Newbie - What ISO setting do you K-1 shooters use?

noelpolar · 01-26-2017, 04:50 PM - **4 Likes**

Given all the variables to this question, for the 11x14 print size you mention as the largest, one really just have to do an excerise for yourself to determine..... but it will be a lot higher then you think. When pushed, using DXO prime noise reduction and Piccure gives me another stop or so of usable iso.

iso 3,200

Last edited by noelpolar; 01-26-2017 at 05:00 PM.

derekkite · 01-26-2017, 04:56 PM

As someone above says, it depends. I got a surprisingly good shot yesterday at 6400.

**ivanvernon** · 01-26-2017, 04:57 PM

Inside with flash: I use manual flash, so I set aperture at 8.0, ISO at 100, and shutter at 1/160, and flash at 1/4 power. Then I take the flash power up or down to get the desired exposure. If needed, I would increase ISO one step at a time to reach desired exposure.

Outside: I set desired aperture first, then shutter, and ISO at 100. I may increase ISO setting in steps up to around 800 in dark conditions to get the desired exposure. Desired shutter and aperture depends on desired artistic effect bokeh, etc.

Hope this helps.

**darylk** · 01-26-2017, 07:19 PM

For general shooting (family, etc.), I have the auto ISO set to max out at 12800 and haven't been disappointed.

The Squirrel Mafia · 01-26-2017, 07:28 PM

I don't have a K-1, but if I did, I'd have no problem setting the auto ISO all the way to 25600 & use 51200 in a pinch.

I've played with several high ISO K-1 RAW files & they clean up nicely. They have a nice pleasant grain as the ISO climbs.

I have the auto ISO set from 100-12800 on my K-50, but I try not to go past 6400.

**eaglem** · 01-26-2017, 08:48 PM

Originally posted by noelpolar

Given all the variables to this question, for the 11x14 print size you mention as the largest, one really just have to do an excerise for yourself to determine..... but it will be a lot higher then you think. When pushed, using DXO prime noise reduction and Piccure gives me another stop or so of usable iso.

iso 3,200

One very excellent shot.

leekil · 01-26-2017, 10:38 PM

I generally use ISO up to 6400 normally, but if it is particularly dark, then I will go to 12800.

**lazarustx** · 01-27-2017, 07:59 AM

Excellent comments! Yes, I need to up my ISO numbers as I've been hugging 1/30, f5.6, an ISO 100-800 to tightly. I appreciate your comments! Thank you!

**rgknief60** · 01-27-2017, 05:33 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by amoringello

I shoot as low as necessary to get the image I need. A grainy image is better than a blurry one.

If you have a subject that does not move, you can also take several shots of your subject, and average them out in a program like Photoshop. That's partially why Pixel Shift images can be so clean with increased DR.

**lithedreamer** · 01-27-2017, 05:39 PM

Originally posted by rgknief60

If you have a subject that does not move, you can also take several shots of your subject, and average them out in a program like Photoshop. That's partially why Pixel Shift images can be so clean with increased DR.

Even a subject that does move, if you captured a burst and the motion isn't extreme. It just requires a bit more time to auto-align layers and blend things.

mrfredsporty · 01-28-2017, 04:00 AM

Originally posted by noelpolar

Given all the variables to this question, for the 11x14 print size you mention as the largest, one really just have to do an excerise for yourself to determine..... but it will be a lot higher then you think. When pushed, using DXO prime noise reduction and Piccure gives me another stop or so of usable iso.

iso 3,200

beautiful....

**kiwi_jono** · 01-30-2017, 01:15 PM

Following on from my last post, I was curious to see if was possible to get a usable image (or any size) at maximum ISO 200K out of the K-1...

The answer, with significant NR and reducing size significantly is sort of yes - if you really have to!

PP in RawTherapee:
ISO 200K with NR

**lithedreamer** · 01-30-2017, 01:23 PM

Originally posted by kiwi_jono

Following on from my last post, I was curious to see if was possible to get a usable image (or any size) at maximum ISO 200K out of the K-1...

The answer, with significant NR and reducing size significantly is yes - if you really have to!

PP in RawTherapee:
ISO 200K with NR

The Flickr metadata says it was taken at 512k ISO, not 200k? Also, I went to check out the full size image, and it's significantly smaller that full-size K-1 images usually are. Was that intentional? Anyway, I think the most common case for using such a high ISO would be scenes with shadow detail, and I don't really see much of that in the example photo.

**kiwi_jono** · 01-30-2017, 01:45 PM

Originally posted by lithedreamer

The Flickr metadata says it was taken at 512k ISO, not 200k? Also, I went to check out the full size image, and it's significantly smaller that full-size K-1 images usually are. Was that intentional? Anyway, I think the most common case for using such a high ISO would be scenes with shadow detail, and I don't really see much of that in the example photo.

Correct - sorry about that. I accidentally uploaded 51K one but fixed now (note: RawTherapee maxes indicated ISO at 65535 but its 200k). Yes it is deliberately reduced in size as it really is unusable in bigger sizes.

peterh337 · 02-01-2017, 10:53 PM

I shoot nearly everything in the TAV mode.

The K1 starts to make noise around ISO2000 where the K3 started to make a similar amount around ISO500, so the TAV mode works great.

Otherwise I sometimes use M mode.

Lightroom does a good job of noise removal. I normally use the feature above ISO800 which is where noise just becomes visible at the pixel level and if one didn't remove it one would just get pointlessly huge jpegs upon export.

01-26-2017, 04:57 PM	#18
ivanvernon Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Medina, OH Photos: Albums Posts: 7,224	Setting ISO Inside with flash: I use manual flash, so I set aperture at 8.0, ISO at 100, and shutter at 1/160, and flash at 1/4 power. Then I take the flash power up or down to get the desired exposure. If needed, I would increase ISO one step at a time to reach desired exposure. Outside: I set desired aperture first, then shutter, and ISO at 100. I may increase ISO setting in steps up to around 800 in dark conditions to get the desired exposure. Desired shutter and aperture depends on desired artistic effect bokeh, etc. Hope this helps.

01-30-2017, 01:15 PM	#27
kiwi_jono Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,437	Following on from my last post, I was curious to see if was possible to get a usable image (or any size) at maximum ISO 200K out of the K-1... The answer, with significant NR and reducing size significantly is sort of yes - if you really have to! PP in RawTherapee: ISO 200K with NR Last edited by kiwi_jono; 01-30-2017 at 01:43 PM.

01-30-2017, 01:45 PM	#29
kiwi_jono Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,437	Originally posted by lithedreamer The Flickr metadata says it was taken at 512k ISO, not 200k? Also, I went to check out the full size image, and it's significantly smaller that full-size K-1 images usually are. Was that intentional? Anyway, I think the most common case for using such a high ISO would be scenes with shadow detail, and I don't really see much of that in the example photo. Correct - sorry about that. I accidentally uploaded 51K one but fixed now (note: RawTherapee maxes indicated ISO at 65535 but its 200k). Yes it is deliberately reduced in size as it really is unusable in bigger sizes. Last edited by kiwi_jono; 01-30-2017 at 04:08 PM.

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01-26-2017, 04:50 PM - 4 Likes	#16
noelpolar Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Goolwa, SA Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,310	Given all the variables to this question, for the 11x14 print size you mention as the largest, one really just have to do an excerise for yourself to determine..... but it will be a lot higher then you think. When pushed, using DXO prime noise reduction and Piccure gives me another stop or so of usable iso. iso 3,200 Last edited by noelpolar; 01-26-2017 at 05:00 PM.

01-26-2017, 04:56 PM	#17
derekkite Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Nelson B.C. Posts: 3,782	As someone above says, it depends. I got a surprisingly good shot yesterday at 6400.

01-26-2017, 07:19 PM	#19
darylk Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Blue Hill, Nebraska Photos: Gallery Posts: 494	For general shooting (family, etc.), I have the auto ISO set to max out at 12800 and haven't been disappointed.

01-26-2017, 07:28 PM	#20
The Squirrel Mafia Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 3,054	I don't have a K-1, but if I did, I'd have no problem setting the auto ISO all the way to 25600 & use 51200 in a pinch. I've played with several high ISO K-1 RAW files & they clean up nicely. They have a nice pleasant grain as the ISO climbs. I have the auto ISO set from 100-12800 on my K-50, but I try not to go past 6400.

01-26-2017, 08:48 PM	#21
eaglem Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Perth Western Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 43,146	Originally posted by noelpolar Given all the variables to this question, for the 11x14 print size you mention as the largest, one really just have to do an excerise for yourself to determine..... but it will be a lot higher then you think. When pushed, using DXO prime noise reduction and Piccure gives me another stop or so of usable iso. iso 3,200 One very excellent shot.

01-26-2017, 10:38 PM	#22
leekil Pentaxian Join Date: May 2016 Photos: Albums Posts: 2,003	I generally use ISO up to 6400 normally, but if it is particularly dark, then I will go to 12800.

01-27-2017, 07:59 AM	#23
lazarustx Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Austin Tx Posts: 209 Original Poster	Excellent comments! Yes, I need to up my ISO numbers as I've been hugging 1/30, f5.6, an ISO 100-800 to tightly. I appreciate your comments! Thank you!

01-27-2017, 05:33 PM - 1 Like	#24
rgknief60 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2009 Photos: Gallery Posts: 980	Originally posted by amoringello I shoot as low as necessary to get the image I need. A grainy image is better than a blurry one. If you have a subject that does not move, you can also take several shots of your subject, and average them out in a program like Photoshop. That's partially why Pixel Shift images can be so clean with increased DR.

01-27-2017, 05:39 PM	#25
lithedreamer Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2013 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,799	Originally posted by rgknief60 If you have a subject that does not move, you can also take several shots of your subject, and average them out in a program like Photoshop. That's partially why Pixel Shift images can be so clean with increased DR. Even a subject that does move, if you captured a burst and the motion isn't extreme. It just requires a bit more time to auto-align layers and blend things.

01-28-2017, 04:00 AM	#26
mrfredsporty Forum Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 81	Originally posted by noelpolar Given all the variables to this question, for the 11x14 print size you mention as the largest, one really just have to do an excerise for yourself to determine..... but it will be a lot higher then you think. When pushed, using DXO prime noise reduction and Piccure gives me another stop or so of usable iso. iso 3,200 beautiful....

01-30-2017, 01:23 PM	#28
lithedreamer Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2013 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,799	Originally posted by kiwi_jono Following on from my last post, I was curious to see if was possible to get a usable image (or any size) at maximum ISO 200K out of the K-1... The answer, with significant NR and reducing size significantly is yes - if you really have to! PP in RawTherapee: ISO 200K with NR The Flickr metadata says it was taken at 512k ISO, not 200k? Also, I went to check out the full size image, and it's significantly smaller that full-size K-1 images usually are. Was that intentional? Anyway, I think the most common case for using such a high ISO would be scenes with shadow detail, and I don't really see much of that in the example photo.

02-01-2017, 10:53 PM	#30
peterh337 Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: London Posts: 573	I shoot nearly everything in the TAV mode. The K1 starts to make noise around ISO2000 where the K3 started to make a similar amount around ISO500, so the TAV mode works great. Otherwise I sometimes use M mode. Lightroom does a good job of noise removal. I normally use the feature above ISO800 which is where noise just becomes visible at the pixel level and if one didn't remove it one would just get pointlessly huge jpegs upon export.