[rcwelsh62]

Hi,

I had a shutter release cable break off in the jack on my Pentax K1. I was able to remove part of it, but when trying to remove the remainder, the very tip (see photo), that part went into the main camera body. I'd like to open up the camera to remove it. The camera does work, as does the shutter release, but I worry about that small metal tip being inside loose in the body.

Does anybody know if,
1) removing the bottom case will reveal the parts of the camera where the tip might be, and
2), are the screws indicated that only ones I need to remove? Anything I need to be extra careful about, which presumably the bottom contact will be wired to the electronics.

I want to remove the tip as to avoid any potential for electrical short.

Best,

Robert Welsh
SLC, Utah

Attached Images

     

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Last edited by rcwelsh62; 10-20-2020 at 04:51 PM.

[stevebrot]

I'm not even going to ask how the plug got broken in two places...

That said, I would be concerned about two things going forward: 1) Is there internal damage to the wired release port on the camera and, 2) The complicated nature of doing the extraction yourself.

I personally would have a local camera repair do the work. Removing the bottom will almost certainly show how the fitting is mounted to the chassis, but probably will not provide an easy way to gain access to its nether ends. Remember, the fitting is sealed and the tip is probably lodged at the end of the hole.


Steve

[jatrax]

You might want to take a long read through the k-30 repair threads. Here is one: Manual: Solenoid Replacment Pentax K-30/50/500 + Discharge of flash-condenser - PentaxForums.com There are a few others.

It is not at all the same camera but it might give you some idea what to expect. They also give some tips on keeping all the screws organized by using a piece of cardboard with holes punched. Note that the screws look similar but are different.

---------- Post added 10-20-20 at 11:50 AM ----------

And I second Steve's comment. A camera repair shop might be a good idea.

I did do the aperture repair on a K-30 successfully but it was nerve wracking.

[stevebrot]

Here is something that might help, several photos of the transparent K-1 used for tradeshows. Two photos on the linked page show the area around the wired release port.

Transparent PENTAX K-1 | PENTAXever.com


Steve

[Not a Number]

I'm not even going to ask how the plug got broken in two places...

Having broken or destroyed stereo plugs like these the small piece pictured is a essentially a collar/ring. So if the shaft is is around breaks it slips/falls off.

@OP there are screws under the rubber covering to. You may have to peel back the rubber to get at them if the screws need to be removed.

Addendum:

The audio cable for the speakers for my PC once broke in the same manner. I was able to get the broken piece out but don't remember how. This was over ten years ago. I recall perhaps turning the case so the shaft of the jack was perpendicular to the floor and bumping the case against the floor. Or using a paperclip or dental forceps to pull it out.

If you look at the design of these types of jack it is unlikely the broken piece has fallen into the camera. Surface mount jacks are usually enclosed.

[rcwelsh62]

Thanks everybody.

I am using a Vello intervalometer for astrophotography, and use two extension cords to operate well away from my setup, and apparently these extension cables are cheap (I welcome any suggestions on better quality extension cables).

I'm really cautious with inserting and removing, but I went the other night to unplug and it just came in half. I looked about google and people suggested trying the tiniest bit of super glue on the end of a toothpick, which I tried, but that didn't adhere to the remaining tip. This morning, I used a small pick from my tool set to try to grab it, and that is when the small piece in the middle picture above came out, but left the final tip in the jack. I then tried the same to use friction to "grab" it, and that is when there was a release of pressure with the tip apparently pushing through the jack (I'm guessing the jack is open ended) and I could distinctly hear the tip fall into the body.

I did a quick power on test (yes, quite risky), and shutter release (not using the extension cable) works, so I don't think any damage at the moment, mainly just the concern of the small metal bit floating in the body, so I want to remove that. I'm hoping that once I take off the bottom, I can sort of shake it out.

Thanks for the tips and the photos, definitely those will help. In the interim, I came across a video from a repair shop in Bulgaria that shows removing the bottom case of the body:

You Tube

You Tube

I have sent an email to a repair guy down in Las Vegas, as the shop in SLC has questionable reviews, very questionable.

I've rather good confidence, I've repaired laptops, etc, and even repaired my old K1000, but the pointers are definitely welcome!

-Robert

[Not a Number]

I looked about google and people suggested trying the tiniest bit of super glue on the end of a toothpick, which I tried, but that didn't adhere to the remaining tip

A bit of superglue in the remaining part of the plug would probably have done the trick. Doesn't matter at this point

[AstroDave]

I want to remove the tip as to avoid any potential for electrical short.

Take the battery out BEFORE you do anything (don't ask how I learned this, but ... I managed to make a surface-mount component glow red hot, but very briefly, inside a Canon P&S!)

You might try something long and slender (like a toothpick, with the end snipped off a bit) add a (tiny!) drop of e.g. superglue on the end and let it stick and set while pushing it against the offending tip. Check for adequate clearance first, so you don't glue it to the camera!

---------- Post added 10-20-20 at 01:15 PM ----------

I can sort of shake it out.

Take off the lens and shake? Might fall out the front.

[rcwelsh62]

Yup - battery out of course! And yeah, I had tried the super glue on the first bit but the glue didn't adhere, and I didn't want to over do it with glue and then just have a toothpick to also remove,

I'll try the shake bit, I'm worried about it bouncing off the sensor though and doing some damage.

But all, good suggestions.

-----------------

update, I think that the exposure area is separated from the rest of the body, thus there is no physical path for it to fall out, and can't do "mirror-up" without a battery in there.

[AstroDave]

I'll try the shake bit, I'm worried about it bouncing off the sensor though and doing some damage.

I wouldn't actually worry to much about that part. I will be writing (soon, I hope) a brief description of what all is actually in front of your camera "sensor" - there is at least 2, and in some case 3, layers of glass/filter in front of the actual sensor chip surface in your camera.

Yeah - I wondered whether there is actually any path from that jack to the front of the camera.

[JohnMc]

I wouldn't actually worry to much about that part. I will be writing (soon, I hope) a brief description of what all is actually in front of your camera "sensor" - there is at least 2, and in some case 3, layers of glass/filter in front of the actual sensor chip surface in your camera.

Yeah - I wondered whether there is actually any path from that jack to the front of the camera.

Checkout Bozeman Camera repair.

[ramseybuckeye]

If you shine a light down there, can you see the tip, or a gap where it can fall through?

And if and when you remove the bottom plate go easy in case there are hidden screws coming from under a plug or plate.

[rcwelsh62]

Fixed! I took off the bottom plate and and the piece fell right out!

I'm so happy about this!!!

[jatrax]

Congrats!! It's always good to hear when things go right. That little task had so many ways to go wrong I don't want to think about it.

[rcwelsh62]

Yeah, very luck.

Does anybody have rec's for a 2.5mm extension cable, I'm now shopping around again. I need about 10-15 feet.