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10-27-2020, 12:15 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by c.kampfraath Quote
This manual saved a second-hand K-S1, a rare camera in the Netherlands
Thanks!
Thanks.

I admire the K-S1, it is the one I take for traveling light.
Pentax got something very right there, way better than with the K-01

11-06-2020, 07:30 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Thanks.

I admire the K-S1, it is the one I take for traveling light.
Pentax got something very right there, way better than with the K-01
I agree, I always thought that as well. And next to my film P30T camera it actually looks a bit smaller (though it is heavier).
Plus the sensor, I think, is fantastic.

I do have to warn everyone who works on one though, having just replaced the solenoid (and unfortunately I put one in that does not work). The front and back panels are held together by some thin plastic extensions, and I found out the hard way that these break off quite easily. Mine are now broken off and while the panels still snap together and the camera is fully functional (apart from the solenoid), there's a hairline gap now and so dust will probably creep in.
Dust is an issue with this camera anyway. I'm not sure how, but for a while now, I have had a LOT of dust inside the rear LCD display. It is probably held in place by static, but when the camera is off, you can see the inside of the LCD just completely covered in dust. Something very odd for sure.
I think I'll just use the little K-S1 as a manual lenses-only camera from now on, until it dies...
11-09-2020, 05:19 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
I do have to warn everyone who works on one though, having just replaced the solenoid (and unfortunately I put one in that does not work).
I understand that you are frustrated, but it would be usefull for those who attempt the DIY repair to know the whole story:

You purchased a damaged Pentax K-S2 which was repaired and badly treated several times:

1. First repair was by PC35-Photolab in California: Very bad filing/sanding job! The camera failed again.

2. The owner chose to repair it himself but unsoldered the green solenoid with a butan-gas soldering iron.... terrible idea because behind the diphragma-control-unit with the solenoid is a complex and very sensitive mechanism, the heat from the flame is inviting trouble!
(He used my K-S2-tutorial but sadly ignored my very clear instructions about which soldering-iron to use)

3. He then installed the good Japan-Solenoid back into his K-S2 and soldered the wires again using a butan-gas soldering iron, trouble double!

The result was too bad: The K-S2 didn't work anymore after this critical repair.

4. Then you purchased this K-S2 to find out if you could maybe repair it or use it differently!

5. You asked me how to find out if the solenoid would still work!
I gave you clear instructions but you were not able to follow those and took the risk to install this badly treated solenoid anyway without check.

So one could say that "neither the cooking utensils nor the ingredients" were quite up to it to warrant a well prepared meal, wouldn't you agree?

As I said, I understand your frustration but these utenisils and ingredients should be part of the story.

Now to your repair of the K-S1:
QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
The front and back panels are held together by some thin plastic extensions, and I found out the hard way that these break off quite easily. Mine are now broken off
Because I myself, having repaired quite a few K30's and K50's prior my first repair if a K-S1, had some difficulities as well, I made a clear point about those extensions:
QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
....
9. Gently "pull off" the front part. There is a kind of nose which has to be lifted, here marked with red dots:
This is important, because otherwise the front part will jam and if then one tries to get it off anyway, the danger that these extensions break off is indeed there.

But, having repaired at least 8 x K-S1's by now I can say that if one doesn't forget this step and doesn't force the front to come off nothing will break off.

Your dust-problem is something completly different:

The K-S1 is not WR, i.e. not that well protected against dust as the other bodies.
But dust just there were you found it, i.e. not in the rear LCD but between the protective acrylic glass and the LCD (there is an airgap there):

It's a bad seal on the rear of the acrylic glass!




11-09-2020, 07:47 AM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
I understand that you are frustrated, but it would be usefull for those who attempt the DIY repair to know the whole story:

You purchased a damaged Pentax K-S2 which was repaired and badly treated several times:

1. First repair was by PC35-Photolab in California: Very bad filing/sanding job! The camera failed again.

2. The owner chose to repair it himself but unsoldered the green solenoid with a butan-gas soldering iron.... terrible idea because behind the diphragma-control-unit with the solenoid is a complex and very sensitive mechanism, the heat from the flame is inviting trouble!
(He used my K-S2-tutorial but sadly ignored my very clear instructions about which soldering-iron to use)

3. He then installed the good Japan-Solenoid back into his K-S2 and soldered the wires again using a butan-gas soldering iron, trouble double!

The result was too bad: The K-S2 didn't work anymore after this critical repair.

4. Then you purchased this K-S2 to find out if you could maybe repair it or use it differently!

5. You asked me how to find out if the solenoid would still work!
I gave you clear instructions but you were not able to follow those and took the risk to install this badly treated solenoid anyway without check.

So one could say that "neither the cooking utensils nor the ingredients" were quite up to it to warrant a well prepared meal, wouldn't you agree?

As I said, I understand your frustration but these utenisils and ingredients should be part of the story.

Now to your repair of the K-S1:

Because I myself, having repaired quite a few K30's and K50's prior my first repair if a K-S1, had some difficulities as well, I made a clear point about those extensions:

This is important, because otherwise the front part will jam and if then one tries to get it off anyway, the danger that these extensions break off is indeed there.

But, having repaired at least 8 x K-S1's by now I can say that if one doesn't forget this step and doesn't force the front to come off nothing will break off.

Your dust-problem is something completly different:

The K-S1 is not WR, i.e. not that well protected against dust as the other bodies.
But dust just there were you found it, i.e. not in the rear LCD but between the protective acrylic glass and the LCD (there is an airgap there):

It's a bad seal on the rear of the acrylic glass!




I agree, you have everything right concerning that K-S2 - I did not blame the white solenoid for being broken. It was clearly damaged by the butan-gas soldering iron. But it is now behaving just like a green one that has failed - everything else apart from the aperture block in "A" position for the lenses, is working perfectly! So the bad solenoid isn't causing any trouble.
As you said, you gave me instructions to test the white solenoid and I was unable to do so due to lack of testing equipment. But that did not cause any problems.

Regarding the K-S1 chassis - I did follow all of your instructions and you will be glad to know that the little "nose" that needs to be lifted, is intact and that side of the K-S1 has no issues that I can tell It is the other side that had the plastic joints broken off and the crack at the bottom. Which surprised me since that side came off very easily! The crack happened when I had the chassis put back together and it was just sitting on my hands - the pressure of the two parts together without the plastic joints must have broken it, or it was already cracked inside. My kids have handled this camera and my older one in particular is very rough on any gear, very clumsy. So it could have been banged around and opening up the chassis finished up the deal.
The K-S1 will live on for now as a manual exposure camera. I took it out on Sunday to shoot my boys soccer games with the FA 80-320mm and it still works like a champ - in M mode which makes me a better photographer anyway, I think. It will still see use until it dies, and I'll keep it away from situations where lots of dust or moisture are concerned...

Your instructions and general help have been invaluable and are very much appreciated. Thank you!

11-10-2020, 02:55 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
..... or it was already cracked inside. My kids have handled this camera and my older one in particular is very rough on any gear, very clumsy. So it could have been banged around and opening up the chassis finished up the deal.....
Your instructions and general help have been invaluable and are very much appreciated. Thank you!
Thanks Christian. Of course the plastic composite material of the K-S1 is not that robust as the magnesium bodies of the K5/3/KP etc.
But I felt I needed to bring up the background story because this is the DIY thread. The reader would now know about the background and might be put off.

I remember very well when I disassembled my first K-S1, it took me quite a while to find those well hidden screws. The way the K-S1 is assembled shows the ingenious mind designing such a small K-mount DSLR Pentax.
11-10-2020, 06:43 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Thanks Christian. Of course the plastic composite material of the K-S1 is not that robust as the magnesium bodies of the K5/3/KP etc.
But I felt I needed to bring up the background story because this is the DIY thread. The reader would now know about the background and might be put off.

I remember very well when I disassembled my first K-S1, it took me quite a while to find those well hidden screws. The way the K-S1 is assembled shows the ingenious mind designing such a small K-mount DSLR Pentax.
Agreed. My purpose, basically, is to warn people that the K-S1 chassis is not as strong as it seems - though it works really well when everything is in place. I had my K-S1 + DA 16-45 sprayed with shaving cream some 3 years ago while I was taking pictures of a kids event (it was a shaving cream war and everything was going well but I think it was my wife that sprayed me!). I took the camera and lens to the bathroom and with some wet paper towels it cleaned right off and the camera never ever missed a single beat - despite not being weather resistant! So I understand that this plastic chassis is really, really well put together with no gaps! Except mine now has a gap because I wasn't careful enough... I hope everyone else takes care of theirs because it is such a wonderful little camera.

When I say little, this is what I mean... here it is next to my film P30T camera:



You can kind of see the gap forming under the pentaprism and then towards the upper part of the picture... (click on picture to see a larger version of it.) it's still fully operational - other than the solenoid - and I intend to keep using it. But I wouldn't be able to sell it other than for parts because I don't think the chassis can be fixed - though it won't fall apart in anyone's hands... I might still get a good solenoid and put it in and be able to fully make use of this wonderful sensor! I'm sure it still has a lot of life left in it, it's still under 30K shutter actuations.

Last edited by ChristianRock; 11-10-2020 at 06:51 AM.
11-17-2020, 08:33 AM - 1 Like   #22
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Thank you so much. Another camera saved.
11-25-2020, 10:29 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Solenoid-Replacement Pentax K-S1

Tools required:
- Soldering iron with precision soldering-tip (such as Ersa Multi-Pro 20W, no butan-gas soldering-pen: Too hot!)
- Screwdrivers JIS 000 or PH000 + PH00 (JIS size works for all screws, PH000 for solenoid screw. JIS is preferable!)
- Tweezers or precision pliers
- Headlamp is very useful, makes things easier
- photos of K-S1 with location of screws, you find them HERE


Preparation:
- Print out all those photos, glue them on some cardboard, drill 2mm holes were the screws are located so you can later on stick all those screws into those holes. Makes it easier and safe due to different length of the screws.
- Make sure you took the battery out 24 hours prior undertaking the repair. This is for discharging the flash-condenser, which is well protected within the K-S1, nevertheless you don't want to risk getting a nasty shock! This condenser charges as soon as you open the pop-up-flash with battery inside the switched-on camera! So don't open the flash prior removal of the battery! You need to open it for access of 3 screws!
- For another option how to discharge the flash-condenser read HERE

Sequence of opening the body (Body-cap is mounted on the K-mount for protection of sensor etc.)

1. Remove all screws from the bottom part: 6 x screws direct access, 2 x when the battery-door is opened: Careful: One of these screws holds a small metal plate which partly holds the right plastic side! Take this metal piece off with tweezers! There is another screw: 1 x deep within battery-case left side. The next photo shows this metal plate. Don't lose it!


2. Remove all 3 x screws from the left side (direct access)
3. Removal of screws right side: Open the HDMI/USB rubberdoor. Take off the HDMI/USB-sticker! Now you have access to the 2nd screw holding the plastic-side-piece. Unscrew it and take the plastic-side-piece off. Now you have access to 4 more screws, but you only need to unscrew the 2x front screws!

4. Removal of screws front: Take the rubber on the left side off. Now you have access to 3x screws, remove them.

Photo: Front rubber + HDMI-USB-sticker:



Photo: Hidden screw underneath HDMI-USB-Sticker:



Photo: Right plastic-side is removed: Red dots indicate the front screws which have to be removed:



Photo: Hidden screws underneath front rubber:



5. Take of the eye-piece: Unscrew the 2 x screws behind it.

6. Open the pop-up-flash (remember, no battery inside your camera!). Remove the 3 screws there plus the 2 screws next where the strap is fixed
7. Lift the top part with the flash about 1/2" inch. Don't lift it off completely! This is necessary to take of the front part and to slide it off.
The top part "hooks" into the frontpart!

8. AF/M-Switch on M! This has to be checked later on again!
9. Gently "pull off" the front part. There is a kind of nose which has to be lifted, here marked with red dots:




Now you have access to the solenoid.
Place the camera on some soft tissue as shown here:




Unsolder the solenoid. For this gently pull the wires forward, because they are fixed with some elastic glue to the left!


First unsolder the right purple wire:
Gently hold the wire with the tweezers while you touch the bare end soldered onto the solenoid until it comes off

Next 2 photos have been taken by a kind person not knowing about "DOF" and never had used my KP before... so when I noticed it this K-S1 was reassembled, it was too late. Anyway, these photos show you how easy it is to solder off the wires! Don't be scared!





Same for the left pink wire:



Photo: Solenoid with wires off:


Now you can unscrew the solenoid, the screw and right side of the solenoid is fixed with red thread-locking-lacquer which comes off easily.


You can see clearly were the solenoid is fixed to:
Left the nose and right the hole for the solenoid screw:



The lever for the plunger of the solenoid. It moves the shutter-mechanism:


Now solder a tiny amount of solder onto the bare ends of the pink and violet wire!

Screw the white "made in Japan" solenoid in.

Why this solenoid and no other one nor filing/sanding the faulty China-solenoid you can read about
HERE =Manual for solenoid-replacement Pentax K30/50/500


You might fix the screw and the left hole with some thread-locking-lacquer or nail-varnish:



Solder the wires back onto the solenoid. Make sure the solder holds well (Test by pulling the wires gently with the tweezers!):






Re-Assembling of the body:

- Check that the inner and outer part of the AF/M-Switch are on M:
The inner part is on M when the screw-drive gear in this small hole in the metal K-bajonett is retreated!

Now the part "which demands good patience":

- Gently plug-on the front part again. You can see on the linked photo why this is a bit fiddly: The ON/OFF switch has to fit as well as the AF/M-Switch! This "nose" which I mentioned for the disassembly part: Make sure you don't hurt the flat ribbon wire that sits at this very region this nose slides back onto the main body! Sounds complicated but "when you are there" it is easy to understand and follow. Also be careful: The inner part of the AF-M-switch has a tiny metal ball which stops at those 2 positions AF and M. Don't lose this ball (it actually sits there very tight, only rough treatment will get it lose!).

Remember to llift the top-part with the flash for this 1/2" again! Make sure the front sits well. Take your time, be patient. Don't push or force anything!

- Screw in the 3 screws which were hidden under the rubber. Fix the rubber to its place.

- Screw in the 2 screws in the right (grip) side. Fix the plastic-side-piece on the right side. Fix the small screw which was covered by the HDMI/USB strip!
Fix that one as well back on its place!

- Screw in the 3 screws for the left side and all 5 screws on the top!

- Fix the bottom part with all screws plus the small metal piece

- Insert the battery, an AF Lens and take a test photo with AV, TV or TAV and large or open aperture such as f2,8. All should be fine.
this an excellent tutorial, just one thing i'm not clear about! How do you remove the rubber panel on the front in order to reveal the three screws?

11-25-2020, 10:50 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by daveday18 Quote
this an excellent tutorial, just one thing i'm not clear about! How do you remove the rubber panel on the front in order to reveal the three screws?
Yes, the rubber is glued on and you can peel it back. If you need to re-glue it a contact adhesive like PlioBond will do. Or a decent rubber cement/adhesive.
11-26-2020, 01:38 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by daveday18 Quote
this an excellent tutorial, just one thing i'm not clear about! How do you remove the rubber panel on the front in order to reveal the three screws?
Thanks

You lift one corner of the rubber carefully with a tiny screwdriver or similar and then you can lift it off completly with some pliers.

The rubber is glued on with strips of 3M double side tape.

Usually it will be fine to be used a second time... in 99% of all cases I did the repair this was the case.

If by any chance it won't hold anymore, it will be because one of those strips got bent.

Then either similar tape or a tiny drop of any contact adhesive (which is applied to both parts and needs to dry for a short time)
In Europe almost everybody uses PATTEX
In the UK possibly:
Bloc Impact Instant Contact Adhesive
11-26-2020, 04:04 AM   #26
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Many thanks for a quick reply. I'm just summoning up the courage to start the 'operation'. I've got the tools, and now all the info. (I think), just need the courage to 'jump in'.............
11-27-2020, 01:12 AM   #27
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"Once it is shouldered, it becomes light"
All you need is patience!

Particular when you lifted the top up and then losen the front.
The front sits well on the back part with the LCD, so some plastic tool (a prying tool for example)
or a guitar plectrum is useful. A credit card will do as well.
03-09-2021, 04:33 PM - 3 Likes   #28
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I was able to fix the aperture block in my K-S1 today! With the genuine white solenoid being sold on ebay.

Thank you photogem for all your effort in helping us keep our cameras going Sehr vielen Dank!
03-10-2021, 01:28 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
I was able to fix the aperture block in my K-S1 today!
With the genuine white solenoid being sold on ebay.
Thank you photogem for all your effort in helping us keep our cameras going Sehr vielen Dank!
Thank you and..... You're welcome!


One question:
In June you wrote that you tried to repair your K-S1 but with a faulty solenoid.
What was the problem with this solenoid?
Were did it come from?
03-10-2021, 06:47 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Thank you and..... You're welcome!


One question:
In June you wrote that you tried to repair your K-S1 but with a faulty solenoid.
What was the problem with this solenoid?
Were did it come from?
Ah yes, you are familiar with that solenoid...

Remember Tony's K-S2? He had issues when swapping the solenoid and the camera broke. He gave it to me because I was going to try to see if I could fix it or at least use it for a video project, as video was working (that project, I ended up not doing).

After realizing there was no viable fix, I took the white solenoid that he put into the K-S2 to put in my K-S1. It's the one I talked about in this very page. You even gave me a talk about the fact that I hadn't tested the bad solenoid before using it. But I had no way to test this.

The K-S2 was given away to use for parts.

That is the story of that solenoid. It's in my trash can right now...

Last edited by ChristianRock; 03-10-2021 at 06:56 AM.
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