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10-10-2018, 01:48 PM - 1 Like   #61
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After getting my K-1, the first thing I did was order a Canon A-type (microprism center dot) focusing screen from focusingscreen. I have gotten both A type and S type focusing screens for my previous Pentax cameras from him. After receiving the focusing screen, I spent an evening trying out the included plastic shims until I was happy with the accuracy. Notably, the stock shim felt much thicker than the ones that were on my K-3 and K-5 and I had to reduce the thickness of the shim for Canon's thicker focusing screen.


After seeing this post, I gave it a try by buying a Canon ec-S focusing screen. The only modification needed was to cut off the grab tab. As far as I can tell, everything seems to be fine. The Canon ec-model (1D) screen is close enough in size to Pentax's that no other modifications were needed. Predictably, the shimming I had done for the Canon A type was still valid for the S type as both were ec model screens.


General thoughts:

  • For the crop sensor cameras, using focusingscreen to cut the screens down to size really helps. Not so much for the full frame K-1 if you're using Canon ec screens.
  • Focusingscreen does re-attach the tab in the correct location for the K-1 screens, which makes handling a lot easier/safer.
  • Focusingscreen includes plastic shims, which most likely will be necessary. Easier than trying to fabricate your own.
  • The K-1's shim holder seems much more fiddley. Maybe the larger size (vs crop) meant that the plastic shims were less rigid and more likely to interfere with the focusing screen. Might want to look into sourcing/fabricating metal shims
  • Back when Pentax handled service themselves, the part # for focusing screens shims were known. Even after the shift to third party repair shops, if you knew the part #, you could ask some smaller camera shops to order them directly from Pentax for you. So far haven't had any luck with K-1 shims.


10-11-2018, 10:08 AM   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by sprint113 Quote
Maybe the larger size (vs crop) meant that the plastic shims were less rigid and more likely to interfere with the focusing screen. Might want to look into sourcing/fabricating metal shims
FWIW, I found the plastic shims from focusingscreen to be a pain on the K-3. Placing the shim and getting it to stay in place was most difficult.


Steve
10-13-2018, 11:48 AM - 1 Like   #63
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thank's a lot @6x7II for your DIY!

With my K-3, I used a screen from focusingscreen.com (K3) and searched for one for the K-1 and found your post.

I ordered a Canon Ec-A (like the microprism more) and cut away the nose. The part which needs more time was adjusting the new
shim that it's correct for focusing - with the original shim (~0,58mm thick), there was a huge front-focus.

So I decided to make a CAD-drawing of the original K-1 shim and then printed some of those with my 3d-printer.
The print quality is not that nice because the shim width is very thin but it holds in place and I found the thickness I need (~0,32mm).
I'm very happing because it's working great and right now the focusing with Samyang 135mm F2 is a lot of easier!

If someone want the cad drawing - feel free to ask...maybe someone has got the possibility for lasercutting or something else
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10-13-2018, 11:09 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by Duc-Driver Quote
thank's a lot @6x7II for your DIY!

If someone want the cad drawing - feel free to ask...maybe someone has got the possibility for lasercutting or something else
Perhapt it would save me 10min if you could provide a STEP file. :-)

But I wonder (and I can use 3D-printer for 10kEur) how you can print something dimensionally stable to 0.05mm or better. I fear the idea to sand it down a little because of the dust. Oh and for people without a printer, there are company (like shapeways) that are printing for you. In this case it is possible to print in metal.

However, yesterday I use the new focussing the first time with my old SMC 200mm/2.5 in the zoo. I still recomend this to everyone. It made the fokusing live much easier!

Olaf

10-14-2018, 10:49 AM   #65
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the dimensions are not that neccesary, yes - it should fit and be in place but the same thickness over the full frame is more important.

I send you an email with linkt to a step file
10-14-2018, 03:01 PM   #66
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While reading threads here on third party focusing screens and trying to figure out whether or not they will include all the needed shims for a proper fit, and whether you guys are satisfied or not with your screens, the good boys and girls at focusingscreens.com put up a new link for K-1 mII screens now for sale. While I have no doubt these are the very same screens already available for the K-1 original, the fact that they did this while I was doing the research seems to me a Jungian synchronicity, so I suppose I should buy one.

I recently picked up some fast A* primes and have the K50/1.2 already and have been aggravated at low hit rate despite having just been told by my eye doctor that my eyesight is pretty good for the middle-aged but not yet quite old fart that I am. So I presume I need a focus assist of some kind.

I'm a bit leary of the S-type screens due to the brightness dropoff phenomenon, since I use some of my lenses with TCs that lower max f-stop past f/4, so I suppose split image finders are better? If you're using a FS screen on your K-1, which did you choose, and how did it work out for you? I'm leaning toward a split-image but also find the examples of the microprism assists quite striking. I'd also be interested in hearing something on the Nikon screens since everyone seems to get the Canons.

Last edited by jcdoss; 10-14-2018 at 03:10 PM.
10-14-2018, 07:44 PM   #67
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Split prism goes dark with slower lenses.

11-08-2018, 07:11 PM   #68
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After spending hours crafting ever thinner plastic shims for my new Ec-A screen, I finally understood that I didn't need any shimming at all to achieve perfect focus The combined thickness of the original Pentax screen and its brass shim in my case exactly matched the thickness of the Canon screen. So I was in the luckiest of positions :-) At the same time this means that there may be K-1 bodies out there with original shims so thin that the Canon screen always will be too thick...
11-09-2018, 02:44 AM   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by jcdoss Quote
I recently picked up some fast A* primes and have the K50/1.2 already and have been aggravated at low hit rate despite having just been told by my eye doctor that my eyesight is pretty good for the middle-aged but not yet quite old fart that I am. So I presume I need a focus assist of some kind.
My eyesight (with glasses) is very good. I can read the most bottom line at the usual doctor-test. In the last days I tested the Canon Ec screen with my new DFA 50/1.4. I like to say manual focus with this screen is better or the same than autofocus. The autofocus works very well to the point the camera likes to use. But with manual focus I focus to the point I like for a good picture. Of course this is not important for 2.8 or slower, but for 50/1.4 or 85/1.8 I prefer the manual focus. But before that is was much work to calibrate the screen to my camera!

Olaf
08-04-2021, 09:23 AM - 2 Likes   #70
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I just installed a Canon ec-a screen into my Pentax k-1 yesterday. So far I am very happy with the results, especially when coupled with the Pentax magnifying eye cup (Pentax 0-ME53).

The process I used was similar to that of others in this thread. I removed the stock brass shim from my K-1 and cut off the plastic tab on the bottom of the Canon screen.

To calibrate the focusing screen shim distance, I chose to use clear tape. (Scotch tape brand). This method allowed me to add several layers of tape to get the perfect shim thickness without too much trouble.

After several iterations of trial and error, I found a winning combination: I laid down four layers of the tape onto a clean wooden cutting board and then, using a steel ruler as a guide, cut thin strips using an exacto knife. I've found that the shim material (tape) only needs to be placed across the top and the bottom of the focusing screen to achieve accurate focus. I found this method to be much less fiddly than trying to make a full four-sided shim.

I then cleaned the screen using an alcohol sensor cleaning swab followed by a gentle wipe with a very soft cotton handkerchief and installed it into the camera and found it to be perfectly clean without any residue, fingerprints, or dust.

Thanks to everyone that has come before on this thread! I hope my contribution will help the next forum members as well.
08-13-2021, 07:59 AM   #71
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WOW! Thanks for sharing.
A bit beyond my skill level. I'll just hope that Pentax comes with a split-screen of it's own.
08-13-2021, 06:47 PM   #72
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QuoteOriginally posted by stanwi3 Quote
WOW! Thanks for sharing.
A bit beyond my skill level. I'll just hope that Pentax comes with a split-screen of it's own.
Try focusingscreen.com:
Focusing Screen

Instructions to install:
--Pentax K1/K1II/K3/K5/K7/K10D/K20D/K30/K50/K70/ISTD/K-S1/K-S2/KP Focusing Screen Installation Instruction--

The shimming part is going to be the touchy part. If lucky it will be close - but...
08-28-2021, 10:06 PM   #73
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Try focusingscreen.com:
Focusing Screen

Instructions to install:
--Pentax K1/K1II/K3/K5/K7/K10D/K20D/K30/K50/K70/ISTD/K-S1/K-S2/KP Focusing Screen Installation Instruction--

The shimming part is going to be the touchy part. If lucky it will be close - but...
What I have done in the past for shim adjustment is if you are lucky and your shim is too thin I just keep gluing lens paper to the shim using crazy glue and weight it down until it hardens, cut out the shim check if its thick enough and repeat until you reach the correct thickness.

I also in the past for shims used an acid bath to cut very thin stock of brass or copper used in shimming material. coat what you don't want cut out with wax and drop in your acid bath

Last edited by Ian Stuart Forsyth; 08-28-2021 at 10:16 PM.
12-15-2021, 06:54 PM   #74
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WOW

This is really cool but way above my paygrade on what I can do with my camera body. Impressive.
12-15-2021, 07:44 PM - 1 Like   #75
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I did this process on my K1. I truly didn't find it that difficult at all, once I actually went for it.


Altering the Canon part was super simple. I used a fresh box-knife type razorblade. It's just cutting a plastic tab. Push till it flys off, and don't hurt yourself or your table.

Direct replacement of the screen in the K1 body is not hard at all. I used no tools. You want to be careful not to get dust in there or scratch the screen. If I didn't trust myself with those simple precautions, I would be worried about changing the lens, too.

The shim is the trickiest part, and will need a little testing and maybe a little fabricating. I cheated, because I also got a screen from focusingscreen.com that came with the nicely cut shims, and I wound up using the slightly thinner one that replaces the brass one my camera came with. I also utilized the ones that add thickness to figure out what direction I needed to move, aka adding one made it worse (I was pretty sure), adding two made it way worse, so I took it all out and used the replacement one that 'subtracts one.' Voila. The differences are pretty small between each step (I had actually been happy with the factory shim for a month or so, so close was it to good).
If you don't have the focusingscreen.com shims, you won't have that advantage of being able to test easily. You will have to figure out which direction you need to go and be sure of it, in that 'measure twice cut once' sense. I think the thread above covers some decent ways to add or subtract thickness. If I'd have had to, I would probably have used Scotch tape strips to add, and grind the brass shim on a knife-sharpening stone to subtract.

Anyhow, just chiming in to say it's not all that tough, you only need to do it once, and it's awesome. I have quite a few manual focus lenses, and I don't know what I would do without the split prism. Liveview with magnification is still better accuracy, but that's often true in comparison to the AF as well.


Oh, and I definitely like the split prism best of all. I got the S type from focusingscreen, and also got a microprism Canon one to see if I liked that, but split prism (Ec-A, I think) won the day in the end.

Last edited by wadge22; 12-15-2021 at 07:49 PM.
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