[Mothballs]

I do lots of small fixes on my own more vintage lenses, and the local shop is, uh, not very good when it comes to cleaning.

I had to pull apart my 50mm 1.7 FA, because, joy of joy, the rear element decided to grow a fuzzy.

For some god awful reason though, unlike my Helios or my MIR or any number of other lenses, this one does not want to give me a streak free finish on the elements. Zeiss pre-treated wipes - Nope. Fresh Mircofiber? No. Fresh lenspen? Nah-uh.

As opposed to forging in full force and hitting my head against a wall, what are other peoples secrets to a clean, clear lens when doing fungus repair? Is there a dark secret to this? A god I must sacrifice a ME-Super to on a fullmoon?

[wrench.doozer]

The streak is in my opinion something not being removed by the solvent in the wipes or by mechanical means. Maybe try methanol if you have it unless this element is coated.

[Fenwoodian]

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Check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has many video tutorials on lens cleaning and fungus removal. I too repair lenses and find this YouTuber's recommended methods to be sound. Good luck.

[Not a Number]

A leather chamois works wonders. Small thin ones for cleaning lenses are getting hard to find though.

[Mothballs]

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Check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has many video tutorials on lens cleaning and fungus removal. I too repair lenses and find this YouTuber's recommended methods to be sound. Good luck.

He's very methodical and calm in his work. Will take note for sure.

[thazooo]

Clean with R.O.R (residual oil remove ). Afterwards clean with your normal routine.

[clickclick]

This will make some people cringe, and I wouldn't do it on a regular basis, but I had a lens element that was behaving as you describe, and in an act of desperation, I used Windex, and it worked. I then followed up with a normal cleaning using all the stuff we're supposed to use on delicate optics. Proceed at your own risk..... But really, it's ammonia and some suds, and if you start looking at the MSDS sheets on these things, almost always the active ingredient is a low level dilution of an alcohol (methanol for example) or ammonia. Here's one on Eclipse as a sample - https://sensorcleaning.com/Eclipse.pdf

best all-around nondestructive cleaner, esp. for grease/oil spots, I've found is plain white vineger, which ordinarily comes diluted to 4-5 percent acidity.

[Mothballs]

best all-around nondestructive cleaner, esp. for grease/oil spots, I've found is plain white vineger, which ordinarily comes diluted to 4-5 percent acidity.

Note: Don't do this. If any of the Vinegar gets left on softer glass it will etch it. You want glass that looks like Milk? This is how you get glass that looks like milk. Vinegar is literally used in arts and crafts ways to etch designs onto glass.

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Check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has many video tutorials on lens cleaning and fungus removal. I too repair lenses and find this YouTuber's recommended methods to be sound. Good luck.

Will repeat. this guy is really helpful. Also the tools he uses are way better then the jank I was using.

[niceshot]

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Check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has many video tutorials on lens cleaning and fungus removal. I too repair lenses and find this YouTuber's recommended methods to be sound. Good luck.

I SECOND THAT ,I watch this guy all the time. Most of the time he starts off with Zippo and finish off with Eclipes using Pec Pads

Note: Don't do this. If any of the Vinegar gets left on softer glass it will etch it. You want glass that looks like Milk? This is how you get glass that looks like milk. Vinegar is literally used in arts and crafts ways to etch designs onto glass.
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good point - I generally follow up with plain water and with VisibleDust liquid.

[rogerstg]

I used Windex, and it worked. . . it's ammonia and some suds

FWIW, ammonia usually removes coatings from optics like eyeglasses, etc. though it will leave it clean.

If anyone needs a good supply of methanol, it's the only ingredient in yellow Heet gasoline antifreeze.

[niceshot]

In the Vivitar repair Manuals they discuss using a combo of 70 % ether and 30% alcohol as a cleaning agent. So much for fear Mongering.

In the Vivitar repair Manuals they discuss using a combo of 70 % ether and 30% alcohol as a cleaning agent. So much for fear Mongering.

I suspect that combination could get you arrested in the U.S. for "constructing an explosive device".

Vivatar's lenses must not have those sensitive coatings that Pentax lenses have. Btw, ammonia is a strong alkali, which, like the acidic vinegar, will emulsify grease and oil, but should not be used as a primary cleaner for the same reason alcohol, benzine, acetone and such shouild not be used.

I suggested vinegar solution only because someone earlier had stated the problems in terms of grease spots or something like that - for ordinary dirt and dust, I wouldn't use anything stronger than water or a commercial product of guaranteed quality. And preferably distilled water (avoiding having mineral spots on the glass after the water dries).

[niceshot]

I suspect that combination could get you arrested in the U.S. for "constructing an explosive device".

Vivatar's lenses must not have those sensitive coatings that Pentax lenses have. Btw, ammonia is a strong alkali, which, like the acidic vinegar, will emulsify grease and oil, but should not be used as a primary cleaner for the same reason alcohol, benzine, acetone and such shouild not be used.

I suggested vinegar solution only because someone earlier had stated the problems in terms of grease spots or something like that - for ordinary dirt and dust, I wouldn't use anything stronger than water or a commercial product of guaranteed quality. And preferably distilled water (avoiding having mineral spots on the glass after the water dries).

Magnesium Fluoride is the coating and it is extremely durable , IE not easy to ruin. Also just use ZIPPO lighter FLUID