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10-15-2020, 05:36 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by AstroDave Quote
GOT IT OUT!
Yay!

Isn't it a gleeful moment when the screw releases?

- Craig

10-15-2020, 05:58 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Viking42 Quote
BTW, I'm intrigued by your monochrome camera conversion. I will take the time soon to read through your link soon. Thanks for posting that!
This reference describes how to replace the IR filter. My goal is to get inside the camera, down to the sensor, and scrape off the Bayer filter that is right on the sensor.

I will definitely post my results. I am appalled that one can not buy a digital B&W camera for less then $6k or so! The sensors are intrinsically broadband. Even the cheapest (under $20) video monitors and backup cameras are all color.

The ultimate intent is to have a B&W camera that responds across all wavelengths (to within the characteristics of the CCD/CMOS itself), so I don't have to worry about what the RGB filtering has done to the wavelength response. I am hoping to characterize the spectrum of various light sources. I have built my own little spectragraph and just need a proper sensor for it. (I'm too cheap to buy the $500+ options!)

---------- Post added 10-15-20 at 05:59 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by c.a.m Quote
Isn't it a gleeful moment when the screw releases?
Yeah, verily!!!!!!!!!!!
10-15-2020, 06:16 PM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by AstroDave Quote
Yeah, verily!!!!!!!!!!!


I had a similar experience a month ago. Needed to change out a diverter valve in a bathtub shower. Easy job, I think. I'll take out the old cartridge, go to my local Lowe's for a replacement, get back and install. An hour max.... Except the old cartridge is seized in the fixture and it ain't moving nowhere. Ok, PB B'laster time (penetrating compound). Tap, tap, tap. No go. Let sit for a while. Still seized.

I'm now getting visions of a complete tear-out of the entire faucet assembly, and my dear wife is asking "how's it going up there?". A bit more pentetrant; let sit for several hours. Try again... tap, tap, tap, rock the wrench back and forth with a bit of persuasion. And then, that magical, glorious moment. Ahhh. Remove, inspect, clean the fixture, apply a bit of silicone to the new cartridge. Install. Test. Ta da.

Didn't I say an hour max?

(sorry for the diversion... I thought this was the DIY plumbing forum).


- Craig
10-15-2020, 06:56 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by c.a.m Quote


I had a similar experience a month ago. Needed to change out a diverter valve in a bathtub shower. Easy job, I think. I'll take out the old cartridge, go to my local Lowe's for a replacement, get back and install. An hour max.... Except the old cartridge is seized in the fixture and it ain't moving nowhere. Ok, PB B'laster time (penetrating compound). Tap, tap, tap. No go. Let sit for a while. Still seized.

I'm now getting visions of a complete tear-out of the entire faucet assembly, and my dear wife is asking "how's it going up there?". A bit more pentetrant; let sit for several hours. Try again... tap, tap, tap, rock the wrench back and forth with a bit of persuasion. And then, that magical, glorious moment. Ahhh. Remove, inspect, clean the fixture, apply a bit of silicone to the new cartridge. Install. Test. Ta da.

Didn't I say an hour max?

(sorry for the diversion... I thought this was the DIY plumbing forum).


- Craig

SO TRUE! After almost 3 decades of home ownership and multiple renovations, I've learned the bitter truth that any estimate of how long a job will take should automatically be tripled. An hour, you say? Ha! More like three . And keep the liquor cabinet well stocked for a post-job (or mid-job) soothing tonic.

10-15-2020, 07:01 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by c.a.m Quote
(sorry for the diversion... I thought this was the DIY plumbing forum).
Could be!

I got to replace the garbage disposal a few weeks ago, when we discovered a near flood underneath the sink. Can't really complain, though - that unit was guaranteed for only 2 years, and made it to 17.

That was another "hour" job which required an extra trip to Home Depot (after I already bought the new disposal unit).

ps I've also done the shower diverter valve (fortunately in the back-up, back-up bathroom - it helps to have 4 bathrooms for only 2 people, so no rush)
10-15-2020, 07:08 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by AstroDave Quote
This reference describes how to replace the IR filter. My goal is to get inside the camera, down to the sensor, and scrape off the Bayer filter that is right on the sensor.

I will definitely post my results. I am appalled that one can not buy a digital B&W camera for less then $6k or so! The sensors are intrinsically broadband. Even the cheapest (under $20) video monitors and backup cameras are all color.

The ultimate intent is to have a B&W camera that responds across all wavelengths (to within the characteristics of the CCD/CMOS itself), so I don't have to worry about what the RGB filtering has done to the wavelength response. I am hoping to characterize the spectrum of various light sources. I have built my own little spectragraph and just need a proper sensor for it. (I'm too cheap to buy the $500+ options!)[COLOR="Silver"]
Yes, please post back with how this worked out. Agreed, $6K for a monochrome camera is ridiculous. That said, I've looked at the output from that Leica (which I believe is what you're referring to), and it's really fantastic. I've been struggling to get good B&W results from my K5ii and K10D that at least approach what I get with film. Not even close so far. So the idea of a conversion really perks up my interest. I will have to do more digging into all this Bayer filter stuff. Very interesting!

All the best with this project.

Svend
10-16-2020, 10:08 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by AstroDave Quote
My goal is to get inside the camera, down to the sensor, and scrape off the Bayer filter that is right on the sensor.
That's a pretty risky proposition. Most of the sensors have a microlens array and the dye layer is often a part of it. So if you remove the cover glass that is part of the package of the sensor, then you'll get access to the microlens+dye matrix.
I'm concerned you'll lose the microlenses and thus decrease the efficiency of the sensor.

Let us know how it goes.
10-16-2020, 12:15 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by ProfessorBuzz Quote
That's a pretty risky proposition. Most of the sensors have a microlens array and the dye layer is often a part of it. So if you remove the cover glass that is part of the package of the sensor, then you'll get access to the microlens+dye matrix.
I'm concerned you'll lose the microlenses and thus decrease the efficiency of the sensor.
Yeah, I realize that, but my prime interest is to use this as a spectrograph camera - for generally bright sources, so reduced sensitivity shouldn't be a problem. I can expose as long as I want.

QuoteOriginally posted by ProfessorBuzz Quote
Let us know how it goes.
I sure will!

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