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11-24-2020, 06:52 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
The standard advice (at least at one time) for salvaging a camera from salt water was to put it asap into fresh water - tap water (beach shower?) if that is all you have; this washes out the salt . Then asap after that put it in distilled water; this washes out the impurities of the tap water. After that, tip and shake as much water out as possible and then leave to dry in a warm place for a very long time before trying to use again.

Distilled water will dry without any residue, and AFAIK cameras do not contain anything that dissolves in it, or is chemically attacked by it other than steel. So the only potential problem is slight rusting of steel parts, and water hang-out in crevices. The only defence against the rust aspect is to minimise the time spent in the water stages, and against the water hang-out is to maximise the drying time.
I did something similar. I pulled it out of the water, pulled the battery, opened all covers and then washed it under fresh water. Didn't work sadly.

11-25-2020, 04:26 AM   #32
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It's pretty hard to recover from even a brief immersion on the briny. A little expertise is required. But better to try something rather than nothing.
11-26-2020, 04:59 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
The standard advice (at least at one time) for salvaging a camera from salt water was to put it asap into fresh water - tap water (beach shower?) if that is all you have; this washes out the salt . Then asap after that put it in distilled water; this washes out the impurities of the tap water. After that, tip and shake as much water out as possible and then leave to dry in a warm place for a very long time before trying to use again.

Distilled water will dry without any residue, and AFAIK cameras do not contain anything that dissolves in it, or is chemically attacked by it other than steel. So the only potential problem is slight rusting of steel parts, and water hang-out in crevices. The only defence against the rust aspect is to minimise the time spent in the water stages, and against the water hang-out is to maximise the drying time.
It's good to know, even if it -is- frightening that you have to do all of that in order to try saving your camera.
12-02-2020, 03:39 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by someasiancameraguy Quote
Warning: This is an unofficial and incomplete disassembly that I did a year or so ago because no one would repair my salt water corroded camera and I figured I might as well try. Use at your own risk.
Thank you very much for sharing this, someasiancameraguy. I didn't know that Nidec COPAL makes shutter for Pentax, all I knew was that COPAL was the manufacturer of Pentax Q series native lenses. Also, I've never seen any picture of aperture control mechanism using stepper motor in Pentax cameras before, though I've read about it elsewhere in PF.
Sorry for the damage your camera suffered from salt water, but I really enjoyed looking at these pictures.

Attached Images
 
12-02-2020, 07:19 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by someasiancameraguy Quote
It's in the trash. After the scrubbing with alcohol failed I figured that it must have been something even deeper perhaps.

Then I let the camera sit in tupperware with rice for almost a year, still didn't work.

Then I opened up the body a second time, this time I dunked the whole body in pure shellac thinner (basically pure alcohol) for a few days. Eventually the paint will crack and the magnesium alloy case will form pits and dissolve. Try imagining for a second what rusted metal looks like, typically with splotches and holes and you'll get the idea of how it turned out. After 3 days I picked it up and then I realized that the casing was so damaged that there was no way the camera was going to be able to be reassembled since some of the screw hole were basically molten away. Even though alcohol mixtures are frequently used to clean PCBs, it is also very very slightly acidic and will eventually chip away at the body.

Edit: I wouldn't feel confident selling any component of the body because it was already damaged by corrosion, and then perhaps further damaged by my disassembly. Hence the stupid amount of risk I took in trying to repair it even further. I've also scoured eBay and other sites hoping that someone will be selling other damaged K-1s for parts, but there were none available, and even if there were, without diagnostic software I would have no idea how many components needed replacing aside from the corroded logic board.
Then I let the camera sit in tupperware with rice for almost a year, still didn't work.

Sorry but the rice thing is a myth. Go to (I think you call it a drug store) and get some proper desiccant. Like silica gel etc.



12-03-2020, 01:44 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by someasiancameraguy Quote
Pentax K-1 Disassembly: incomplete and dangerous
Undoing screws on any camera... is to me like worst case scenario the "scary zone" or at best entering the "twilight zone".
12-14-2020, 04:17 PM - 1 Like   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by someasiancameraguy Quote
Warning: This is an unofficial and incomplete disassembly that I did a year or so ago because no one would repair my salt water corroded camera and I figured I might as well try. Use at your own risk.
My dude! I can provide some guidance here, Iíve regularly brought water damaged cameras back to life. Itís not a guarantee, but more often than not (especially with a magnesium alloy body) there is oxidation crud shorting out various components.

Things youíll need:
A de-mineralizing cleaner. Iím from Canada and we have something called CLR. It will dissolve all the components off a PCB given enough time, but for a short bath itíll get rid of the oxidation.
Soft toothbrush to gently scrub the PCBs.
Fresh water, preferably distilled.
Electronic Safety Wash, and/or 99% isopropyl alcohol (good luck finding that these days).

Disassemble everything. Be very mindful of static, a grounded anti-static work pad and wrist band is a good idea. Another good idea would be to videotape yourself doing so, the K-1 is an engineering disaster inside and it can be hard to remember where everything goes. So many screws.. why so many Ricoh?
Find all areas where water incursion is visible.
Take everything apart. Will involve de-soldering.
Check every PCB and flex cable for corrosion/oxidation crud.
Place in CLR (or equivalent) bath for a few minutes. Wear surgical or rubber gloves if possible as the cleaner is corrosive. Gently scrub corrosion with toothbrush to remove.
Rinse thoroughly under running water, using toothbrush to help clean off the cleaner.
Shake out as much water as you can, then soak for a bit in distilled water (if possible) then in a bath of Safety Wash or Isopropyl. I like to end with a bath of Isopropyl for good measure, as it evaporates fast with no residue. Shake out as much as possible, then let the component dry thoroughly on an anti-static surface. You might use forced air to blow out components where the liquids could have gotten inside or under, such as the bigger chips.

Thereís a real possibility it might now be capable of working again, assuming no components were irreparably damaged, and no flex cables had their contacts corroded away (itís possible to re-create these but requires micro-soldering under a microscope and all kinds of fussing and is probably beyond most folks).

Special consideration should be given to the battery board and mobo. If you have a multimeter with fine tips you can also keep a look out for surface mount components that bear a single letter marking like O, P, F, etc. These are micro fuses, and if they donít form a complete circuit then they are burnt out and need replacement.

And, failing all that a good plan-B is to sell it on eBay to me or someone like me, lol.

Whatever the resolution, itís a bummer that it took a dip. Good luck!
12-15-2020, 01:00 AM   #38
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Too bad, I already disposed of the camera in a later series of attempted repairs.

12-18-2020, 09:27 AM - 1 Like   #39
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All I know is that you are a better man than me. I don't know that I would have cracked it open even if I knew it could be fixed.
12-18-2020, 09:55 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sam_I_am Quote
All I know is that you are a better man than me. I don't know that I would have cracked it open even if I knew it could be fixed.
Thanks dude. But don't give me credit. All I did was break an already broken camera even more.
12-18-2020, 01:18 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by someasiancameraguy Quote
Too bad, I already disposed of the camera in a later series of attempted repairs.
Do you still have the parts kicking around or did you throw them away? I'd love to take whats left off your hands if you still have them. There isn't any good information for people out there so it would be useful to be able to create a full teardown guide without having to resort to using a working camera. I could also use the extra shutter blades, lol, and confirm whether they are the same curtains used in other Nidec-Copal mechanisms such as the Sony A7 cameras. As it so happens neither myself or my parts suppliers are able to source parts from Ricoh.

Anyway, if you do still have the camera's corpse let me know!
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