[photogem]

is it possible to bring the blue solenoid to 30 hom with some electronic component? ty

Yes, by using a resistor but then it won't work anymore. The resistor eats mA's.
But even if it would have 30ohms, it then is as bad then the other Lenovo "fake-solenoids".
Fake because Chinese sellers offer it for Pentax.
It is a waste of time and effort.
If you do something, do it right!


You would even be better of just sanding the original Solenoid in your Pentax.
But this is cheap as well.

[Tork]

Yes, by using a resistor but then it won't work anymore. The resistor eats mA's.
But even if it would have 30ohms, it then is as bad then the other Lenovo "fake-solenoids".
Fake because Chinese sellers offer it for Pentax.
It is a waste of time and effort.
If you do something, do it right!


You would even be better of just sanding the original Solenoid in your Pentax.
But this is cheap as well.

I bought the solenoid in the Netherlands, the color was not specified, I have two cars with the same problem, a k50 and a ks2, thanks for the replies

[photogem]

I bought the solenoid in the Netherlands, the color was not specified, I have two cars with the same problem, a k50 and a ks2, thanks for the replies

Well, they cheated you!

[ChristianRock]

Today I successfully changed my K-S2 solenoid to the white one. I'm sooooooo glad for photogem's manual. I've done this a few times now but every time I still come back to it.

I hope I won't have to do this again. Perhaps I had a bit too much caffeine today so my hands were not as steady as usual, so soldering that tiny wire was a bit of a challenge. Or maybe I'm too used to guitar wires which are quite larger.

It also took me a long time to take the front off. I was so scared of breaking the orange wire at the top, and that thing wasn't coming off on the left side (mic side) no matter what I guess that's what happens to an older camera that has never been opened up. I almost gave up. In the end a pocket knife was used and a few scratches were made but I finally did take it off (no it wasn't screws I forgot to unscrew...)

And it took a few tries for the AF/MF switch to align properly. When it seemed like it was sligned, once the front popped in, it would get out of alignment. So the pocked knife had to come out again... and again. I'm again thankful for photogem's tutorial which helps you with this, but it's still a very iffy piece of plastic that you have to be very careful with otherwise it feels like it can easily break.

So a few scratches to the body later, the K-S2 works perfectly now. AF works, exposure is perfect (no damage to electronics or mirror assembly), manual focus switch works like it should, and aperture ring also still works like it should. I'm glad to have the camera working properly again - it never failed completely but was taking several black pictures to get the solenoid to work again at this point, so I knew I had to put the white one in.

The green one? Bah humbug and to the trash can it goes

[photogem]

When another K-S2 or K-70 comes onto my workbench (K70's made after Jan 2021 never did, including my own!) I will take some extra photos to show how one can open/disassemble the front easier. Basically it is the top which needs to be losened with one of those prying tools (I have now some by ifixit). It is this part of the top were the ON/OFF button is located. As soon as it is lose there it is easier.
And yes, the alignement of the AF-M button is crucial, I had sometimes to do it twice or threetimes. Much easier with the K30/50/500.
So: Well done Christian!

[ChristianRock]

When another K-S2 or K-70 comes onto my workbench (K70's made after Jan 2021 never did, including my own!) I will take some extra photos to show how one can open/disassemble the front easier. Basically it is the top which needs to be losened with one of those prying tools (I have now some by ifixit). It is this part of the top were the ON/OFF button is located. As soon as it is lose there it is easier.
And yes, the alignement of the AF-M button is crucial, I had sometimes to do it twice or threetimes. Much easier with the K30/50/500.
So: Well done Christian!

Thanks, in my case it was the bottom part that wasn't coming off on the AF/MF switch side (and the AF/MF switch was set to MF). That part where the front cover connects to the bottom is super tight on my particular camera. In that other K-S2 that I opened a few times (the one that used to belong to Tony), I don't remember it being like that, it seemed like the front came off just by pulling it out. But on this one, I had to use a screwdriver to get it to come out, even on those times when I had put it back on but sawt hat the MF switch hadn't been right on the spot where it had to be, and i had to open it again (happened about 3-4 times... it was a trial and error thing as a fraction of a mm off, and the switch wasn't moving quite as it should).

[photogem]

Just to make sure, Christian; You mean This Part which was difficult to take of on the right side?

[Itbejames]

Photogem,
Many thanks for posting this guide. I bought a K-S2 off of this site that the seller stated had been "repaired". He didn't know how it was repaired, whether it was the filing method or a new solenoid. In fact it was the filing method. In any event received it about a week ago and immediately had the dreaded aperture control block issue. Fortunately, I had already bought a replacement solenoid from potmano off of eBay and had the part ready to go. This camera is meant to be a backup to my K-70.
The solenoid was a pain to replace, more from the screwdriver issue, I had bought low quality set of PH000 from that center of quality overseas. But all is well now. The K-S2 works great after only 3 hours of laboring over it. My soldering skills were up to the challenge.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/attachments/184-pentax-k-s1-k-s2/617715d1699218369-manual-solenoid-replacement-pentax-k-s2-k-70-img_2879-30769-.jpg
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/attachments/184-pentax-k-s1-k-s2/617716d1699218369-manual-solenoid-replacement-pentax-k-s2-k-70-img_2882-30770-.jpg

[photogem]

Photogem,
Many thanks for posting this guide. I bought a K-S2 off of this site that the seller stated had been "repaired". He didn't know how it was repaired, whether it was the filing method or a new solenoid. In fact it was the filing method. In any event received it about a week ago and immediately had the dreaded aperture control block issue

Thanks for posting about your repair.
It is ... again ... particular interesting because it was a filed solenoid which failed!
As soon as one files the plunger of course it won't be held that strong anymore by the permanent magnet and it works well again.
But then even with very strong modified plungers like THIS ONEit does happen again.
The very reason for this is the structure of the alloy used for the China-solenoids. The material changes its magnetic properties, the holding force becomes stronger again.

Fortunately, I had already bought a replacement solenoid from potmano off of eBay and had the part ready to go. This camera is meant to be a backup to my K-70.
The solenoid was a pain to replace, more from the screwdriver issue, I had bought low quality set of PH000 from that center of quality overseas.

I wrote about the difference between JIS, JCIS and PH screwdrivers HERE Even if the manufacturers claim it to be JCIS (as I know if from the WERA 118922 and those by Moody Tools, they aren't but they are just ISO 8764-1. Nevertheless, ISO 8764-1 screwdrivers do work, but you need the exact size, here for the tiny screw holding the solenoid you need then size 00, while if you use a true JCIS like Vessel, you can use size 0 or 00 and you won't even notice the difference, that perfect is the fit.

[Itbejames]

First image with the new solenoid is below. Well worth the effort.

[photogem]

A few days ago I repaired a Pentax K70.
I took three quick photos to show how "prying-tools" can help while disassembling.
Particular Photo 1 which shows how to "pry open" the top-part from the front and back!

Hope this helps.

[tlong423]

This was an excellent set of instructions, and I'm very grateful to photogem for taking the time to put this together and post it.

I'd ordered a K-S2 from an eBay seller in Japan who'd listed the camera as "Mint" (of course) with absolutely no issues. When it arrived, it had the bad solenoid issue straight away. I'm glad I'd hedged my bets and ordered a replacement Japanese solenoid at the same time. Using these excellent instructions, I was able to pretty swiftly (and confidently!) make the swap and immediately bring the camera to a better-than-new condition.

[Itbejames]

This was an excellent set of instructions, and I'm very grateful to photogem for taking the time to put this together and post it.

I'd ordered a K-S2 from an eBay seller in Japan who'd listed the camera as "Mint" (of course) with absolutely no issues. When it arrived, it had the bad solenoid issue straight away. I'm glad I'd hedged my bets and ordered a replacement Japanese solenoid at the same time. Using these excellent instructions, I was able to pretty swiftly (and confidently!) make the swap and immediately bring the camera to a better-than-new condition.

I ordered my K-s2 from a seller on this site who claimed that it had been repaired. He didn’t know how it was repaired, but it was obvious from my first shot it had the solenoid problem. I only paid $210 which included postage and I had the new Japanese solenoid from potmano on eBay, so I may have $280 in it by now. It works great and I use it as a backup to my K-70. Photogem and his instructions have been a great help to the Pentax community.

[ChristianRock]

Just to make sure, Christian; You mean This Part which was difficult to take of on the right side?

No, it was the front panel itself, that you have to pull out. With my previous K-S2 I could get it with just my hands. With this one, I had to use a prying tool, as you mentioned later. Even then I was super careful not to break anything because I had to use quite a bit of force. Not sure why!

I ordered my K-s2 from a seller on this site who claimed that it had been repaired. He didn’t know how it was repaired, but it was obvious from my first shot it had the solenoid problem. I only paid $210 which included postage and I had the new Japanese solenoid from potmano on eBay, so I may have $280 in it by now. It works great and I use it as a backup to my K-70. Photogem and his instructions have been a great help to the Pentax community.

You should have gotten some form of compensation if you bought it on this site and it was not as advertised. People here that I have dealt with, have always been courteous and honest and I'm sure would have made things right if they were told about the issue. You should have at least have gotten the money for the solenoid.

[Itbejames]

Perhaps I should have asked, but I did want to practice replacing the solenoid since I do have a K70 that may eventually have the same problem. The funny thing is, I actually like the Ks2 so I can take it off to remote sites and not having to worry too much since my total cost is only 20% of what I paid for my K70.