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01-16-2016, 05:52 AM - 4 Likes   #91
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When sharpening in PP, use a high pass filter (Filter>Other>High Pass) on a new layer in Photoshop. This gives more control over what is sharpened, particularly if you use a layer mask. Before blending the high pass filter to the main layer with overlay (or linear light blend mode if you want extreme sharpening; or soft light for a more subtle effect) run the high pass filter through a denoise process (e.g. Topaz Denoise). This sharpens the image, but not the noise.

01-16-2016, 06:48 AM - 6 Likes   #92
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Have fun.

That is all.
01-16-2016, 06:50 AM - 3 Likes   #93
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Photography is about recording light. Learn about light; read how to make best use of natural light, research how to give it a helping hand (reflectors, fill flash etc). Flash is a dirty word to a lot of beginner photographers, but the ability to create, control and manipulate light opens up so many doors. The Strobist blog has some good tutorials. Purchasing a cheap off camera flash had a bigger effect on my photography than any camera/lens upgrade!
01-16-2016, 07:03 AM - 3 Likes   #94
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the one and only really important tip...

... is to stop being obsessed with the gear or with feedback from others, just make pictures you like with the camera and gear you have. With the internet's instant feedback and the relatively cheep gear people are not concentrating on the fun and joy of photography.

01-16-2016, 07:16 AM - 1 Like   #95
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Hi, guys.
I like a lot shooting portraits. As a reference i take photographers like Joey L, Peter Hurley, Joe McNally, Sue Brice and David Hobby. It is very hard to start doing it, because you free models like your kids or wife are not always the best one behaving so to help you. To take this picture kind of picture you will need a 60x60cm softbox with grids, one flash and a way to high speed sync (a cable, wireless, pocketwizard etc). I used a DIY cable. Some instructions:
1. The subject needs to be or a quite young one (because of a very clean face) or and old one when you want to emphasize the skin texture.
2. For middle age models i recommend using some Photoshop filters like Imagenomic Portaiture to soften the skin and wrinkles.
3. Camera settings should start from: lowest ISO possible (mine 80), f/2, 1/4000s shutter speed (f/5.6 for 1/640s), 50mm and more, RAW file format, Flash white balance.
4. When shooting more than 1 person, a smaller aperture is needed.
5. Always focus on the closest to the camera eye.
6. Turn the face a little bit to the softbox so to have some catch lights in the eyes.
6. A lot of patience with kids. A lot...

The fantastic thing is you can shoot it in the middle of the day (even better and easier to focus). No real night needed. Success.

Last edited by marinb; 01-16-2016 at 07:17 AM. Reason: no image
01-16-2016, 07:21 AM   #96
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before you press the shutter, double check your settings to make sure everything is in order, check for composition, then press.
01-16-2016, 07:35 AM - 3 Likes   #97
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I have two tips that I consider to be the most useful:

(1) Get the shot regardless of ISO, and deal with the noise later

Shutter speed and aperture are both essential technical and creative elements in capturing a subject or scene in the way you intended. If the shutter is too slow, you can't freeze a subject's movement or control the amount of motion blur, and you may risk camera-shake-induced blur into the bargain. If the aperture is too wide, you may lose the required depth of field to keep certain areas of your image sharp enough, or you might find the lens is operating outside its optimal performance limits (especially wide open). All too often, we photographers reduce our shutter speed or open up the aperture to let in more light, allowing us to keep the ISO low and avoid noise, but this is at the expense of our creative control over the captured image. My tip is to shoot with the optimal shutter speed and aperture relative to your subject and the effect you are trying to achieve, and accept whatever ISO is necessary to support that. Noise reduction facilities in freeware and paid applications (GIMP, Photoshop, Lightroom and Pentax's own Digital Camera Utility) have improved so much over the years; we can now shoot confidently at ISO 6400 or higher and achieve fantastic, low-noise results with just a tiny amount of post-processing (I have captured useable images right up to the K3's limit of ISO 51200). My point is, it is better to get the shot you wanted and have to deal with some noise (which can easily be remedied), than to compromise your creative control over that shot. Either shoot in TAv mode, setting the shutter speed and aperture as required and letting the camera decide on ISO, or shoot in M mode, setting the shutter speed and aperture *first*, then adjusting the ISO to obtain the correct exposure.

(2) Stop pixel-peeping!

We digital photographers have become obsessed with sharpness, detail and noise in our images. We view and edit our images at 100% reproduction on our high resolution computer monitors, and agonise over the slightest imperfections. But this isn't how others view our images, and it's not how we would look at someone else's images either. My tip is to stop pixel-peeping and accept that the equipment we use, and our techniques, have limitations. Many of our captured images will have numerous imperfections, but what's important is how the images look overall when viewed at a realistic size, from a realistic distance. If a photo looks good viewed at full-screen size from a couple of feet away, it really doesn't matter what you can see when viewing it in your image editor at 100%. If an image looks good at a realistic size, viewed from a realistic distance, it's a GOOD image, and it doesn't need another hour of effort in post-processing. Once you start to appreciate your images in this way, you'll get much greater enjoyment from your photography and the equipment you use.

Last edited by BigMackCam; 01-16-2016 at 07:58 AM.
01-16-2016, 07:54 AM - 3 Likes   #98
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Buy books not lenses



Buy storied photographers' books rather than the latest super-sharp lens (I know, I'm a liar, I bought too many lenses so far)
and getting inspiration from their work try to build up your own photographic thinking.

Some of my favourite storied photographers are:

Luigi Ghirri (see attached image)
Robert Frank
Gabriele Basilico

Just like they did it before, shot digital as if it was film:

shot manual, shot with primes, shot less, think a lot bofore shoting, turn off Instant Review, print your works, break rules


Last edited by domusofsail; 01-16-2016 at 08:00 AM.
01-16-2016, 08:22 AM   #99
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I just purchased a Pentax K50 with a kit lens 18-55 and could certainly use this lens. We are going on vacation to New Orleans in March.....think of the awesome photos I could take.
01-16-2016, 08:48 AM - 2 Likes   #100
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Use an equipment checklist before leaving your home or hotel so you'll have what you need in the field.

Use a checklist of procedures — especially if you are a newcomer to photography or are returning after a significant pause.

And if you leave your camera outside of its case while the memory card is removed, consider leaving the memory card compartment door open to remind you to reinsert the card after downloading images. (An alternative: Immediately put a spare card in the camera when you remove the card on which you've most recently captured images.) This is to avoid leaving home (or your hotel) without a card if you neglected to use the checklist mentioned in the first sentence.
01-16-2016, 09:02 AM   #101
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I'm new to the forum and new to Pentax having recently purchased a K3. Anytime I am new to a device, I always spend some quality time with the device and the owners manual. In the case of the K3, I've spent several sessions sitting with the K3 and the manual and reading one section of the manual, then practicing making settings, changing the settings, then resetting. Do this for each setting at least three times or until the setting and process to set or change is locked into your head. Then move on to the next setting. The K3 is a very complex machine and the manual doesn't always explain everything clearly, so it is also useful to have another book in hand (or on the computer) about the same device to get another writers perspective on how to use the camera and why you would use a particular setting. The alternate to the manual can be anything from a specific book on that camera, or a general digital photography how to book. It takes a lot of time, but spending the time is worth it because it saves so much time in the field fumbling around and possibly missing a shot. In time, all the practice makes changing settings automatic so that you don't even think about the mechanics, you just stay in the flow of the creative process. Plus, at least in my case, I enjoy the process of handling and learning the intimate details of a new and high quality device like the K3.
01-16-2016, 09:07 AM   #102
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Get out and shoot. Learn your equipment.
Correct exposure and understanding of what you are doing will give you more satisfaction than any super sharp lens, super cool camera or advices from any forum
01-16-2016, 10:08 AM - 1 Like   #103
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If you want to shoot sunrise/sunset, or don't want to miss the "golden hour", just use one of the online sun position calculators to find out the exact sunrise/sunset time and direction for your shooting location.
Like this one, for example.
BTW, this link shows where I'm going to meet the sunrise tomorrow - come and join me
01-16-2016, 10:23 AM - 4 Likes   #104
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I'm big fan of old manual lenses. It brings many advantages:
1) you become much stronger, cause carrying stuff like this requires perfect condition
2) your "third eye" will open, because if you want to make good shot, must get ready minutes before it happens
3) you can feel safe in any evironment, because lenses such as Russian Tair 300s, can be perfectly used for self-defense, even aginst bears, or Bear Grylls
*you become "perfect first shot" person with this lense, apperture relase sounds like a shot and after that you stay alone in forest
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01-16-2016, 10:26 AM - 4 Likes   #105
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I love today's auto everything cameras; but sometimes old school simplicity has its own charm. I really like getting out with my $25 flea market Spotmatic + 35mm/f3.5 Takumar; really basic, one manual only body, one lens and 24 frames of film - that's all. Maybe a polarizing filter, too. Making every shot count is great way to build skills.

Last edited by erichope; 01-16-2016 at 10:48 AM.
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