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12-21-2016, 09:44 AM   #31
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That's what FEC is for, isb.deep - like salt and pepper, you adjust to taste.

For my liking, all three are underexposed.



12-21-2016, 09:47 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by beholder3 Quote
edit: I just saw that you set the Nikon to iTTL-BL and not to normal iTTL. Would be interesting to see the difference when the Nikon is set to iTTL as that is the counterpart to PTTL. iTTL is for specifically "Aufhellblitzen" (fill flash), that means dark things in front of bright backgrounds (like here). I would bet this does shift the result to where we see it.

The interesting thing here is that the actual image captured in raw is very close. The difference is only 0,5 EV in 3 out of four channels (reds are 1 EV)
.

This I think we can easily put 0,5 EV under different tastes of default settings made by the manufacturers. See the raw file analysis attached.
The rest is all up to JPG development process in Adobe and cameras. Interesting, isnt it?
I would think, different reactions on the matrix metering side also might be involved.

1)
As a next step in testing I'd suggest doing similar shots when the moose is in front of a more normal background, not 10 cm in front of an all snow white reflective wall. Out it onto a table or grass or whatever is a more diverse background neither fully snow white nor so close behind it (and so close to the flash/camera).

2)
And then redo those two shots (the ones with a diverse colord background) with center weighted metering (not matrix).

3)
Set the FEC in the camera to +2/3 or +1 EV and repeat (this should compensate)
Hello Beholder,
I made the test today faster and
put four jpg's marked by the date from today in the dropbox.

Greetings
Alan
12-21-2016, 10:08 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mr.Alan Quote
Thanks for your information. I'm a little bit confused why the Pentax flash shows such a behavior.
In comparison to nikon the pentax-flash photos are "dark".
I guess it has to do with the way P-ttl information is exchanged between the camera and the flash, quite possibly to mitigate the overexposure, as mentioned previously by Beholder3. Its not a big problem though as you can achieve decent results by adding +1via the exposure compensation dial available on the flash. That usually works for me.

---------- Post added 12-21-16 at 12:10 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
That's what FEC is for, isb.deep - like salt and pepper, you adjust to taste.

For my liking, all three are underexposed.
Agreed, they are... I usually would be compensating anyway when bouncing off the ceiling, since there is a loss of light. But that's besides the point for this discussion
12-21-2016, 10:45 AM   #34
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That scene with the Teddy and kids art board is a classic case of needing plus FC (the Pentax term is 'Flash Compensation') . There are two elements to this to consider and bring into your workflow .... firstly the dominant white tones (walls and the main subject area of the board surface).... and secondly the fact that the 'subject' is quite large in the frame, kind of like a portrait. Both of these factors usually require plus FC.


From my experience with Pentax AF-540FGZs, I'd be looking instinctively to apply +1.3 - +1.7 FC for that scene.

12-21-2016, 11:28 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by mcgregni Quote
That scene with the Teddy and kids art board is a classic case of needing plus FC (the Pentax term is 'Flash Compensation') . There are two elements to this to consider and bring into your workflow .... firstly the dominant white tones (walls and the main subject area of the board surface).... and secondly the fact that the 'subject' is quite large in the frame, kind of like a portrait. Both of these factors usually require plus FC.


From my experience with Pentax AF-540FGZs, I'd be looking instinctively to apply +1.3 - +1.7 FC for that scene.
Agreed and thanks for the tip. I have been through your guide and it is definitely a big help in getting the most out of the Pentax flash system. It even made me try and stick to P-ttl even though I preferred manual for most of my photos requiring flash.
12-21-2016, 11:56 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mr.Alan Quote
Hi Nigel,
I took a shot at 1/80th sec, F5.6, ISO100.
You don't want to see it - dark and bad.
;-(

But I tried to use the flash in "manual mode" with 1/4 Power - and ahhhh - there were light.
;-)

The photo was made without P-TTL!
Maybe the P-TTL mode is not working right on the K1?
As someone have already pointed out that using spot vs center-weigh metering makes some difference affect the ambient light portion and the change of FEC affecting the flash light portion on the subject. The fact that you can change the flash light not only by its strength but also by the spread and angle where it comes from makes this flash photography more art than science. I know you have the newer Pentax flash with LED front light, which can be used as catch-light to soften the shadow casted by the swivel-head (if it is tilled at an angle). Needless to say, I think you are on your way to experience the art of flash photography, enjoy!!

Last edited by aleonx3; 12-21-2016 at 12:04 PM.
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