READ ME! Pentax Tips from the Community (55-300mm Giveaway)

deckroid · 01-18-2016, 06:21 AM

My tips are as follows:

* Always always always keep a UV 0 filter on your lens. It may cost 50 dollars, but that is much better than replacing a 700 lens due to scratches.

* Lens hoods are your friends.

* Never use SD cards with less than a speed of 4.

* Humming birds will test your willpower and diligence. (And your camera! 1/4000?!?)

* Don't buy inexpensive straps!

* And my favorite.... get out of auto mode!

George

arkav · 01-18-2016, 06:59 AM

Originally posted by r0ckstarr

Regularly check your exposure. Lighting conditions change from tree to tree, or branch to branch. A cloud passing over will still change the amount of light you have in shadows.

Tav mode is my solution to this problem. It's not the only solution, but it allows you to cope with changes in lighting without taking your eye off your subject and missing the "moment".

**Apet-Sure** · 01-18-2016, 07:15 AM - **4 Likes**

Need an accessory, think D-I-Y. This picture shows two flash units adorned with empty cake frosting containers for diffusion. The flash on the right is mounted on a cheap pawn shop microphone stand with 5/8-27 female to 1/4-20 male thread adapter available on ebay. I've also used multiple layers of frosted cellophane tape stuck to pop-up camera flashes. All kinds of stuff can be used for photography applications with a little imagination.

iquest35 · 01-18-2016, 07:27 AM

Originally posted by Adam

The time has come for us to offer the final prize from our Holiday Giveaway! Enter in this thread for a shot at winning a brand new HD Pentax-DA 55-300mm lens

How to enter:

As a reply to this thread, post a photography-related tip or suggestion for fellow users. It can focus on cameras, lenses, technique, accessories, post-processing, or other related topics you think would be helpful.

Limit your submission to no more than 5 sentences and no more than 1 image/link.

Winner selection:

The top 15 replies with the most Likes in this thread will be voted upon by forum members in a separate thread, similar to how we pick our monthly contest winners. Submissions will be accepted through January 31st, and voting will be between February 1st and 8th.

Submissions may be compiled into a reference article to serve as a community resource.

Good luck!

Just a quick tip I've picked up along the way:
Many of us own lenses that were designed for 35mm film cameras. This is a great reason to shoot Pentax because lenses made back in the 1970's will still work on our newer DSLRs. A rule of thumb I use for these "legacy" lenses is the format ratio of about 1.5:1. In other words, an older lens of 100mm will produce an image equivalent to a 150mm on a DSLR. If designed for a DSLR, the lens focal length is as stated on the barrel. This can help one put together a nice selection of lenses without duplicating capability. Moon shot with legacy 35-200mm zoom handheld.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

Last edited by iquest35; 01-18-2016 at 08:29 AM. Reason: Add picture

heydavemyers · 01-18-2016, 07:33 AM - **3 Likes**

Modern digital cameras are wonderful, but let's join together as Pentax users and keep film alive. I'm looking forward to showing my grandkids how to develop and print black and white film in a couple years when they can appreciate it. Then, I will point out to them that the most significant photos ever taken -- flag raising at Iwo Jima, Abe Lincoln, Beatles, etc., etc., -- were taken in this manner. Attached, a photo of my grandfather (center) with some friends taken in 1920. p.s. - want some fun? Take an old photo like this and try to recreate it with relatives of the people in the photo. I found this exact rock, 90 years later, in the park where this was taken.

Glen_S · 01-18-2016, 07:35 AM - **3 Likes**

My two tips:

Pretend you're shooting with film again. Yes it's easy to rapid fire away with digital because it's "free", and I admit I've captured moments doing this that I likely would not have gotten with film. But every now & then I'll pretend I have film in the camera and I find I'm talking a lot more time & care, end results are excellent and I find it's way easier on the "delete' key when going through a session.
Dig out one or two of those old film cameras, load 'em up with some ASA 100 (or whatever your preference) and head out shooting. If you've got a couple of bodies load one up with B&W. Send the film away to a good lab. I've taken pictures with an old Spotmatic with the super takumar 50mm prime lens that I've yet to match with any of my current cameras. Waiting for & getting the envelope back with your images brings back a flood of memories, and the satisfaction of seeing good results several days (or weeks) after the fact is well worth reliving.

That is all.

ps. count how many times you look at the camera back after a shot while your shooting film.

dinamojuan · 01-18-2016, 07:39 AM - **1 Like**

Hello Everyone, I Do wedding and Family photography, It´s so challenging!! but I love it. I use a K20D and manual off camera flash, you know that a K20D have a lot of problems focusing, speed and High ISO quality is bad, but that is not a limitation to make good pictures, even in fast situations, here are my advices.

1, Know your gear, from head to tail, use it with eyes blinded, that´s key, you can't struggle with technical adjustments, when you are in a hurry.
2, Anticipate! eyes wide open, all the time, let your guts guide you!
3, Use battery grip, I can't imagine working without one, makes so confortable and balanced your camera, remember that I use a FA* 28-70 (so heavy after 6 hours)
4, Its all about light! Don't expect to have great results without great light, if there is not a good day light source, learn to use off camera flash and create your own quality light.
5, Good Lenses, good lenses good lenses!

**UncleVanya** · 01-18-2016, 07:41 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by iquest35

Just a quick tip I've picked up along the way:
Many of us own lenses that were designed for 35mm film cameras. This is a great reason to shoot Pentax because lenses made back in the 1970's will still work on our newer DSLRs. A rule of thumb I use for these "legacy" lenses is the format ratio of about 1.5:1. In other words, an older lens of 100mm will produce an image equivalent to a 150mm on a DSLR. If designed for a DSLR, the lens focal length is as stated on the barrel. This can help one put together a nice selection of lenses without duplicating capability.

This is wrong. The focal length doesn't act different depending on the format the lens was made for. The 1.5 crop factor applies to any lens used, not just film era lenses. So a 50-200 DA-L set at 50 gives the same basic angle of view as an M 50 or even an old screwmounr Takumar 50mm. All 50mm lenses give a similar field of view as a 75mm on a 35mm film body.

arkav · 01-18-2016, 07:44 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by skrewloose

I usually end up with 3 copies. 1) computer's hard drive (until I need more space), 2) backup drive, 3) another backup drive (copy of #2 at a less frequent interval)

+1. I also organize my photos in chronologically named folders that are ~4G in size. I burn these onto DVDs and keep copies off site.

djpattiecake · 01-18-2016, 07:48 AM - **3 Likes**

here's my tip:

anyone that owns a pentax should get a helios lens. (unless you hate creamy delicious pictures with awesome bokeh)

When I first started with my pentax I had barely shot anything in manual mode and didn't know much. Getting a manual lens and getting out of auto is a great learning experience and the payoff is beautiful

Thinus · 01-18-2016, 08:10 AM

Late afternoon, around sunset and a slow shutterspeed, gives beautiful
seascapes. Be sure to use a tripod.

K_fifty · 01-18-2016, 08:28 AM - **1 Like**

Hi!
I'm sure many of us are familiar with the technique but here's how I make reasonably hi-res "small planet" photographs using free software only--possible with any camera, but my "flagship" hobbyist eqipment is a K-50 (surprisingly

First, take about 25-30, partially overlapping horizontal shots to create a 360 degree panorama (aperture at f8--hold steady, keep the sun out of the frame--if you can--and try not to deviate from the horizontal too much). When finished, use the Image Composite Editor by Microsoft to stitch the individual photos into a horizontal panorama, then transform the panorama into a "small planet" image with the help of the (also free) GNU Image Manipulation Program (GIMP), choosing the "Filters"; "Distortion"; "Polar Coordinates" option from the drop-down menu. Experiment and enjoy!

f22 · 01-18-2016, 08:29 AM - **1 Like**

Using post product tools to alter which elements of a photo are emphasized can dramatically change the feeling of a photograph. Attached is an example of a scenic tree, which has Spanish Moss dangling from the branches. The original photo started out with the leaves creating a predominantly green cast to the photo, and was not very dramatic. By increasing the highlight control about 15%, bending the tone control, reducing the shadows a small amount, and boosting exposure about 1.5 EV, it brought the Spanish Moss into the forefront of the photo, and really changed the whole feel of the original photograph.

**Erictator** · 01-18-2016, 08:30 AM - **2 Likes**

Tip: When shooting in any wildlife rich area, always be aware of your surroundings. While you are highly focused, stalking that perfect osprey, eagle, or egret shot, something might be stalking YOU!

Eric

enoeske · 01-18-2016, 08:34 AM - **11 Likes**

You can create cool effects that add atmosphere by using a combination of action freezing flash and slow shutter speed blur.

Model: PENTAX K-3
ISO: 1000
Exposure: 1/6 sec
Aperture: 2.8
Focal Length: 17mm

Set the camera Tv mode and try using slow speeds around 1/6 while moving the camera. Side to side, or spinning in a circle like turning a steering wheel work great. Everything will be blurry, except where the flash hits and freezes the action.

01-18-2016, 06:21 AM	#316
deckroid Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Homedale, ID Photos: Albums Posts: 80	Tips My tips are as follows: * Always always always keep a UV 0 filter on your lens. It may cost 50 dollars, but that is much better than replacing a 700 lens due to scratches. * Lens hoods are your friends. * Never use SD cards with less than a speed of 4. * Humming birds will test your willpower and diligence. (And your camera! 1/4000?!?) * Don't buy inexpensive straps! * And my favorite.... get out of auto mode! George

01-18-2016, 07:33 AM - 3 Likes	#320
heydavemyers Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: southeast Pennsylvania Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 29	Shoot film!!! Modern digital cameras are wonderful, but let's join together as Pentax users and keep film alive. I'm looking forward to showing my grandkids how to develop and print black and white film in a couple years when they can appreciate it. Then, I will point out to them that the most significant photos ever taken -- flag raising at Iwo Jima, Abe Lincoln, Beatles, etc., etc., -- were taken in this manner. Attached, a photo of my grandfather (center) with some friends taken in 1920. p.s. - want some fun? Take an old photo like this and try to recreate it with relatives of the people in the photo. I found this exact rock, 90 years later, in the park where this was taken. Attached Images

01-18-2016, 07:35 AM - 3 Likes	#321
Glen_S Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Alberta, Canada Photos: Gallery Posts: 105	My two tips: Pretend you're shooting with film again. Yes it's easy to rapid fire away with digital because it's "free", and I admit I've captured moments doing this that I likely would not have gotten with film. But every now & then I'll pretend I have film in the camera and I find I'm talking a lot more time & care, end results are excellent and I find it's way easier on the "delete' key when going through a session. Dig out one or two of those old film cameras, load 'em up with some ASA 100 (or whatever your preference) and head out shooting. If you've got a couple of bodies load one up with B&W. Send the film away to a good lab. I've taken pictures with an old Spotmatic with the super takumar 50mm prime lens that I've yet to match with any of my current cameras. Waiting for & getting the envelope back with your images brings back a flood of memories, and the satisfaction of seeing good results several days (or weeks) after the fact is well worth reliving. That is all. ps. count how many times you look at the camera back after a shot while your shooting film. Last edited by Glen_S; 01-18-2016 at 07:37 AM. Reason: add ps.

01-18-2016, 08:28 AM - 1 Like	#327
K_fifty New Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 2	Creating "small planet" images for free Hi! I'm sure many of us are familiar with the technique but here's how I make reasonably hi-res "small planet" photographs using free software only--possible with any camera, but my "flagship" hobbyist eqipment is a K-50 (surprisingly First, take about 25-30, partially overlapping horizontal shots to create a 360 degree panorama (aperture at f8--hold steady, keep the sun out of the frame--if you can--and try not to deviate from the horizontal too much). When finished, use the Image Composite Editor by Microsoft to stitch the individual photos into a horizontal panorama, then transform the panorama into a "small planet" image with the help of the (also free) GNU Image Manipulation Program (GIMP), choosing the "Filters"; "Distortion"; "Polar Coordinates" option from the drop-down menu. Experiment and enjoy! Attached Images

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01-18-2016, 06:59 AM	#317
arkav Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 366	Originally posted by r0ckstarr Regularly check your exposure. Lighting conditions change from tree to tree, or branch to branch. A cloud passing over will still change the amount of light you have in shadows. Tav mode is my solution to this problem. It's not the only solution, but it allows you to cope with changes in lighting without taking your eye off your subject and missing the "moment".

01-18-2016, 07:39 AM - 1 Like	#322
dinamojuan Forum Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 59	Hello Everyone, I Do wedding and Family photography, It´s so challenging!! but I love it. I use a K20D and manual off camera flash, you know that a K20D have a lot of problems focusing, speed and High ISO quality is bad, but that is not a limitation to make good pictures, even in fast situations, here are my advices. 1, Know your gear, from head to tail, use it with eyes blinded, that´s key, you can't struggle with technical adjustments, when you are in a hurry. 2, Anticipate! eyes wide open, all the time, let your guts guide you! 3, Use battery grip, I can't imagine working without one, makes so confortable and balanced your camera, remember that I use a FA* 28-70 (so heavy after 6 hours) 4, Its all about light! Don't expect to have great results without great light, if there is not a good day light source, learn to use off camera flash and create your own quality light. 5, Good Lenses, good lenses good lenses!

01-18-2016, 07:41 AM - 1 Like	#323
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,445	Originally posted by iquest35 Just a quick tip I've picked up along the way: Many of us own lenses that were designed for 35mm film cameras. This is a great reason to shoot Pentax because lenses made back in the 1970's will still work on our newer DSLRs. A rule of thumb I use for these "legacy" lenses is the format ratio of about 1.5:1. In other words, an older lens of 100mm will produce an image equivalent to a 150mm on a DSLR. If designed for a DSLR, the lens focal length is as stated on the barrel. This can help one put together a nice selection of lenses without duplicating capability. This is wrong. The focal length doesn't act different depending on the format the lens was made for. The 1.5 crop factor applies to any lens used, not just film era lenses. So a 50-200 DA-L set at 50 gives the same basic angle of view as an M 50 or even an old screwmounr Takumar 50mm. All 50mm lenses give a similar field of view as a 75mm on a 35mm film body.

01-18-2016, 07:44 AM - 1 Like	#324
arkav Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 366	Originally posted by skrewloose I usually end up with 3 copies. 1) computer's hard drive (until I need more space), 2) backup drive, 3) another backup drive (copy of #2 at a less frequent interval) +1. I also organize my photos in chronologically named folders that are ~4G in size. I burn these onto DVDs and keep copies off site.

01-18-2016, 08:10 AM	#326
Thinus Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 104	Late afternoon, around sunset and a slow shutterspeed, gives beautiful seascapes. Be sure to use a tripod.

01-18-2016, 08:30 AM - 2 Likes	#329
Erictator Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,347	Tip: When shooting in any wildlife rich area, always be aware of your surroundings. While you are highly focused, stalking that perfect osprey, eagle, or egret shot, something might be stalking YOU! Eric

01-18-2016, 08:34 AM - 11 Likes	#330
enoeske Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Surprise, Az Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,136	You can create cool effects that add atmosphere by using a combination of action freezing flash and slow shutter speed blur. Model: PENTAX K-3 ISO: 1000 Exposure: 1/6 sec Aperture: 2.8 Focal Length: 17mm Set the camera Tv mode and try using slow speeds around 1/6 while moving the camera. Side to side, or spinning in a circle like turning a steering wheel work great. Everything will be blurry, except where the flash hits and freezes the action.