Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
02-07-2022, 10:04 PM   #76
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 3,505
Original Poster

Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here.


Yes, it is the plastic washer of the microphone-socket
If it would be smaller and copper-colored, it would sit at the bottom near the battery-chamber on some early K-S2's.
But this one is plastic and always the same color as your Pentax.

02-08-2022, 03:35 AM   #77
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
Presumably this solenoid is damaged beyond use. (Again, no option to post photo or manage attachments. I'll post the pic when I work out how to do it.) Is there any point in trying to solder to the metal plate on the same side where the pin has just disappeared, the bottom side in the photo?

Last edited by Peter Marsland; 02-08-2022 at 03:07 PM.
02-08-2022, 03:48 AM   #78
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
Photo:
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
DMC-TZ70  Photo 
02-08-2022, 04:48 PM   #79
New Member
ewhac's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: San Francisco peninsula
Posts: 7
QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
I would open it again and check. [ ... ]
Just opened it back up and spent the last hour peering into every corner and looking at every ribbon cable and wire, and damned if I can find anything missing, loose, broken, bent, or out of place. The system appears to respond to all the controls (suggesting that the cables leading to those controls are fine). The display still shows "INT 15" even with all its clothes off.

It'd be nice to know what "INT 15" meant; it could narrow the search.

02-09-2022, 12:03 AM   #80
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 3,505
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by ewhac Quote
Just opened it back up and spent the last hour peering into every corner and looking at every ribbon cable and wire, and damned if I can find anything missing, loose, broken, bent, or out of place. The system appears to respond to all the controls (suggesting that the cables leading to those controls are fine). The display still shows "INT 15" even with all its clothes off.

It'd be nice to know what "INT 15" meant; it could narrow the search.
I never came across such error display messages.

Only a very vague guess: INT won't stand for "International" but more likely for "interuption"

As far as I can remember it happened 3 times that a member in a forum wrote that something went wrong.

- Once it was because the region behind the solenoid was "torched" because a gaz-soldering-iron was used.
The owner later on repaired his K-70 (which is almost identical for that repair) with an adequate soldering iron and all went alright.

- One owner broke plastic parts on his K-S1.

- There was one more where something went wrong 2 years later but the insight is more like "muddy waters"


You can be 100% certain that if your camera was just displaying the typical ABF symptoms there was something that went wrong during repair.

It cannot be otherwise.

Last edited by photogem; 02-09-2022 at 12:21 AM.
02-09-2022, 12:33 AM   #81
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 3,505
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Marsland Quote
Presumably this solenoid is damaged beyond use. (Again, no option to post photo or manage attachments. I'll post the pic when I work out how to do it.) Is there any point in trying to solder to the metal plate on the same side where the pin has just disappeared, the bottom side in the photo?
I can't see details well enough but I guess one top pin broke off.

Although THIS PHOTO shows a SLR* and not a DSLR Japan-Solenoid, you can see the copper-wire of the coil connected to the side-pin!
If you measure the impedance of ca. 30ohms across that pin to the other, then you solder carefully your cable to this pin!
It is possible. Because I solder the old fashioned way I can "drop" the hot melted solder very quick and precise onto a small spot.


*not recommended as explained in detail HERE

Addition:

What kind of soldering-iron did you use?
If the plastic melted from this correct DSLR solenoid as you described it via PM there must have been too much heat.
Either wrong soldering-iron (worst = butan)

or having touched the pin for much to long time!

Last edited by photogem; 02-09-2022 at 01:11 AM.
02-09-2022, 01:46 AM   #82
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
I think I kept my soldering iron on the tip of the solenoid for too long. It is a basic 25w iron with pencil tip. Since damaging this solenoid I have been practising my technique. Since it is very difficult to hold the wire in place, hold the iron to the component, and hold the solder to the tip of the iron, the secret seems to be to ensure the tip of the iron has solder on it, hold the wire in place with tweezers, then just touch the tinned iron to the components for only a second or so. I'm trying to improve my skills. I will either buy another solenoid and have another go, or re-install the faulty solenoid and just use manual lenses. My message to those planning to have a go at this project is: unless you are very confident, practise your soldering skills on the finest bits of wire you can find before starting. It is really easy to goof it up.


Last edited by Peter Marsland; 02-09-2022 at 02:00 AM.
02-09-2022, 03:04 AM   #83
New Member
ewhac's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: San Francisco peninsula
Posts: 7
QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Only a very vague guess: INT won't stand for "International" but more likely for "interuption"
...Or "intrusion..." :-)

QuoteQuote:
- Once it was because the region behind the solenoid was "torched" because a gaz-soldering-iron was used.
I used a 35W electric soldering iron with a very fine chisel tip. The iron only touched the terminals on the solenoid, and only for a second.

QuoteQuote:
- One owner broke plastic parts on his K-S1.
I can see no evidence of broken plastic parts anywhere. Gentle tipping/shaking of the camera reveals no new rattles.

QuoteQuote:
You can be 100% certain that if your camera was just displaying the typical ABF symptoms there was something that went wrong during repair.

It cannot be otherwise.
I'm not disputing that. I simply can't figure out what I might have b0rk3d.
02-09-2022, 03:06 AM   #84
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
In your link about soldering you mention using colophonium as a flux. I have flux which I use with copper plumbing pipes. Is a small touch of this on the pin or the wire safe, or do I need to buy some flux designed specifically for electronic components?
02-09-2022, 05:16 AM   #85
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 3,505
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Marsland Quote
In your link about soldering you mention using colophonium as a flux. I have flux which I use with copper plumbing pipes. Is a small touch of this on the pin or the wire safe, or do I need to buy some flux designed specifically for electronic components?
If the flux contains colophonium, then yes, that is fine.
But you also need very fine leaded solder. Solder without flux. Something like this:
Solder Wire and Rosin Paste Flux Kit - 60-40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire (0.6mm, 50g) and Rosin Paste Flux for PCB Electrical Soldering and DIY from Plusivo - - amazon.com?tag=pentaxforums-20&

I recommended to measure the impedance of the damaged solenoid:
This you do with a multimeter:
Digital Multimeter for Measuring Voltage, Resistance, Current, Continuity, Battery and Diode Multi Tester with Premium Probes, Backlight, Case, Stand from Plusivo: amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement?tag=pentaxforums-20&

From one pin to the other. Multimeter set to 200 on the left bottom side (Ω = ohm-sign)
It should then read about 30 (ohms)
02-09-2022, 07:15 AM   #86
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
If the flux contains colophonium, then yes, that is fine.
But you also need very fine leaded solder. Solder without flux. Something like this:
Solder Wire and Rosin Paste Flux Kit - 60-40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire (0.6mm, 50g) and Rosin Paste Flux for PCB Electrical Soldering and DIY from Plusivo - - amazon.com?tag=pentaxforums-20&

I recommended to measure the impedance of the damaged solenoid:
This you do with a multimeter:
Digital Multimeter for Measuring Voltage, Resistance, Current, Continuity, Battery and Diode Multi Tester with Premium Probes, Backlight, Case, Stand from Plusivo: amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement?tag=pentaxforums-20&

From one pin to the other. Multimeter set to 200 on the left bottom side (Ω = ohm-sign)
It should then read about 30 (ohms)

It looks like the solder you recommend has a rosin core. Doesn't that mean it contains flux? I have seen similar in the UK and can get it here, but you say "solder without flux", so I'm confused.

I don't have the skill or equipment to measure impedance, so my choice lies in getting another white solenoid, or re-installing the faulty green one. I need to feel more confident of my soldering, and am wary of spending any more money on what has turned out to be an extremely stressful project, so will probably practise my soldering and put the old one back and use the K70 with manual lenses, if I get it back together again.

---------- Post added 02-09-22 at 08:02 AM ----------

One thing I haven't seen any comment on, but think another member asked, too: if manual focus lenses will work on a DSLR with a faulty solenoid, will they work on a DSLR with NO solenoid, ie with the faulty solenoid removed and not replaced? If so, I'll just put my K70 back together again without a solenoid, and use it with my "A" lenses.
02-09-2022, 08:40 AM   #87
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 3,505
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Marsland Quote
It looks like the solder you recommend has a rosin core. Doesn't that mean it contains flux? I have seen similar in the UK and can get it here, but you say "solder without flux", so I'm confused.
Yes, you are correct!
Lets keep it simple, if you can't find thin leaded solder without flux, then just use ordinary thin solder with flux. The flux will burn off and then you just have the solder on your tip.
I have googled and it seems almost impossible to find fluxfree solder with lead in USA.
It isn't allowed anymore.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=solder+wire+without+flux&_sacat=0&LH_Ti...Pb37&_osacat=0

Soldering a solenoid is not going to harm your health but if you'd use it regularely without precautions then it does.

QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Marsland Quote
One thing I haven't seen any comment on, but think another member asked, too: if manual focus lenses will work on a DSLR with a faulty solenoid, will they work on a DSLR with NO solenoid, ie with the faulty solenoid removed and not replaced? If so, I'll just put my K70 back together again without a solenoid, and use it with my "A" lenses.
Not a good idea.
Better to have the faulty solenoid inside.

Last edited by photogem; 02-09-2022 at 08:54 AM.
02-09-2022, 09:43 AM   #88
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
Thanks for the prompt reply and clear advice. I'm going to get some thin tin/lead solder with rosin and some colophonium flux, practise my soldering, then put the faulty green solenoid back in the camera, unless I begin to feel confident and can get a reasonably priced white one.
02-09-2022, 02:35 PM   #89
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 3,505
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Marsland Quote
Thanks for the prompt reply and clear advice. I'm going to get some thin tin/lead solder with rosin and some colophonium flux, practise my soldering, then put the faulty green solenoid back in the camera, unless I begin to feel confident and can get a reasonably priced white one.
If you know any person with who can measure the impedance for you and it the white one measures alright then put that one in.
If one wire is on the side-pin instead of the top-pin and it then works it will be fine.
02-10-2022, 01:18 AM   #90
Junior Member




Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
I'll see what I can do. Thanks.
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
access, af, base, battery, camera, dslr, fall, flash, flux, issue, jis, k-s1, k-s2, k70, lenses, measure, middle, paste, repair, screw, screws, solenoid, wire
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice photogem Pentax K-30 & K-50 204 03-20-2024 01:14 AM
Manual: Solenoid replacement: Pentax K-S1 photogem Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 71 12-11-2023 03:56 PM
Manual: Solenoid replacement: Pentax K-S1 photogem Do-It-Yourself 5 11-12-2022 10:24 PM
Solenoid replacement BugsDogsAndSunsets Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 13 02-04-2021 01:25 PM
Genuine Aperture Solenoid Plunger Part K-30 K-50 K-S1/S2 K-500 jhaji Repairs and Warranty Service 2 04-24-2019 03:40 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:32 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top