter. -1EV seems to be spot on when using evaluative metering. If going with what the camera wants, shots not only always have blown highlights, but are generally overexposed, washed out, and contrast-less. Am I the only one with this issue?
No, with my K-S2, it's the same.

The sensor holds the details well in the shadows,
so if you don't want to blow the highlights,
-1 EV comp. is definitely the way to go.

12-26-2017, 02:37 PM   #5
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Do you want to show some examples? On my K-r and K-01 the metering is pretty nice and I rarely have to adjust it. Would expect newer cameras to be even better.
Though, exposure can be a little subjective. Sometimes you want it dark, sometimes you need light to draw out detail
12-26-2017, 02:48 PM - 1 Like   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
On my K-r and K-01 the metering is pretty nice and I rarely have to adjust it.
Zero compensation on my K-x and K-01 is about the same as -1 on my K-S2.
12-26-2017, 03:58 PM - 1 Like   #7
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My K-S2 doesn't meter as well as my K-3 (not surprisingly, given the more sophisticated system in the flagship model) but most of the time it does pretty well - better than the K-30, for example. If all your images are over-exposed at 0EV, seems to me something is wrong. I'd be inclined to try different settings: for example, try spot or centre-weighted metering, try coupling/uncoupling metering and the AF point, try different highlight and shadow correction settings (highlight correction affects both RAW and jpgs, shadow correction affects only jpgs). Maybe even start by using green mode (that is, the camera default settings). If you are judging by out-of-the-camera jpgs, try using RAW only.
12-27-2017, 07:49 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Des Quote
My K-S2 doesn't meter as well as my K-3 (not surprisingly, given the more sophisticated system in the flagship model) but most of the time it does pretty well - better than the K-30, for example. If all your images are over-exposed at 0EV, seems to me something is wrong. I'd be inclined to try different settings: for example, try spot or centre-weighted metering, try coupling/uncoupling metering and the AF point, try different highlight and shadow correction settings (highlight correction affects both RAW and jpgs, shadow correction affects only jpgs). Maybe even start by using green mode (that is, the camera default settings). If you are judging by out-of-the-camera jpgs, try using RAW only.

I actually tried highlight correction the other day. I heard it basically under-exposes by one stop, so I figured it'd be a perfect way to not have to always manually set negative EV comp. It did absolutely nothing that I could see on RAW files. Exposure at 0EV looked exactly the same as 0EV without it on.

Unfortunately I don't have any examples, because I don't typically save washed out garbage pictures, but I could try to take some going forward. I just found it odd that this occurs under all conditions. Even a bright snow scene, which you would expect the camera to under-expose, ends up washed out at 0EV.

The same goes with full auto settings. If I use the green button on a fully manual lens, I can expect an even more over-exposed picture. If I'm metering a manual lens, I typically take whatever the camera gives me down two stops and get a properly exposed picture.

Metering mode doesn't really seem to matter much. The other metering modes behave as you'd expect - point them at something dark and you get a blown out picture, point them at something bright and you get a dark picture.


Obviously this isn't a critical flaw because it's easily fixable by simply taking a test shot in the general lighting conditions and then setting -1 1/3 to -2/3 EV comp and it's good to go. I'd just like to know why this thing seems to be biased basically a full stop towards over-exposure.

12-27-2017, 08:18 AM - 1 Like   #9
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I kept my K-S2 on -1 EV, and do the same now with my KP.
On the KP I have the top dial set to adjust EV in case I need to change it on the fly.
12-27-2017, 01:19 PM   #10
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The Lighting of environment is the factor of setting EV to minus or plus or zero.
See histogram if the chosen setting is exposed or underexposed to select which is better.
Sometimes our eyes differ from other eyes, so what is best for you is to be followed.
12-27-2017, 02:49 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by AyeYo Quote
I actually tried highlight correction the other day. I heard it basically under-exposes by one stop, so I figured it'd be a perfect way to not have to always manually set negative EV comp. It did absolutely nothing that I could see on RAW files. Exposure at 0EV looked exactly the same as 0EV without it on.

Unfortunately I don't have any examples, because I don't typically save washed out garbage pictures, but I could try to take some going forward. I just found it odd that this occurs under all conditions. Even a bright snow scene, which you would expect the camera to under-expose, ends up washed out at 0EV.

The same goes with full auto settings. If I use the green button on a fully manual lens, I can expect an even more over-exposed picture. If I'm metering a manual lens, I typically take whatever the camera gives me down two stops and get a properly exposed picture.

Metering mode doesn't really seem to matter much. The other metering modes behave as you'd expect - point them at something dark and you get a blown out picture, point them at something bright and you get a dark picture.

Obviously this isn't a critical flaw because it's easily fixable by simply taking a test shot in the general lighting conditions and then setting -1 1/3 to -2/3 EV comp and it's good to go. I'd just like to know why this thing seems to be biased basically a full stop towards over-exposure.
Highlight correction is supposed to expand the dynamic range and mask the over-exposed areas, rather than simply reducing overall exposure by one stop. It generally seems to push the ISO from 100 to 200. Sounds like it's not solving your issue anyway.

Seems you've tried everything I could think of. If the camera is still under warranty, it would be worth sending it for service. If not, service is probably too expensive.

The only other practical suggestions I could make would be:
1. if you haven't already done so, tell the camera to remember EV compensation settings when the camera is turned off (Record menu 4) and leave the EV compensation at your preferred adjustment; and
2. use exposure bracketing frequently.

I wondered about routinely using a polarizing filter (will reduce exposure by about 1.5 stops) or a one-stop ND filter - but if the camera is simply overexposing it would over-compensate for the filter anyway!
12-27-2017, 05:55 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Des Quote
Highlight correction is supposed to expand the dynamic range and mask the over-exposed areas, rather than simply reducing overall exposure by one stop. It generally seems to push the ISO from 100 to 200. Sounds like it's not solving your issue anyway.

Seems you've tried everything I could think of. If the camera is still under warranty, it would be worth sending it for service. If not, service is probably too expensive.

The only other practical suggestions I could make would be:
1. if you haven't already done so, tell the camera to remember EV compensation settings when the camera is turned off (Record menu 4) and leave the EV compensation at your preferred adjustment; and
2. use exposure bracketing frequently.

I wondered about routinely using a polarizing filter (will reduce exposure by about 1.5 stops) or a one-stop ND filter - but if the camera is simply overexposing it would over-compensate for the filter anyway!
I really don't think there is anything particularly wrong with the OP's camera.

Compared to film, digital sensors are way too easy to blow out highlights, and with the large dynamic range of the sensors, it makes much more sense to 'underexpose' by default, and then push up the shadows in post.
12-28-2017, 07:28 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
I really don't think there is anything particularly wrong with the OP's camera.

Compared to film, digital sensors are way too easy to blow out highlights, and with the large dynamic range of the sensors, it makes much more sense to 'underexpose' by default, and then push up the shadows in post.
That's my thoughts as well. I just find it odd that the camera's exposure logic wasn't coded with that in mind. It seems to want to preserve shadows at the expense of highlights - yet when editing it's very obvious that you'd really have to go out of your way when shooting to clip shadows, but clipping highlights is nearly a given.
12-28-2017, 09:02 AM - 1 Like   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
I really don't think there is anything particularly wrong with the OP's camera.

Compared to film, digital sensors are way too easy to blow out highlights, and with the large dynamic range of the sensors, it makes much more sense to 'underexpose' by default, and then push up the shadows in post.
My K-S1 appears to underexpose by about a stop. Quite useful really, as you say.
01-01-2018, 07:22 AM - 2 Likes   #15
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KS2 overexposure

I have the same problem unless I use full manual.
I use a separate Gossen Luna Pro meter and camera on full manual and I always underexpose by 1 stop at least.
I read that the histogram should always lean to the right (Overexposure), when shooting for B&W but I haven't found that to be true.
I haven't done any lens tests with this camera yet but I've just obtained a 3- piece set of SMC Super Multicoated Takumar lenses that I can't wait to test.
it's the 28mm, 135 and 50 1.4
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