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04-11-2018, 10:48 PM   #1
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Out of Focus shots KS-1

Hi

I'm continually getting out of focus (non-sharp) shots. It's sharp through the viewfinder and I've tried various lenses including the kit lens, a Sigma 18-50 f2.8 & a few heritage (manual focus) lenses. Tried with & without shake reduction.

Yep! I bought it second hand to replace the K10D.

Any ideas?

04-11-2018, 10:55 PM   #2
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post some of your photos here to disect

Its quiet possible that its a film camera lens I have one that is similar. if itsok through the viewfinder via mirrors etc the distance to the sensor could be different. Too much light will also cause bluriness. you would need a camera mechanic have a look at it Kennedy's are really good people with camera repairs.

Last edited by Kombivan; 04-11-2018 at 11:00 PM.
04-11-2018, 11:25 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by jibbonpoint Quote
Hi

I'm continually getting out of focus (non-sharp) shots. It's sharp through the viewfinder and I've tried various lenses including the kit lens, a Sigma 18-50 f2.8 & a few heritage (manual focus) lenses. Tried with & without shake reduction.

Yep! I bought it second hand to replace the K10D.

Any ideas?
Yup, definitely post some samples and we'll check them out.

Also, try comparing your results from live view with your photos through the viewfinder.

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04-12-2018, 08:23 AM   #4
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You didn't mention if you tried manual focus or AF, and you didn't say if you made any focus microadjustment to the camera/lens combination.

If you are focusing manually, the problem is probably the diopter being out of place (if you say the image is sharp in the viewfinder). If you are doing autofocus, then the camera/lens probably just needs microadjustment.

04-12-2018, 08:54 AM   #5
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Blow off the AF sensor in the mirror box?
04-12-2018, 11:58 AM   #6
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Hi - Thanks for the suggestions. Here's a 'photo. Maybe I'm being fussy.

04-13-2018, 09:57 AM   #7
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Need your exif info

Also You have the sun in front of you which means you need to overexpose the whole photo to get the correct exposure on the face. This means in this photo your letting in excess light and excess light is what reduces depth of field and can cause bluriness. I see some sharp areas in the fore ground try another shot with the sun behind you or with no sun and include the exif so yout setting information is available to determing things like focal length and F stop and shutter speed to be able to interperate depth of field and for testing nominathe the point you focused on for the shot.

---------- Post added 04-14-18 at 03:10 AM ----------

This photo also will never be sharp because of the glare on every item due to backlighting.

---------- Post added 04-14-18 at 03:29 AM ----------

asside from that depth of field is good focus is good, you shouldn't expect and detail in the shaded areas. try a more convential shot.

---------- Post added 04-14-18 at 03:36 AM ----------

Also try a higher quality image in your menu settings like 4 star and max size for an image like this.


Last edited by Kombivan; 04-13-2018 at 10:10 AM.
04-13-2018, 11:52 AM   #8
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Some comments...

. This picture is as good as you will get from this scene and lens with the settings you had, I think. I think the camera actually did a great job considering the subject is so small in the frame, the other objects are so big, and there is sunlight coming directly into the lens.

. Since you took this picture at 55mm, you could easily have blocked the sun rays with your left hand

. The 18-55mm kit lens is just soft at 55mm and f/5.6, which is how you took this picture. It should be used at f/8 at that focal length. Still, your lens did a lot better than mine did when I used to have one! But still, the softness and the light "glow" you see are aberrations from using the lens wide open. These should disappear by f/8.

. The composition with the subject so far a way in the frame, plus the tilted horizon (sorry to mention it, but it's a pet peeve of mine...) make it seem like a snapshot rather than a photograph. In a situation like this I would probably have used a bit of fill flash from an external flash because the subject's in the shadow of the sun, as mentioned. And so are the trees and anything else you wanted to portrait.

. ...or I would have shot this in RAW and exposed to save the highlights and then lift up everything else in post. HDR might have helped as well if you want to stay with .JPEG (the HDR with the K-S1 works surprisingly well I think, it's miles away from the HDR in my old K-r...) But you probably didn't bring a tripod for that.

. Do set your camera on a higher quality JPEG if you're going to be analyzing the sharpness

. For a scene like this (portraits in nature) I usually set my camera in the Portrait mode, then change the parameters to +1 on Contrast, +1 on Saturation and +1 on sharpness with the Fine Sharpening selected. With the 18-55 I would probably set sharpness to +2...

. Finally, that looks like a lovely garden and a fun day was enjoyed!
04-13-2018, 04:42 PM   #9
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Well, thank you all for the input; particularly yours, ChristanRock for that advice & the knowledge that it's actually me, not the equipment. Yep, it does look like a snapshot; I need not to be so lazy.

I usually take shots in .JPG & .PEF, deleting .PEF if I can't do anymore with it. I might need to spend a weekend going back to basics with the Takumar 50mm f1:1.4 & the 28mm 2.8. Then get a hood for the kit lens and give the Sigma 18-50/ 2.8 another go.

Thanks again.
04-13-2018, 08:35 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by jibbonpoint Quote
Well, thank you all for the input; particularly yours, ChristanRock for that advice & the knowledge that it's actually me, not the equipment. Yep, it does look like a snapshot; I need not to be so lazy.

I usually take shots in .JPG & .PEF, deleting .PEF if I can't do anymore with it. I might need to spend a weekend going back to basics with the Takumar 50mm f1:1.4 & the 28mm 2.8. Then get a hood for the kit lens and give the Sigma 18-50/ 2.8 another go.

Thanks again.
The best thing you can do is use a tripod, Jibbonpoint.

The second best thing is good technique and a high shutter speed - sacrifice ISO if you must. Outdoors, ISO 200 or 400 should be no problem.
04-14-2018, 06:31 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
The best thing you can do is use a tripod, Jibbonpoint.
No threaded hole on the shutter button these days, unfortunately.With a tripod, does one turn off SR or doesn't it matter?
04-14-2018, 02:28 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clothears Quote
a tripod, does one turn off SR or doesn't it matter?
Off.

2s delay turns it off for you, BTW.



04-15-2018, 10:26 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Off.

2s delay turns it off for you, BTW.
I must obviously get a tripod. Hmm, I should get it soon, we're visiting Monet's Garden in a month or so. Or is it Manet's Garden, I can never remember.
04-15-2018, 12:14 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clothears Quote
I must obviously get a tripod.
Yeah, Monet/Manet deserve it.

The single best thing that can be done to get sharp shots, IMHO.



04-16-2018, 09:19 AM   #15
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I'll chime in and say that I think a tripod wouldn't have helped much at 55mm f/5.6 1/200s because you could go to f8 and still get 1/100s which would be more than adequate for the scene - with SR on.

I need to add something else. In shutter speeds from around 1/60s to 1/125s or so, I get a little bit of shutter shock in my K-S1 - something that with the K10D I don't get (and I see you also have or have had a K10D before the K-S1). You can see more details at this thread: Question to Pentax K-S1 owners

The summary of the thread is: This happens because the K-S1 is small and light. If you put a heavy lens on it, or an external flash, the shutter vibration that causes images to be less sharp at pixel level mostly goes away.
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