Damage to Pentax K-3 body

**monochrome** · 04-13-2018, 02:45 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by AggieDad

You might look in a Model Railroader magazine (or online search) for a modeling material that sets hard. This might be easier to shape than Bondo.

On there hand, there is really nothing bad about a war wound. Tells the world that your camera is a veteran.

Most of those compounds are acrylic resin.

Not a Number · 04-13-2018, 02:52 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by stevebrot

* Slang for automotive body filler used for dent repair.

Bondo® is actually a brand name/trade-mark registered to 3M. Like Kleenex® (Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc.) it has become a generic trade-mark from common usage towards similar products

**BigMackCam** · 04-13-2018, 02:53 PM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by Not a Number

Bondo® is actually a brand name registered to 3M. Like Kleenex® (Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc.) it has become a generic trade-mark from common usage towards similar products

However, unlike Bondo, Kleenex would not be a suitable repair option here.

Just sayin'...

nicolpa47 · 04-13-2018, 03:14 PM - **1 Like**

Looking at the damage, it looks to me like one of those things that will make matters worse if a repair is attempted. I would have thought that it would always be a weakness, and the repair, if sanding is involved could result in dirt entering the card slots.

If I were to attempt a repair, I would try Milliput(UK product) which is a resin modelling putty and which is available in black. I have successfully repaired a car door mirror housing with it, and in white it can be used to fill indentations in the enamel on steel baths - so it's quite strong and it adheres well. If I didn't feel comfortable with doing this I would simply leave it alone. As others have said, a "war wound" can be lived with - many moons ago my then new MX suffered a "ding" on the pentaprism housing - it never affected how it worked, and I've simply left it alone.

Colin

Theov39 · 04-13-2018, 08:16 PM

Originally posted by jddwoods

Is the part that was damaged plastic or magnesium alloy? I cannot tell from the picture. If the part that got damaged was alloy it may be hard to glue back on even if you find the missing piece than plastic. I would agree with those who suggested don't try to fix it, especially if the camera still works OK. If you are going out in inclement weather conditions you could always tape over the cracked area with electrical tape for a temporary seal.
EDIT: I looked at my K-3 and it looks like a crack in the magnesium alloy part. To me I would be concerned about making things worse if you try to fix it. I would really be concerned about a fix causing the memory card door not being able to close properly

Thanks for that. I can't really tell what it is but I was assuming plastic. In any case, that is good advice. Fixing might make the problem worse esp as everything is working fine at this stage.

---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 08:18 PM ----------

Originally posted by nicolpa47

Looking at the damage, it looks to me like one of those things that will make matters worse if a repair is attempted. I would have thought that it would always be a weakness, and the repair, if sanding is involved could result in dirt entering the card slots.

If I were to attempt a repair, I would try Milliput(UK product) which is a resin modelling putty and which is available in black. I have successfully repaired a car door mirror housing with it, and in white it can be used to fill indentations in the enamel on steel baths - so it's quite strong and it adheres well. If I didn't feel comfortable with doing this I would simply leave it alone. As others have said, a "war wound" can be lived with - many moons ago my then new MX suffered a "ding" on the pentaprism housing - it never affected how it worked, and I've simply left it alone.

Colin

Good advice Colin.

Wish I could call it a 'war wound'. More like a moment of stupidity!

Ian Stuart Forsyth · 04-14-2018, 09:52 PM - **1 Like**

What I have done in the past is use JB weld
Epoxy Putty Sticks | J-B Weld
Using the putty sticks I fashion a piece roughly the size you need and let it harden.

Then fine tune it by filing down the replacement piece to fit the part it is replacing, then with JB weld glue that piece into place.

uttam.hathi · 09-23-2018, 08:58 AM

eventually what did u do

Theov39 · 09-23-2018, 06:48 PM

Originally posted by uttam.hathi

eventually what did u do

I decided to live with it after reading all the replies. A repair may make it worse and the damage is only cosmetic. It is right on the edge so it does not affect the WR seal over the SD cad compartment and the door still seals properly.

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04-13-2018, 02:45 PM - 1 Like	#16
monochrome Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Working From Home Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 26,276	Originally posted by AggieDad You might look in a Model Railroader magazine (or online search) for a modeling material that sets hard. This might be easier to shape than Bondo. On there hand, there is really nothing bad about a war wound. Tells the world that your camera is a veteran. Most of those compounds are acrylic resin.

04-13-2018, 02:52 PM - 1 Like	#17
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	Originally posted by stevebrot * Slang for automotive body filler used for dent repair. Bondo® is actually a brand name/trade-mark registered to 3M. Like Kleenex® (Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc.) it has become a generic trade-mark from common usage towards similar products

04-13-2018, 02:53 PM - 2 Likes	#18
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,671	Originally posted by Not a Number Bondo® is actually a brand name registered to 3M. Like Kleenex® (Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc.) it has become a generic trade-mark from common usage towards similar products However, unlike Bondo, Kleenex would not be a suitable repair option here. Just sayin'...

04-13-2018, 03:14 PM - 1 Like	#19
nicolpa47 Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,031	Looking at the damage, it looks to me like one of those things that will make matters worse if a repair is attempted. I would have thought that it would always be a weakness, and the repair, if sanding is involved could result in dirt entering the card slots. If I were to attempt a repair, I would try Milliput(UK product) which is a resin modelling putty and which is available in black. I have successfully repaired a car door mirror housing with it, and in white it can be used to fill indentations in the enamel on steel baths - so it's quite strong and it adheres well. If I didn't feel comfortable with doing this I would simply leave it alone. As others have said, a "war wound" can be lived with - many moons ago my then new MX suffered a "ding" on the pentaprism housing - it never affected how it worked, and I've simply left it alone. Colin

04-13-2018, 08:16 PM	#20
Theov39 Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sydney Posts: 594 Original Poster	Originally posted by jddwoods Is the part that was damaged plastic or magnesium alloy? I cannot tell from the picture. If the part that got damaged was alloy it may be hard to glue back on even if you find the missing piece than plastic. I would agree with those who suggested don't try to fix it, especially if the camera still works OK. If you are going out in inclement weather conditions you could always tape over the cracked area with electrical tape for a temporary seal. EDIT: I looked at my K-3 and it looks like a crack in the magnesium alloy part. To me I would be concerned about making things worse if you try to fix it. I would really be concerned about a fix causing the memory card door not being able to close properly Thanks for that. I can't really tell what it is but I was assuming plastic. In any case, that is good advice. Fixing might make the problem worse esp as everything is working fine at this stage. ---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 08:18 PM ---------- Originally posted by nicolpa47 Looking at the damage, it looks to me like one of those things that will make matters worse if a repair is attempted. I would have thought that it would always be a weakness, and the repair, if sanding is involved could result in dirt entering the card slots. If I were to attempt a repair, I would try Milliput(UK product) which is a resin modelling putty and which is available in black. I have successfully repaired a car door mirror housing with it, and in white it can be used to fill indentations in the enamel on steel baths - so it's quite strong and it adheres well. If I didn't feel comfortable with doing this I would simply leave it alone. As others have said, a "war wound" can be lived with - many moons ago my then new MX suffered a "ding" on the pentaprism housing - it never affected how it worked, and I've simply left it alone. Colin Good advice Colin. Wish I could call it a 'war wound'. More like a moment of stupidity!

04-14-2018, 09:52 PM - 1 Like	#21
Ian Stuart Forsyth Pentaxian Join Date: May 2009 Location: Somewhere over the rainbow Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,531	What I have done in the past is use JB weld Epoxy Putty Sticks \| J-B Weld Using the putty sticks I fashion a piece roughly the size you need and let it harden. Then fine tune it by filing down the replacement piece to fit the part it is replacing, then with JB weld glue that piece into place.

09-23-2018, 08:58 AM	#22
uttam.hathi Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Photos: Albums Posts: 621	eventually what did u do

09-23-2018, 06:48 PM	#23
Theov39 Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sydney Posts: 594 Original Poster	Originally posted by uttam.hathi eventually what did u do I decided to live with it after reading all the replies. A repair may make it worse and the damage is only cosmetic. It is right on the edge so it does not affect the WR seal over the SD cad compartment and the door still seals properly.