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01-17-2016, 10:02 PM   #286
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Camera Strap

First I have to say wow...a lot of great tips and suggestions! I picked up a few good ones. Thank you.

I took a couple of photography classes back in the 1980s. The best tip I can think of is one that the instructor gave us in the very beginning. "Use your Camera's Strap". I don't like to keep it around my neck so what I do is, wrap it around my wrist. If I my camera gets bumped out of my hand, it can't hit the ground. I do this when I take photos, change settings, or review photos. Also it's the first thing I tell people to do when I hand them my camera.

The only other thing I can think of on the same lines is, I usually always have a filter on the front of my lens. Either a Polarizer or UV filter. It is much cheaper to replace a filter then it is to replace a lens if it gets bumped or scratched.

01-17-2016, 10:26 PM - 2 Likes   #287
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If you're on a tight budget, a 50mm prime is perhaps one of the most useful improvements over a kit lens without having to spend a lot. As a prime, the sharpness even of an older A series lens is very noticeably a step up over an 18-55 DA L, close focus is good enough to be able to use in semi-macro, and 50mm is quite a useful focal length for portrait. While not quite ideal for landscapes, due to a 75mm equivalent on APS-C crop factor, there certainly are landscapes that lend themselves to this focal length.
There are lots of options at 50mm. I started with an A 50 F1.7, which was exceptionally cheap, and have achieved some outstanding results in camera club competitions. Later I acquired an FA 50 F1.4 The latter was not exactly a budget lens, but compared to other focal length primes, still one of the most affordable to own, and the step up to a lens with AF was worth it for portraits of my daughter who tends not to sit still very long.
There are plenty of other 50mm primes I could have chosen, and many of them are quite reasonably priced, and they're mostly full frame lenses so you can use them with film cameras as well if that's your thing, or if you've been saving you pennies, with the K-1 when it finally arrives.
01-17-2016, 10:43 PM - 1 Like   #288
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Good advice from a bad idea

Every once in awhile, I go on a familiar hike without a camera. I know that sounds counterintuitive (and goes against a good third of this thread), but it allows me to see everything as it is, rather than what would look good through a lense. Consider it an ocular recalibration. Even though I might miss a few shots, I come back with an even greater appreciation of light and all its subtleties.
01-17-2016, 11:05 PM - 1 Like   #289
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Post Processing and you, an introduction.

If you've heard about people "fixing" photos in Adobe Lightroom and are now curious to try your own hand at it, but find the $100 buy in a bit rich for your taste, try Windows Photos.

Right click any photo on your picture folder using WIndows 8 or 10 and select "open with" then choose "Windows Photos" instead of photo viewer.

Clicking on the photo will bring up a small menu at the bottom of the image, cropping is a great place to start, or you dive in and select "edit."

You'll get basic and advanced options for altering the photo. The basic ones work like presets and just require clicking on different versions of your picture on the right side of your screen. The advanced ones give you a wheel where you can alter values like contrast and color temperature.

If you find something you really like you can save the newly altered image as a separate file from the original or replace the original with your new version. If you don't, you haven't hurt anything, you can always reset to the original version or just click out of the image.

01-17-2016, 11:09 PM - 2 Likes   #290
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We are all so busy, with so many distractions, disruptions and demands, on our time. Whatever your passion may be, be it painting, prose or photography, it is very important to set aside a specific day(or 1/2 day), of the week,to dedicate your time, to do just that. Tell everyone around you that is your creative time and you must be left alone. After a while, others will "get it", that you mean it, and you'll be amazed, at how much you can accomplish. Stick to this discipline, and your art will, most certainly, improve.
01-17-2016, 11:22 PM - 1 Like   #291
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To photograph hugs at the end of a wedding

Use a focal length between 35 and 50mm. If lighting is consistent use manual mode f3.5 (or greater) & shutter speed at least 1/100 second. If lighting fluctuates use aperture priority mode at f 5.6 and ISO that ensures shutter speed greater than 1/100 sec. Work out which side the bride will hug people; she will usually (but not always) hug people with the personís head against the right side of her cheek. Position yourself so that you can see each personís face at about 1 metre (39 inches) behind the bride and just keep walking behind her and taking photographs in continuous shooting mode.
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01-17-2016, 11:28 PM - 1 Like   #292
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QuoteOriginally posted by vjacesslav Quote
CAMERA TOSS TECHNIQUE
So funny! So glad I endured to the end of the video!

Read through the whole thread and not thinking of any unique tips that haven't been mentioned.. So something for beginners that I don't think was mentioned yet (the exposure triangle)... Don't be intimidated by manual mode... Embrace it as the fastest way to understanding exposure. Learn the exposure triangle,and stay in manual until it makes sense and you are comfortable there. When you're shooting in manual mode and have the correct exposure you want based on the exposure triangle, and want to change/tweak one aspect of the shot while keeping the same exposure, then all you need to do is move one of the other two aspects in the opposite direction to the same degree... For example, if you're at 1/100s shutter speed and want to go to a faster shutter because motion isn't frozen, you can quickly bump the shutter dial a couple clicks faster (or however many you want, and I say clicks rather than stops because you may have your camera set to increment in thirds, etc. so it's easier imo to just count dial clicks...) then either turn the Aperture dial the same number of clicks further open, or shift the ISO the same number of clicks higher, or even a combination of the corresponding two elements to equal the same number of clicks you increased shutter speed... It's same plan for whichever of the three elements of the triangle elements you want to adjust in either direction... There are other ways to do the same thing in different modes obviously, but I've always liked manual mode for this method because adjustments can made so easily and precisely without leaving the viewfinder and provides a sense of being in control.
01-18-2016, 12:17 AM   #293
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When taking pictures at an aquarium, use a rubber lens hood and get as close to the glass as possible. Ideally you would be against the glass. That way you don't get reflections off the glass. If the lens is close like that you can use a flash. Sometimes even with the lens close, you may get some reflection from the light from the flash bouncing between the front and back of the 6 inch thick plexiglass. Using an off camera cord will help to get the flash farther away to eliminate the problem. If you can't get close to the glass, don't shoot straight into the glass or you may get yourself in the picture. You do have to keep an eye out for other reflections when shooting indirectly through the glass. A macro is nice for close-up shots of some of the smaller tanks. Hold the off camera flash a little above the camera pointing down a bit to get more natural looking light.

01-18-2016, 12:34 AM - 3 Likes   #294
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Pretend that your DLSR is a film camera and try to get 10 great pictures out of 24. This focuses you think about each shot as you have limited number of them and you will try to make each photo matter.
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Last edited by reedik; 01-18-2016 at 01:00 PM. Reason: more explanation
01-18-2016, 12:39 AM   #295
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https://500px.com/photo/135438843/morning-rocks-2-by-hristo-gergov?ctx_page=...ser_id=3501430
01-18-2016, 01:10 AM   #296
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The 55-300mm Pentax is a very underestimated camera lens, wrongly in my humble opinion. If used in good conditions, it can produce very good pictures. You need only : a good light, some practice, an interesting subject, and… an ounce of luck !
Here is an example :
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01-18-2016, 01:24 AM - 1 Like   #297
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Don't overlook manual lenses. It doesn't matter if you are a beginner or professional, let me explain:
if you are a beginner then it is a cheap option to try out different focal lengths. See for your self how you they behave, how it is to use them, you can find your new favourite photography type. I myself found out how great macro photography is, and it all started with manual 50mm and extension tubes.
If you are advanced photographer then go manual from time to time, many people see manual focusing as a chore but taking a stroll in a park and putting this additional dose of care into each photo is so much more satisfying than just clicking the shutter button.
01-18-2016, 01:49 AM   #298
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Competition

"Avoid flash for glass."
I have found much of interest through attendance at a course in Ecclesiastical Architecture; particularly in taking photographs of stained glass windows. Naturally, the beauty of stained glass relies on transmitted light; hence the slogan.
One day I will get around to opening a folder for my photographs, but for now my entry is attached.
This forum is a great resource; if only I had more time...
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01-18-2016, 01:49 AM - 1 Like   #299
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Best advice for a gearheads like myself: Quit collecting gear and start shooting already.
01-18-2016, 02:02 AM - 3 Likes   #300
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I can't think of anything that hasn't already been said, but this: when taking your photo for a walk, bring a large plastic bag (or even a black garbage bag) with you so that you have something to kneel/lie down on. I have missed a few shots because I had to prioritise dry clothes.
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